I know everybody says with this conversion that you just run the obd0 with resistor box and it should plug and play, but can anybody give feedback who has DONE this??

The reason is that I have made the conversion with jumper harness from obd0 engine to obd1 ECU and have fire to the injectors, the dizzy is correct after some hassle as I used the DIstributor King non-OEM with the odd color combo. Car not catching on start up but wanting to fire and occasionally will hold a 500 rpm erratic idle and then die with a continuous blinking CEL.

Traced all the wires through to the sensors thru the jumper harness and to the ecu and they are correct, any ideas???

 

Running the obd0 injectors with a resistor box is what you want.. Count how many times the cel blinks.. Dont forget to jump the service connector to see the cel codes..

 

yea, done that the puzzlong part is that it just gives a steady blinking light, NOT a cel code 1

the ecu checked out ok so at least i didnt burn the board or anything

i think it may be the dizzy is bad so will have buddy check that on monday

thanks, all

 

keep me updated on this. thanks

 

when you look up dizzy problems in search function you sure see a lot of sh== and seems hard to test them

the dizzy king wire codes are not correct but if you use the manual you can at least get the wires right which first they were not on my car

i wonder if the igniter could be bad, or some such and will at least try to test it even if it might not be until tuesday - making a junkyard run hoping to get a hood lattch for the 87 crx which is good to go xpt roll cage.............

 

The Honda ECU requires high impedance to keep from frying injector drivers. There is a difference in idle and in transient AFRS between high impedance injectors and low impedance injectors + resistor box on the same ECU, but most wouldn't know it without a wideband. For practical purposes, run what you have on hand.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruby civic II &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have made the conversion with jumper harness from obd0 engine to obd1 ECU and have fire to the injectors, the dizzy is correct after some hassle as I used the DIstributor King non-OEM with the odd color combo. Car not catching on start up but wanting to fire and occasionally will hold a 500 rpm erratic idle and then die with a continuous blinking CEL.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I went through this today... for the fourteenth time in the last six months. You have one of two things going on. You either have distributor pins mis-pinned to the wrong ECU pins, pins meant for one of the other dizzy sensors (OBD1 B11-B16 are all dizzy sensors). This can create a situation where you get a very dim pulse on a noid light/test light across the injector plugs, along with a bunch of no fire and wacko code situations depending on how you have the dizzy mis-pinned. Alternately, you have the TDC sensor polarity reversed which causes poor base ignition as TDC is the sensor the ECU looks to for base and startup timing.

I have everything written down in my notebook outside in the car, or else I'd post specific dizzy to OBD1 ECU pinouts. Play with the dizzy pinouts, if you get stumped you can PM me (I won't remember to check this thread) or call my cell 828 713-7771 and ask me.




Modified by J. Davis at 1:59 AM 5/17/2004

 

thanks jd, for your help if you can as what you are saying goes along with my gut instinct on this

i assumed that the pin in from the dizzy to the plug would be correct by pin postion, and not by color code which is screwed on the Dizzy King dizzies which otherwise look very nice.

do you have a pin in diagram from the dizzy for obd 1 so i can double check since i was going off of the 1998 obd 2 manual and assuming no changes?

sent you pm in any case

 

No problems.

I did this untill i found some obd1 clips for a good price.

-Eric