Alright i was told that u can remove the egr system from a obd 1 h22 with the p13 ecu and it would not throw a CEL. My question is has anyone done this and did they get a noticable advantage or a noticable disadvantages. I am thinking of doing this on my turbo h22 in my accord. Any advise on this subject would be appreciated..

 

If you just block the EGR off and still leave it plugged in then no, you will not thow any codes. No there wasn't any noticeable changes in power but I'd rather not have exhaust fumes going through my engine a second time.

 

Lots of people say that you can block it off but when i did i got a CEL... My car is obd1 too,...so i'm not so sure if you can block it off but i can't apparently...

 

You did it wrong then. You block it off but leave it plugged in and you're fine, no CEL.

 

well i blocked it off and left it plugged in and i wasn't fine..

 

I blocked mine off and left it plugged and no CEL, either...

 

how would one go about blocking the egr on a h22a4?

 

Just take it off and cut out a plate from some sheet metal the same shape as the bottom of the EGR valve....Then just re-install it with the plate in-between...

 

If anyone is interested I'm trying to get rid of my EGR block off plate (i turned off the workaround for the OBDII) and I'll sell it out for $15 shipped. PM me if anyone is interested.

 

The 4th Gen OBD I's only have an EGR lift code, so you can remove the EGR from the manifold, block it, and leave the EGR plugged in 9vacuum and electrical) and you wont throw a code.

OBDII has an EGR flow code that the OBD1 4th Gens don't have. The ECU checks the MAP sensor to make sure the vacuum changes properly when EGR is activated. So the only way to get around a CEL on an OBDII is to kill the ECU backup power, or replace the ECU all together.

Here's my plate:

http://www.higginstribe.com/ga...2.jpg

 

all this talk about a plate..
save you the trouble plug it up with
quick steel....

 

DirtyLude sighting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just take it off and cut out a plate from some sheet metal the same shape as the bottom of the EGR valve....Then just re-install it with the plate in-between... </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is exactly what I did and I got a CEL... I understand why though...

 

works like a charm... no CEL... and helped my idle a bit...

 

So why would you do this just so you wouldnt be recirculating exhaust gas? And what about H23 same deal im guessing.

 

It's not really that big a deal. The EGR only opens during low RPM / low load. The main problem is that it heats up the intake, so that when it's not on, the intake is still pretty hot. The best thing to do is to block the passage in the block before it even gets to the intake runners.

Personaly the only reason I got rid of it was because my engine management doesn't control the EGR anyway, so it's just a waste sitting there.

 

plus...

after years of being exposed to carbon, the ports and/or valve get/s blocked or stuck either open or closed...

Mine was stuck open and causing idle issues... which were fixed after blocking it off...

 

im intrested in da plate and would buy it from you, but i dunno how to pm...lol