I plan on putting new pads on my front brakes. How hard is it to do? is it pretty much easy once you take the old pads off? I never did it before so im just tryin to get some advice on how to do it or w/e. thanks

 

very easy take one of the caliper bolts off,then just slide it out so u can remove the pads,you might need a c-clamp to push the piston in.

then remove the old ones and replace them

Oh and get yourself a Chilton manual

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DRG Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Oh and get yourself a Chilton manual</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean helms?

 

Its not hard at all....with the right tools. One thing you may need is an impact screwdriver to remove the phillips head screws holding the rotor to the hub. You'll also need a C-clamp or the like to compress the piston back into the caliper housing.

 

Thank you everyone. Hope all goes well for me. I only got front pads cuz i only had 30 bucks and the rear was 35 so i got fronts for 25.

 

Very simple job , just remove the lower caliper bolt , pretty sure its a 12mm cant remember right this second. Then you wll lift up on the calliper allowing room for the old pads to slide out . Then take the new calliper and rub the the anti squeek lubricate on the back side of the pad. make sure you put it on the back side of the pad the side that does not touch the rotor. After you have done this to both new pads slide them back in to the clips and drop the caliper back down and bolt it down. Then move on to the other side and repeat the same procedure.

 

Get a Chilton's manual or a Helm's. It will tell you step by step with pictures so you know what to plan for and what you will need.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T.J. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very simple job , just remove the lower caliper bolt , pretty sure its a 12mm cant remember right this second. Then you wll lift up on the calliper allowing room for the old pads to slide out . Then take the new calliper and rub the the anti squeek lubricate on the back side of the pad. make sure you put it on the back side of the pad the side that does not touch the rotor. After you have done this to both new pads slide them back in to the clips and drop the caliper back down and bolt it down. Then move on to the other side and repeat the same procedure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And don't forget to take the cap off the fluid before pushing in the piston with the clamp.

 

i really think you should get the rotors off and have them machined. otherwise the pads will get screwed up really fast and you'll be in the same place again in a few months.

 

Negative. No signs of grooves, hot spots, or visible runout, resurfacing is not needed. What is recommended though is you bed them in for 200+ miles of regular driving before doing an emergency stop test.

 

just a quick note.

with my Hawk HP+S pads its recommended to break in the pads by doing several hard stops 5-6, then letting the brakes cool (no ebrake on)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DRG Performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh and get yourself a Chilton manual</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything you wanna know is in there. or Helms lol but definately pick one up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickatiah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i really think you should get the rotors off and have them machined. otherwise the pads will get screwed up really fast and you'll be in the same place again in a few months.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed. The rotors should either be replaced or turned when installing new pads.

 

the 5-6 quick stop method is the one used by most shops i've ever delt with but i believe the "Granny" method is best. less chance of hot spots. also make sure you put plenty of caliper grease on the back of the pads and the slides to help prevent squeaking

 

Okay so now i need to go out and get some caliper grease too. You can just flip the rotors around and use the other side? I didnt do it today...f'n rain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickatiah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 5-6 quick stop method is the one used by most shops i've ever delt with but i believe the "Granny" method is best.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Best for?? The 5-6 stop method is the only way to break in a performance pad / rotor combo. The reason for it is to heat them up quickly and transfer pad material onto the rotor. What this does is, after the break in period, not only are stoped you by friction from the pad and rotor mating, but also the 'tearing' of the molecules of the pad material being transfered to the rotor. That won't take place if there isn't pad material on the rotor from a proper break in.

 

How do you properly break in the brakes? sorry for being so dumb. never done my own brakes.

 

BUMP my last two questions

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93JDMHONDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you properly break in the brakes? sorry for being so dumb. never done my own brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like posted b4 its a 200+ mile just slowly stopping (grandma method), there is also a technique of doing 7-8 emergency style stops. where u break hard and fast. but id go with the grandma method. just use them normally for a good 200 miles trying to avoid hard breaking unless u have to.

 

Thanks...this has become a very helpful thread without any flamming. this may be a first

 

Werd....just bought new front pads today as well....might go out and put em on right now (5:30pm)....good info though

 

Drive up to about 50mph. Do 6-8 times, until you hit around 10mph, moderate braking.
Drive around for 15 minutes, little to no braking.
Back up to 50mph, slam on the breaks, until you hit around 10mph, 6-8 times, usually until you smell brakes, no not tires, brakes.
Cool 'em down, drive home, park it overnight.

The next day, you will have awesome brakes.

**** that grandma ****.

 

Aight....I just did mine....one question...
I had to loosen the banjo bolt on the caliper cause I couldn't push the piston in otherwise to fit it over the new pads. My brake light on my cluster comes on when I'm not braking. When I brake it goes off. Pedal feels a bit mushy too. Could this be cause I lost a bit of fluid loosening the banjo bolt? Should I just top it off?

 

don't push the fluid back up to the reservoir, use some vice grips to clamp the brake line(no to hard) then open the bleader b4 you colapse the pistons. other than that a brake job is very easy.

 

what i do is take the resivior cap off and use a pair of channel locks to compress the piston the put the cap back on. no air gets in the line this way. but its just my opinion. anyone with a better way hit it up im willing to try anything.

gnr sounds like u might need to bleed ur brakes cause u might have air in the lines