OBD-0 to OBD-1 Wiring Maddness
Car: 1990 OBD-0 Honda CRX Si
Put PR3 B16 In: Per Hasport's instructions I added 4 for VTEC. Pins A8 and C2 (Diagnol Count) had to be added, and pins B5 and B19 were cut and replaced with wiring for VTEC Pressure Switch and Knock Sensor. See this image for clarification.
Put in VAFC: When wiring the VAFC I believe the instructions cut the wire to the VTEC Pressure switch from the ECU. Instead now the VAFC gave the ECU a fake signal acting as the VTEC pressure switch.
Switching to OBD-1: When making my conversion harness I noticed the following. If you look at this image the VTEC Pressure switch is B5 Diagnol on the OBD-0 plug, but if we look at the diagnol conversion chart A16 goes to B5 for the Alternator? Also if we look at the image again B19 is where the OBD-0 knock sensor is, but if we look at the chart D10 goes to B19 for the Electronic Load Detector? I dont get how this all works out? Do I need to un-do the hasport wiring and hook the stock wires back up? Any Help?
EDIT: If it matters at all I am now going to be running Uberdata which allows you to disable knock and all VTEC activation requirments.
Put PR3 B16 In: Per Hasport's instructions I added 4 for VTEC. Pins A8 and C2 (Diagnol Count) had to be added, and pins B5 and B19 were cut and replaced with wiring for VTEC Pressure Switch and Knock Sensor. See this image for clarification.
Put in VAFC: When wiring the VAFC I believe the instructions cut the wire to the VTEC Pressure switch from the ECU. Instead now the VAFC gave the ECU a fake signal acting as the VTEC pressure switch.
Switching to OBD-1: When making my conversion harness I noticed the following. If you look at this image the VTEC Pressure switch is B5 Diagnol on the OBD-0 plug, but if we look at the diagnol conversion chart A16 goes to B5 for the Alternator? Also if we look at the image again B19 is where the OBD-0 knock sensor is, but if we look at the chart D10 goes to B19 for the Electronic Load Detector? I dont get how this all works out? Do I need to un-do the hasport wiring and hook the stock wires back up? Any Help?
EDIT: If it matters at all I am now going to be running Uberdata which allows you to disable knock and all VTEC activation requirments.
To make this easier:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Conversion Instructions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">| D10 | GRN/RED | ELD | electric load detector | -> B19
| A16 | WHT/GRN | ALT C | alternator | -> B5</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Conversion Instructions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">| D10 | GRN/RED | ELD | electric load detector | -> B19
| A16 | WHT/GRN | ALT C | alternator | -> B5</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the diagram that I used and works perfectly. It's easier to understand than the one you posted.
http://www.carsongarage.com/uploadfiles/obd0-1.htm
http://www.carsongarage.com/uploadfiles/obd0-1.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know if OBD-1 uses Alternator Control or Electronic Load Detection?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OBD1 uses both.
OBD1 uses both.
I figured it all out, I ran wires off of the OBD-1 side for alternator control and ELD to the cut wires that were still under the dash from the PR3 install. Thanks Everyone
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