VAFC.....VTEC Engagement Question???
Okay, I just installed me VAFC. I have left everything at 0% correction so that it would run like stock. But I want to bring my VTEC Engagement down a little so that when I shift I can be back in VTEC.
I know this may sound Newbish or whatever....please dont flame.
I have searched and reread that manual that I have and it seems like it still crosses over at stock rpm (5500). I would like it to come in at ~4500
can someone give me settings on both the VTEC settings in the VAFC so that I can reach my goal.
Thanks
Jon
I know this may sound Newbish or whatever....please dont flame.
I have searched and reread that manual that I have and it seems like it still crosses over at stock rpm (5500). I would like it to come in at ~4500
can someone give me settings on both the VTEC settings in the VAFC so that I can reach my goal.
Thanks
Jon
Not flaming at all, but honeslty take it to get it tuned. Don't just mess with it yourself. Lowering your VTEC crossover may not help you at all, and will most likely hurt you without hitting a dyno to see where you gain/loose hp.
only problem is dyno tuning is very expensive out here. But can someone still show me how to do it. Just so that I know how to do it. Thanks
any other opinions...
thanks
jon
any other opinions...
thanks
jon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only problem is dyno tuning is very expensive out here.
Lowest is like 120 and hour
any other opinions
thanks
jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
And is that 120 dollars worth you blowing your motor up over? Just some food for thought. Nobody ever said tuning a car was cheap, and if they did, they were lying to you. If you don't want to spend the money having it tuned I'd say sell it and buy a "chip" which isn't as good.
Lowest is like 120 and hour
any other opinions
thanks
jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
And is that 120 dollars worth you blowing your motor up over? Just some food for thought. Nobody ever said tuning a car was cheap, and if they did, they were lying to you. If you don't want to spend the money having it tuned I'd say sell it and buy a "chip" which isn't as good.
Well besides dyno tuning it. Can anyone give me tips on tuning.
I dont have the money to Dyno now, but I would like to get the most out of it right now without jumping on the DYNO. Fine tuning will come when I get on the DYNO
Thanks
JOn
I dont have the money to Dyno now, but I would like to get the most out of it right now without jumping on the DYNO. Fine tuning will come when I get on the DYNO
Thanks
JOn
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only problem is dyno tuning is very expensive out here.
Lowest is like 120 and hour
any other opinions
thanks
jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's already been replied to. Keep posting it and I'll start deleting them.
Lowest is like 120 and hour
any other opinions
thanks
jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's already been replied to. Keep posting it and I'll start deleting them.
Save your money and then get it dynoed. i mean you could mess with it a lttile but if you blow your motor dont hold us responsible. Also what kinda motot is it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not flaming at all, but honeslty take it to get it tuned. Don't just mess with it yourself. Lowering your VTEC crossover may not help you at all, and will most likely hurt you without hitting a dyno to see where you gain/loose hp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just like ricey said man. $120 dollars to optimize a $200+ instrument is worth it. you could probably see a descent boost in power through out the power band and as much as 10 whp with some applications.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only problem is dyno tuning is very expensive out here. But can someone still show me how to do it. Just so that I know how to do it. Thanks
any other opinions...
thanks
jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
modifying cars is a hobby not a sport, and hobbies aren't free, if you can't afford the parts you might want to try this
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Save your money and then get it dynoed. i mean you could mess with it a lttile but if you blow your motor dont hold us responsible. Also what kinda motot is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
D16y8
D16y8
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well besides dyno tuning it. Can anyone give me tips on tuning.
I dont have the money to Dyno now, but I would like to get the most out of it right now without jumping on the DYNO. Fine tuning will come when I get on the DYNO
Thanks
JOn</TD></TR></TABLE>
you dont understand.
changing settings without know what to change will hurt your engine. it could blow it up if you dont know what you are doing wich you definatley dont.
a VAFC is a precision tool for tuning an engine. if you want it to be benifical you must take it to have tuned. if you just start playing with things you will not have any effect other than what you think is better and most times that is wrong.
so stop bitching about the cost and have it tuned, if you can drop money on a VAFC stop being a cheapass and dyno tune it.
I dont have the money to Dyno now, but I would like to get the most out of it right now without jumping on the DYNO. Fine tuning will come when I get on the DYNO
Thanks
JOn</TD></TR></TABLE>
you dont understand.
changing settings without know what to change will hurt your engine. it could blow it up if you dont know what you are doing wich you definatley dont.
a VAFC is a precision tool for tuning an engine. if you want it to be benifical you must take it to have tuned. if you just start playing with things you will not have any effect other than what you think is better and most times that is wrong.
so stop bitching about the cost and have it tuned, if you can drop money on a VAFC stop being a cheapass and dyno tune it.
WHy wouldnt dropping my VTEC Engagement help. I drove my cousins 95 civic and VTEC comes on way earlier. He shifts and is back into VTEC and he always walks away from me when were up top....(4th gear pulls)
Thanks
Jon
Thanks
Jon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHy wouldnt dropping my VTEC Engagement help. I drove my cousins 95 civic and VTEC comes on way earlier. He shifts and is back into VTEC and he always walks away from me when were up top....(4th gear pulls)
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
becuase you arent adding fuel down there to compensate for the extra air comming in. and it has been proven changing vtec by a margin that wide only hurts performance even after its been tuned. changing your vtec away from stock is usually only benifical a couple hundred RPM lower, nothing more on stock cam(s). even if it is lowered a few hundred rpm the only advantage is a smoother powerband, it dose not make any more power.
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
becuase you arent adding fuel down there to compensate for the extra air comming in. and it has been proven changing vtec by a margin that wide only hurts performance even after its been tuned. changing your vtec away from stock is usually only benifical a couple hundred RPM lower, nothing more on stock cam(s). even if it is lowered a few hundred rpm the only advantage is a smoother powerband, it dose not make any more power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Huggy Bear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just like ricey said man. $120 dollars to optimize a $200+ instrument is worth it. you could probably see a descent boost in power through out the power band and as much as 10 whp with some applications.
modifying cars is a hobby not a sport, and hobbies aren't free, if you can't afford the parts you might want to try this
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just like ricey said man. $120 dollars to optimize a $200+ instrument is worth it. you could probably see a descent boost in power through out the power band and as much as 10 whp with some applications.
modifying cars is a hobby not a sport, and hobbies aren't free, if you can't afford the parts you might want to try this
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then should I just leave it all alone until I can jump on a DYNO???
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, for the 4th time. dont touch it.
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, for the 4th time. dont touch it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then should I just leave it all alone until I can jump on a DYNO???
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just like I told you in the very first reply, yes.
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just like I told you in the very first reply, yes.
Here's what I would do.
Don't set your VTEC at 4500, the high cam doesn't make power at that RPM, Honda knows what they are doing
that's why the cam lobes don't switch over till later...
That being said, there are a few things you can do to get a little extra out of your engine before you get it tuned.
Don't alter your settings too much because you can potentially harm your engine.
I set my VTEC @ 5500 and corrected to +6% after VTEC on the wide throttle settings... I could feel a difference when I did this. However I am installing 450cc injectors with my turbo set up soon and I won't dyno it until after the turbo is installed.
Just be careful and don't expect a huge boost!
Don't set your VTEC at 4500, the high cam doesn't make power at that RPM, Honda knows what they are doing
that's why the cam lobes don't switch over till later...That being said, there are a few things you can do to get a little extra out of your engine before you get it tuned.
Don't alter your settings too much because you can potentially harm your engine.
I set my VTEC @ 5500 and corrected to +6% after VTEC on the wide throttle settings... I could feel a difference when I did this. However I am installing 450cc injectors with my turbo set up soon and I won't dyno it until after the turbo is installed.
Just be careful and don't expect a huge boost!
Well I will be doing a similiar setup with 450's. I am still waiting for misc turbo parts.
I just want to get a little more power. Thanks for the info.
Thanks
Jon
I just want to get a little more power. Thanks for the info.
Thanks
Jon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shadow103rd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I will be doing a similiar setup with 450's. I am still waiting for misc turbo parts.
I just want to get a little more power. Thanks for the info.
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but the first thing you will learn is that lowering the vtec point, in most cases, does not yeild a positive affect. Especially if you are doing this at home without dyno/tunning b/c you will **** up your fuel curve.
For Interest: When I got my motor dyno/tunned, my original engagement was at 4400 rpms. After tunning the crossover was changed to 5400 b/c thats where the readings were the best.
I just want to get a little more power. Thanks for the info.
Thanks
Jon</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but the first thing you will learn is that lowering the vtec point, in most cases, does not yeild a positive affect. Especially if you are doing this at home without dyno/tunning b/c you will **** up your fuel curve.
For Interest: When I got my motor dyno/tunned, my original engagement was at 4400 rpms. After tunning the crossover was changed to 5400 b/c thats where the readings were the best.
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