Alright here is my problem. I have a 91 integra ls special i striped the motor my self with my dads assistance. I had the block sleeved with darton sleeves 84 mm, je 84 mm pistons, eagle h beam rods, stock ls crank, all new bearings, new gsr oil pump al done to the block and on the head i have crower turbo/nitrious cams, ferrea valves, crower valve springs and titanium retainers, shunk 2 adj cam gears, bombs cold air intake, chikira tork step 4-2-1 header (small ports), and custom 2 1/4 exhaust all open pipeing with a glass pack and it splits to dual exhaust coming out the back with 2 x concept mufflers from summit. i put a bnm adj fuel pressure regulator on but i still have everyting else on the fuel system stock(fuel pressure is set at 38 idle and 45 wot). i ran it with teh rev limitor (stock ecu) at 6500 and i ran a 15.9 at 84.6 mph without spray (nos) and on spray i ran a 15.5 at 91.8 mph which is slow as hell, the mph isn't ad but the time is rediculous. i know i need to learn to launch better b/c my 60 ft time was 2.8 which sucks. i plan on redoing my suspension and getting my camber right so that i can get the traction i need. i also just chipped my ecu with a fuel curve chip and it takes out my rev limit so now i can take my car to 8000-8500 rpms but even so with 50-100 shot of nos i would expect my car to run low 14's high 13's but that is being optimistic. also my tach wants to drop to 0 while my car is running cold and it runs real ruff when i first get in my car. so my to problems are why is it so slo and why does mt ecu run ruff when the engine is cold? if you can help plzzz let me kno thanks

 

All I have to ask is, is it tuned? And if so, who tuned it, what kind of HP do you make ? Torque? What's the A/F ratio like?

Sounds like a LEGO build...

 

OK first of all a 2.8 60ft isn't gonna do it. You'll watch your ET go from a 15.5 to a 14.5 with a 2.2 60ft. Get some slicks and some suspension on it and if you can get 1.8-1.9 60fts you should be well in the 13 second area.
Don't just think that because you have a sleeved block with 84mm pistons your car will a lot faster. What compression are you running? I would recommend head work. Also you need to run the right fuel set-up to work with your cams, comp ratio etc etc. With a stock fuel system, you are probably leaning out.
As for why it's rough when it's cold. Hmmmm. Could be a lot of things.

 

1) 2.8 is horrible
2) 92 mph on bottle that whats stock gsr's trap

the Mph tells you right there that something is not right. You need to get tuned.

However I agree with the other guy that this sounds like a lego build. It seems to be a bunch of parts thrown together. A good setup consist of parts that work well together. Instead of spending $$ on sleeving the block I would have gotten a better header/exhuast ect...

This is yet another example of why the Ls should only be turboed.

On the bright side it looks like the car needs to be tuned.

 

you only made a .4 difference when you squeezed? it MUST be your driving or you aint doing it right.

ditch the all motor setup if you want some real power with the LS. turbo that bad boy.

 

u sure the n20 is installed right?

 

man that really sux, that launch doesnt sound to nice. i have a 94 ls and with just intake header and exhaust i ran a 15.4 no bullshit. i would say, go slap that **** on the dyno, and learn how to launch better. you will prolly run a mid 14 without spray im hopeing.

 

what is your compression ratio? and also those cams you have on there dont do much at all... crower 403's would have been a better pick IMO. and actually if i were going to go all motor with spray on a b18a/b i would have gotten the crower 404's at least and bumped the compression ratio up to maybe 11.0:1 at least...Im sure those cams do allright for when your spraying ... but i think 403s or 404s would put you at a better 1/4th for sure, and you can spray with those...just my 02 cents

 

Yeah i'd say do all of the above + dont forget a Nice Ingition system, to fire hot hot sparks to ignite that spray. Upgrade fuel/ignition and tune it to hell and yeah you Might be where u want. Oh also I thought turbo/Nitrous cams are barely more aggressive than stock? Try some 404's since u already got the springs/ret. to match. Good luck and dont give up i think im going to do a mild B20 build because I fould a P8R head! later..

edit: lol, thats FOUND a P8R


Modified by Darkane at 10:15 PM 5/13/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darkane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah i'd say do all of the above + dont forget a Nice Ingition system, to fire hot hot sparks to ignite that spray.

Oh also I thought turbo/Nitrous cams are barely more aggressive than stock? Try some 404's since u already got the springs/ret. to match. Good luck and dont give up i think im going to do a mild B20 build because I fould a P8R head! later..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why change ignition? The stock ignition can handle up to 400 WHP, which he is not even close to.

The "aggressive"-ness of the cam has nothing to do with it making power. When it comes to cams, especially with some type of forced induction, you don't want the valve closing too soon. If it did, any air that was rushed towards the valves and didn't make it, would be forced back into the intake manifold and create turbulence, thus being less efficient and not serving a good purpose. The turbo/nitrous cams are designed to prevent that from happening. Although, they cannot be just bolted in and expected to make good of them. Cams gears and tuning are necessary.

 

alright, tune it. work on your driving skills. and stop doing ricey **** like dual exhausts

 

I ran 15.9 with my bone stock 96 ls with 138k....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why change ignition? The stock ignition can handle up to 400 WHP, which he is not even close to.

The "aggressive"-ness of the cam has nothing to do with it making power. When it comes to cams, especially with some type of forced induction, you don't want the valve closing too soon. If it did, any air that was rushed towards the valves and didn't make it, would be forced back into the intake manifold and create turbulence, thus being less efficient and not serving a good purpose. The turbo/nitrous cams are designed to prevent that from happening. Although, they cannot be just bolted in and expected to make good of them. Cams gears and tuning are necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed but its always recommened not a must to get ignition for Nitrous and colder plugs.

edit: sorry forgot to add is it a dry or wet kit? the positioning of the nozzle on the intake tube has alot to do with atomization of the Nitorus properly aswell. Recomended 6-18inches if i remeber..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darkane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Agreed but its always recommened not a must to get ignition for Nitrous and colder plugs.

edit: sorry forgot to add is it a dry or wet kit? the positioning of the nozzle on the intake tube has alot to do with atomization of the Nitorus properly aswell. Recomended 6-18inches if i remeber..</TD></TR></TABLE>


Just making sure that people get an explination for things. I know that there are a lot of knowledgeable people here...but, sometimes, people will just throw out "Buy a stage III clutch!" There is always a reason for things, and most of the time it needs to be explained. After all, that's what this board is for. To give good information and explinations. It just tends to go sour sometimes.

 

yeah I know where you are coming from, I see alot of bogus info here. ah well trial and error I suppose.

 

man that's horrible, could've got crower 404's with bolt ons, b16 tranny with an 8lb flywheel and stage 2 clutch, tuned with an safc and you would be in the mid-low 14's all motor, easy.