APEX worldsport coilovers
anyone runnin the apex"world sport" coilovers on a 90-93 accord ?
i'm running them on a man trans , cpe with batt in the trunk and they ride like ***
the spring rates are for a 94-97 accord they told me,but basically they implied that i did something wrong instead of the springs being too stiff -
anyone else got these things?
i'm running them on a man trans , cpe with batt in the trunk and they ride like ***
the spring rates are for a 94-97 accord they told me,but basically they implied that i did something wrong instead of the springs being too stiff -
anyone else got these things?
I just checked out your bio. You've gotta post some pics of your gauge cluster.
Was the 11" wagon rotor/caliper conversion a direct bolt on? I guess you used the stock knuckle and used the entire hub assembly of the wagon?
Was the 11" wagon rotor/caliper conversion a direct bolt on? I guess you used the stock knuckle and used the entire hub assembly of the wagon?
i've actually been eyeing the World Sport coilovers myself... but i don't know much about them...
anyone know of a good place to order from (inexpensive)... i do remember seeing a set online for $819, but i can't seem to remember where i saw it...
anyone know of a good place to order from (inexpensive)... i do remember seeing a set online for $819, but i can't seem to remember where i saw it...
sorry - i didnt really go into detail on how much these things suck - the ride up front was so stiff that both wheels up front actually bounced on a mild exit ramp from one small bump,i called them and they said it was impossible to give me the spring rates because they didnt have that information available to them,the person i spoke with even called eibach and ordered new springs for his own car because he didnt like them either , what kind of product is that?
update:last night i put my ground control front springs on and its at least safe to drive now and handles worlds better,before it would plow into every turn because it was to stiff up front now it at least sticks to the road , but still gets bouncy as hell on the highway ,i'm gonna call again today but i'm a little upset that i have ground control springs on a 900.00 suspension set-up
i bought the best set-up that i could find for my car thinking it would be the "best"
then it sucks and they dont even want to help me out with technical info or anything so that i can fix the problem
what suspension setups are you guys running ?
hittn accord - i saw your car at summit pt,do you like the susp tech sway bars ?
any help would be appreciated guys , i want good handling but at the same time i cant bounce all the way to work everyday
thanks
update:last night i put my ground control front springs on and its at least safe to drive now and handles worlds better,before it would plow into every turn because it was to stiff up front now it at least sticks to the road , but still gets bouncy as hell on the highway ,i'm gonna call again today but i'm a little upset that i have ground control springs on a 900.00 suspension set-up
i bought the best set-up that i could find for my car thinking it would be the "best"
then it sucks and they dont even want to help me out with technical info or anything so that i can fix the problem
what suspension setups are you guys running ?
hittn accord - i saw your car at summit pt,do you like the susp tech sway bars ?
any help would be appreciated guys , i want good handling but at the same time i cant bounce all the way to work everyday
thanks
well I run the Truechoice stage 2 setup and love it, even though my koni's stuck at full stiff. They use GC coilovers with Koni shocks
my spring rate is 300 front amd 350 rear
these springs you bought sound like nothing but a bunch of crap if you ask me especially if they don't even know the spring rates
don't be upset with GC springs because they are manufactured by Eibach for GC and in my opinion are worth the money
what kind of shocks and struts are you running? this makes a difference
yes I love the rear sway bar made a big difference in bringing the *** end of car around in corners
did i talk to you at the track? sorry if I don't remember it?
my spring rate is 300 front amd 350 rear
these springs you bought sound like nothing but a bunch of crap if you ask me especially if they don't even know the spring rates
don't be upset with GC springs because they are manufactured by Eibach for GC and in my opinion are worth the money
what kind of shocks and struts are you running? this makes a difference
yes I love the rear sway bar made a big difference in bringing the *** end of car around in corners
did i talk to you at the track? sorry if I don't remember it?
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The "best" setup for your car would be to research what shocks and spring rates/length are going to work for what you want to do with your car. Obviously if you race you're going to want higher rates and find a front/rear bias that dials out or amplifies any handling characteristics you like or don't like. Usually for F/F cars you want a higher spring rate in the rear and a fat anti roll bar to reduce understeer. If you just want a lowered car that rides nice, get low rates and have the softer springs in the rear. It will push like a bitch but at least it'll ride mostly like stock. With shocks you have to choose between non, single, double, or self adjusting and make sure they're valved to handle your spring rates. Pre-packaged coilover sets aren't going to make everyone (if anyone) happy.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 9:49 AM 11/7/2001]
[Modified by 4doorH22, 9:49 AM 11/7/2001]
yeah the wagon brakes are a direct swap with the calipers , brkts , and rotors only
i did stainless lines and oem pads for now but with the rear disc swap i hardly get brake fade even after doing a couple runs in the evening around the backroods in the mountains. let me know if you have any trouble -
also the calipers are the same part number as the type r calipers and prelude v-tec calipers so if you wanna go crazy i hear the nsx calipers bolt right on to the prelude so they should work on ours also, i'll let ya know i'm looking for a pair right now -
i gotta take a whole rack of pictures of my car i just dont have time , and i'm orking on a hybrid speedo to match the other gauges but in mph, so i'll let ya know and try to post some pics
i did stainless lines and oem pads for now but with the rear disc swap i hardly get brake fade even after doing a couple runs in the evening around the backroods in the mountains. let me know if you have any trouble -
also the calipers are the same part number as the type r calipers and prelude v-tec calipers so if you wanna go crazy i hear the nsx calipers bolt right on to the prelude so they should work on ours also, i'll let ya know i'm looking for a pair right now -
i gotta take a whole rack of pictures of my car i just dont have time , and i'm orking on a hybrid speedo to match the other gauges but in mph, so i'll let ya know and try to post some pics
they rode way too stiff,too stiff to even handle good
they wouldnt give me the spring rates,they said they didnt have that info
what kind of company doesnt have tech info for spring rates?
what is your suspension setup? your car seemed to be doing quite well at summit this weekend, thanks
they wouldnt give me the spring rates,they said they didnt have that info
what kind of company doesnt have tech info for spring rates?
what is your suspension setup? your car seemed to be doing quite well at summit this weekend, thanks
Right now I'm running Bilstein (self-adjusting) Sport shocks and out-of-the-box H&R Sport springs. The ride is awesome, but the car is WAY undersprung (bottoms out and rubs) and is partial to extreme understeer. I've got 9" x 2-1/4" Eibach ERS springs and Koni adjustable sleeves to install this weekend. I've gone with 400 lbs front and 450 rear. Very similar to Morgan's (urbanlegend21) setup but 100 lbs higher to account for the heavier engine. Ride quality is going to go down a notch, but the handling should be awesome.
PS urbanlegend21 Morgan "Hittin" Accord listed his Truechoice Phase 2 suspesion specs above.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 10:02 AM 11/7/2001]
PS urbanlegend21 Morgan "Hittin" Accord listed his Truechoice Phase 2 suspesion specs above.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 10:02 AM 11/7/2001]
wow, I never realized that i must have the highest spring rate on here... the old Skunkworks coilovers are 500 / corner... and the rear is way too stiff in my opinion... guess i'll be looking to Truechoice to rebuild and custom revalve my Koni adjustables... anyone have a good contact over at TrueChoice that you all have dealt with? I just want to insure transparent communication between TrueChoice and me...
i dealt with Steve but just got off the phone with Mason........ they are all very informative and can help you out, I have been to their shop and was fully impressed on how they run their show
man-thanks alot guys , that helps so much
morgan-i wasnt bitching about gc coilovers i was bitchin about having to use those springs on my apex coilovers and having 2 spring paperweights - just wanted to clear that up , also what do you guys think of the kyb agx's? anyone run them ?
also are you guys running a front sway bar or not , i see alot of autocross guys running bir rear,no front sway bar- any thoughts on that ?
morgan-i wasnt bitching about gc coilovers i was bitchin about having to use those springs on my apex coilovers and having 2 spring paperweights - just wanted to clear that up , also what do you guys think of the kyb agx's? anyone run them ?
also are you guys running a front sway bar or not , i see alot of autocross guys running bir rear,no front sway bar- any thoughts on that ?
ok sorry about that I misunderstood your comment..... my bad
i don't really know any first hand experience with the KYB's but they tend to be a good street/track shock as far as I know
front sway bars on our cars promotes understeer
i don't really know any first hand experience with the KYB's but they tend to be a good street/track shock as far as I know
front sway bars on our cars promotes understeer
KYB AGXs are good. Yellowcorn Mike ('99 Si) and honda318dx Corey (4g Prelude VTEC) run them. They're fast guys and they like the AGXs. The shocks are cheap but not rebuildable. If you get something like a Koni or Bilstein, it'll be the last shock you could ever buy because they have lifetime warranties and are rebuildable. You do have to pay for custom valving though.
here is what Steve from Truechoice sent me a couple of weeks ago when asked about rebuild/revalve of Konis:
Corey also is changing his suspension setup before the racing season to because his cars suspension sucks for how hard he runs on the track......scary thought for when he gets a good setup
Sorry for the delay, I was out again. The cost depends on the shock, but the series used in Hondas is simpler and costs $85 for a rebuild vs $125 for others. A revalve is usually $10-15 more because it requires swapping out parts not included in a rebuild. If your friend has an idea of what spring rates he wants, we could match them to the correct valves. By the way, we offer a 10% discount till the end of the year on shock rebuild and revalves, so it's a good time to send them in. I'm glad you like your kit!
Steve
Steve
Run the stock front sway/anti roll bar for daily driving for increased roll stiffness on the street. You don't want or need an aftermarket front sway. Understeer, plowing, and pushing are all the same thing. Some people even disconnet their front sway for autocross events.
The rule of thumb is:
Front: softer springs/thinner sway bar = reduced understeer
Rear: stiffer springs/thicker sway bar = reduced understeer
The rule of thumb is:
Front: softer springs/thinner sway bar = reduced understeer
Rear: stiffer springs/thicker sway bar = reduced understeer
HITTN- with the rates 300 and 350 does your car get bouncy at all?
can you get just the st rear sway bar ?
also as i lower the car more is it increasing the dampening rate of the shock?
i dont know what style shocks i have on the apex units and guess who cant give me a technical answer on that one either...............apex sucks ****
can you get just the st rear sway bar ?
also as i lower the car more is it increasing the dampening rate of the shock?
i dont know what style shocks i have on the apex units and guess who cant give me a technical answer on that one either...............apex sucks ****
you know it really isn't all that bouncy at all unless I am at full stiff on the shocks, and even then it is pretty light
yes you can get just the rear bar for your car: try NOPI
you obvioiusly got some kind of bad deal through APEX and I would start complaining a lot there is no excuse for selling a product and not knowing anything about it
yes you can get just the rear bar for your car: try NOPI
you obvioiusly got some kind of bad deal through APEX and I would start complaining a lot there is no excuse for selling a product and not knowing anything about it
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