Alright...think I'm going to go w/ HONDATA now while I rebuild my motor. I have FMAX turbo (two extra injector crap). What parts do you guys think I'll need? Right now..this is what I have in mind

JE PISTONS
Eagle Rods
A build head that I'm getting from a friend of mine (pnp..blah blah blah).
RC550

I'm thinking about getting Honda 4b (w/ all the goodies)..but what goodies do I really need to get? I'm so confused when I went to the website...any help would do!!

Jeff-

 

get rid of the 2 injector crap and get 4 550cc RCs w/ and AEM fuel rail, AEM fpr, Walbro intank fuel pump, eagle sleeves, and think about your tranny...quaife? new clutch?

 

bah for the money of the hondata 4b you could get a speed pro bank system.....
also, i know someone who can get you eagle rods shipped to your door for $325. email me immy@home.com if you are interested.



[Modified by immortal, 4:28 PM 11/6/2001]

 

i have clutch specialties stage 2 on it...it can hold up to 300 torque so i think that can last me for a while..

Jeff-

 

How do you like that clutch? Decent feel, not too stiff but grabs hard? Let me know, thanx.

 

feels like stock but grab like a ****

Jeff-

 

**** yeah that is what I like dude!!!

 

What can you get the speed pro bank to bank system for? Including tuning and installation??

 

just a little bumpy bump to tha top

 

how much is a hondata?

 

Bringing this back on topic:
JE pistons
Eagle Rods
PnP head...I'd second guess that...but whatever...
RC 550

with all of that, get hondata stage 2b, unless you really see yourself dyno-tuning a lot. With stage 2+boost, the ECU will be able to read conditions under boost, but you will not be able to custom tailor (ie. burn new settings) unless you go to stage 4b. For your set-up and goals, 2b and a GM MAP sensor should be enough...for now. and if its not, you can always upgrade.

Tom
(o yeah, when you do get the hondata, im first in line for your v-afc)

 

haha....now i'm debating if i should go w/ hondata or power fc...seems like power fc would be the right choice for me since I want to keep my AVC-R (to replace where I put my VAFC) and yes..you get the first dip when it's available

Jeff-

 

I haven't followed you planning, but what does the Power-fc have to do with you keeping your AVC-R? Why wouldn't you ba able to use the AVC-R if you went with the Hondata?

 

well, i could still use the AVC-R on hondata..but why? you can tune your boost on hondata....well, either or really don't matter because I will be using my AVC-R as my boost reading (dont' have boost gauge) anyway..

Jeff-

 

I think you have something confused. Hondata does not include a boost controller.

 

The AVC-R looses it's gear based boost control when controlled by the Power FC! I know this because I have setup (3) P-FC with boost control kits. The P-FC also does not have a commercial datalogging program; the tuning tables while using the hand-held programmer aren't as fine as the Hondata, Speedpro,...; setting the base turbo map on a P-FC is a long and tedious process; ...

Hondata, Speedpro or Haltech would be a better choice!

 

The AVC-R uses the Vehicle Speed Sensor and ignition wire to guess the gear you're in. How does the Power-FC affect these that the AVC-R wouldn't be able to use them?

 

Id get the 2b (I can get it for like $565 shipped) and find a good dyno and definately some 550ccs. When using hondata you do not need to really update the MAP til you get over a bar.

 

Dirtylude.. because the Power FC controls some much other stuff it can not control all of the features of the AVC-R. If a user wants to keep the gear based boost control the AVC-R would have to be used as a stand alone when used with the P-FC. We tried this forever on (2) FD3S RX-7's and a turbo CTR. When we called AP engineering they said "Gear based boost control is NOT available when the P-FC is used to control boost".

 

Hondata says you need the GM map sensor over 11psi. You are going to need an OBD1 ECU and harness too.

 

you don't really need it unless you boost any higher then that.

 

really, thought it was 1 bar when it was needed, my bad