I know everyone has diff. opinions so let's really find out whats the best way I and yourself can break in your motor.

I'm starting off with the D16z6 with the JDM zc pistons running Obd1, now i heard that i can break in my motor using the 90-93 acura integra ecu i think it's pg7 or something for the first 600 miles then switch and put in the p28 this way i can build up the compression is this right ?

 

Just take it easy for the first 600 miles. Doesn't matter what ECU you use. Don't rev aboce 3000-3500.... Then slowly increase revs over time.... Say the next 600 miles.... Slow break in process....

If you do highway driving flucuate the revs, don't hold at one certain speed for too long....

 

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

 

Correct me if i'm wrong, but, don't Honda engines come already broken-in already?
Whatever the case may be, i usually take it easy the first 3,000 miles on any car. Yes. Even on used cars. The reason i do it is so i can listen to the engine and odd noises it might have for warranty puposes. On new cars, depends on where the redline sits. But the norm is 3,000 miles.

 

3000 miles wow guess i'll drive to cali and back lol. I think i'll do 600 miles on a local highway making sure i don't rev over 3000 -3500 using the pg7 and then switching to the p28 ecu sound good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skelly ed666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just take it easy for the first 600 miles. Doesn't matter what ECU you use. Don't rev aboce 3000-3500.... Then slowly increase revs over time.... Say the next 600 miles.... Slow break in process....

If you do highway driving flucuate the revs, don't hold at one certain speed for too long....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good stuff! This is how my buddy broke in his H22 when he built it...worked like a charm...beat the **** out of it all last summer and the compression is still climbing

 

When I bought my brand spanking new Integra, they told me not to go over 65 on the freeway and no hard acceleration/braking for the first 1000 miles. I did that and the car runs great till this day.

 

Jeff @ HMT builds his engines and rapes them the next hour. Some people say break it in like you will be running it. The rings typically seal in the first 30 min of driving..

Some guy did a big write up on it on the net somewhere. I Don't have the link though.

 

[QUOTE=crx_88_si]Jeff @ HMT builds his engines and rapes them the next hour. Some people say break it in like you will be running it. The rings typically seal in the first 30 min of driving..

Some guy did a big write up on it on the net somewhere. I Don't have the link though. [/QUOT

Next hour huh? How does he build his motor diff, from others i would like to know....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoRiCuA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=crx_88_si]Jeff @ HMT builds his engines and rapes them the next hour. Some people say break it in like you will be running it. The rings typically seal in the first 30 min of driving..

Some guy did a big write up on it on the net somewhere. I Don't have the link though. [/QUOT

Next hour huh? How does he build his motor diff, from others i would like to know.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he meant he dusent build his motors any differently, just that he believes a different method is adequate, a difference in opinion, like you said earlier. The best advice is as said, gentle driving for as long as you can bear, and vary the revs(no steady driving). At least thats what we told the guy whose '56 vette motor we just fully re-built.

 

Here it is http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Persoanlly I will try this method when I get to building my old a6 laying around. Simple build, cam, rods, and n2o. I'll need all the seal I can get with the abuse its going to get. Plus the hard breakin method makes sense, but like he even says, it's a very controversial topic. To each their own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here it is http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Persoanlly I will try this method when I get to building my old a6 laying around. Simple build, cam, rods, and n2o. I'll need all the seal I can get with the abuse its going to get. Plus the hard breakin method makes sense, but like he even says, it's a very controversial topic. To each their own. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i did the hard break in method. motor is running stronger then ever. 500 miles of granny driving is way to much for me.

 

I'll be following the easy break-in procedure when i get my b18c in my crx, because I have a brand new clutch that needs to be broken in for a few hundred miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll be following the easy break-in procedure when i get my b18c in my crx, because I have a brand new clutch that needs to be broken in for a few hundred miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here, (but no B18C though). Just installed a Stage 1 Exedy in my '91 and I'm driving it hella easy. Anyway, my sis bought a '97 Ford Explorer (SHUT UP) new and drove it from Washington, D.C. to California. After driving that distance and...ROFLMAO, at a constant 75mph....it never drove the same....and it never could "be driven" over 75mph. Oh well, it's an SUV and should never see speeds above 75 anyway. To make a "long" story short...she ended up having to pay dealer costs for a new (dunno if it's a used replacement) engine.

 

ok so now i know their are 2 methods, the easy and the hard. does either way help build up the compression?

 

http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...ic=12

 

I've been wondering about this too for my crx

b18c1
total seal rings
ctr cams
.20 milled head
64mm throttle body
pnp head
port matched head to intake manifold, header, and throttle body
im running p28 ecu chipped by ih8ricerz

i figured i would run it between 3 - 5k for the first 100 miles. Then im just going to drive like i usually do. The total seal rings should ******* kick but i hope.

DEF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4crx4me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...ic=12</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would never follow that method listed. Especially the fact that it says change your oil after 500 miles, and that changing the filter isnt necessary?!? wtf is that? I'm dropping my pan, cleaning it out, changing my oil and filter after the first time I run the car, **** leaving metal shavings/debris floating around in my motor for hundreds of miles. I do think it brings up an issue about the people who do have brand new clutches...I'm not sure how I would go about breaking in my motor with that but my a6 will be re-using the clutch I'm on now so no prob there, I'll also be using Total Seal rings, heard good things.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skelly ed666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just take it easy for the first 600 miles. Doesn't matter what ECU you use. Don't rev aboce 3000-3500.... Then slowly increase revs over time.... Say the next 600 miles.... Slow break in process....

If you do highway driving flucuate the revs, don't hold at one certain speed for too long....</TD></TR></TABLE>



I did the same thing. I changed oil every 400 miles until it was clean, then I considered it broken in.

 

This is how i'm going to do it,but i need to know if you guys ever heard of this:

Before i actually put the spark plugs in am i suppose to drop a cap full of oil or tranny fluid into the hole of each spark plug then put the spark plugs in?

and also am i suppose to let the oil pressure build up at the oil pump b4 i crank it? this is all hopefully going down later on in the day,Today i hope it starts with no problem

 

Beat the **** out of it. The way you break it in is the way its going to run in the long run.

 

i've heard a lot more info lately on letting it idle for 20-30 minuted to seat the bearings and then revving the **** out of it, running it hard, because if you spin a bearing or something breaks, it might as well go out now, than in 1000 miles right?

but i dunno personally how i'd break in an engine...probably have some spare money before i build one too..hah, always a good idea to think ahead.

 

Theres no point in switching ecu's. Whatever compression you have is what is already there.
As for break in take it easy the first 500 miles or so, change the oil and your good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blah13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here it is http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Persoanlly I will try this method when I get to building my old a6 laying around. Simple build, cam, rods, and n2o. I'll need all the seal I can get with the abuse its going to get. Plus the hard breakin method makes sense, but like he even says, it's a very controversial topic. To each their own. </TD></TR></TABLE>


That's great... for race engines. Sure - it seals the rings, but it does nothing for the long tear wear in between the surface of the ring and cylinder wall.

 

Update on my slow break in process, I'm at 612 miles never reved over 4000rpm and did lot's of downshifting to build up that compression. I do a compression check yesterday at work and this is what follows:
1st cylinder=180
2nd cylinder=160
3rd cylinder=180