I thought Id buy another peice for the turbo setup. I looked around and researched a few things. Ill put this FPR on my car with 880s and Uberdata so no hacks or FMUs here. I guess the AEM is really a 1:1 ratio but under heavy loads it busts open? B&M is supposely not accurate.....and the rest of the fprs I found in these threads I couldnt find much extra input from ht. Ill leave this up to the FI pros Thanks

 

Aeromotive makes a nice 1:1 i believe the part # is 13109 and they are around $130

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g2turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aeromotive makes a nice 1:1 i believe the part # is 13109 and they are around $130</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks g2turbo; that seemed to be the one to get from the posts I read; but I also heard about a few comptech ones as well.

Could I just use an FPR gauge with any FPR? Like could I get the Aeromotive one and use a b&m gauge?

 

my paxton FPR worked great for me.

 

paxton, sx, aeromotive, those style ones are the best

 

do either of those bolt to the stock rail??

 

The rail I was going to use was the Datum1 rail. It will bolt up the b&m and the AEM one so I figure any aftermarket fpr will work!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00n'd Supra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">paxton, sx, aeromotive, those style ones are the best</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where is the cheapest place to buy one of things?
Post what one your running.
I want to order one of these maybe by tomorrow or the end of the week


Modified by jdmjerk at 5:23 PM 5/9/2004

 

http://store.summitracing.com/...13109

wont get much cheaper than that except used or wholesale

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA-MAX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do either of those bolt to the stock rail??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aeromotiv has a rail mount FPR out now for Hondas, their older style was too hefty to put on the rail due to the weight of it... You don't need to run stainless lines or anything with the rail mount new one, I'm gonna go that route for simplicity and sell my in-box 13109.


This regulator features:
* Adjustable from 30 to 70 psi
* Alcohol compatibility
* Provides two inlet ports and one return port
* 1/8 in. NPT guage port
* Reference boost and increased fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio from forced air induction powerplants



If you don't mind the fugly splash anodized look then get their new one and be happy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sol2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only basic difference between the 13109 or the 13101 and the "new" honda-specific FPR is that the new one (p/n 13116 for 1.6L or 13115 for 2.3L) can bolt onto the stock fuel rail.

also, aeromotive offers a compact EFI FPR (p/n 13105). This differs from the others in that it only has 1 inlet port and 1 return. The A 1000-6 has 2 inlets and 1 return, allowing for easier addition of a 2nd fuel rail with more injectors.

there is also no difference between what aeromotive calls a "injected bypass regulator" and a "adjustable fuel pressure regulator". They are all fuel pressure regulators, they just use the word "injected" to signify that its for EFI cars.

hope al the info is correct and understandable. thats what i got from Aeromotive on the phone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ill put this FPR on my car with 880s and Uberdata so no hacks or FMUs here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, dude your sig says Cheesefrog is your hero. Go ask Cheesefrog, Uberdata is a filthy hack, he's said so several times in the past. You've spent so much money on your setup, what the **** are you doing cheaping out now about the most vital part of it???

 

stock fpr and rail here...walbro 255 hp, 160# injectors, hondata...301 stock block 10#, going for 500 whp min this week w/this setup...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Uh, dude your sig says Cheesefrog is your hero. Go ask Cheesefrog, Uberdata is a filthy hack, he's said so several times in the past. You've spent so much money on your setup, what the **** are you doing cheaping out now about the most vital part of it??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know cheesefrog personally; I just give him props cause I really like his setup and the viper vid. Just because he doesnt like uberdata doesnt mean I wont like it. I like saving 1200 bucks and putting it elsewhere. uBerdata is getting better and better everyday and I have hope in it. Ive seen a gsr turbo go from 267whp to 302whp just off tuning. Im a very big uberdata fan and Ill back it up 100%; Ive seen the numbers and seen the outcome. If uberdata doesnt work out for me then ill fork out the extra later on. This post has nothing to do with ecu management though; thanks for your input.

Back to FPRs
Aeromotive seems to be the one? Agreed?
Thanks!

 

j davis is one of the biggest advocates of el uberdata, hes just messing with ya.

 

weldon also has a very good fpr.

 

anyone have a part number for that aeromotive that fits the honda rail?

 

i also used the aeromotive fpr....works great. I got it from jegs. I think i paid around $200 for everything including the stainless steel braided lines and aeromotiv fittings. I think the fpr alone was $130-150..sorry i cant remember

 

dont mean to get off topic, but boosted si, what happened with madavi

 

ive been told that the paxton, sx, and aeromotive are all made by the same company then just labeled diff...dont know how much truth there is to that though...ive used aeromotive on 3 diff cars and never had a problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">j davis is one of the biggest advocates of el uberdata, hes just messing with ya.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shows how much I know about uberdata....Im just sold on it and Im def. going to back it up until it prooves me wrong or someone around me

But he did go a good job of stiring me up lol hehe

 

I've never seen anyone have problems with the AEM as long as the fuel pressure is kept in check.

On the same note, I've seen 2 of them break under high fuel pressure (80+ psi).

I've had 2 of them myself and never had trouble at either high pressure (110+ psi...back in the good ole' FMU days ) and low pressure (~50 psi max with Hondata).

sonny

 

B&M has always worked fine for me. Stop reading stories on HT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hoosier Daddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B&M has always worked fine for me. Stop reading stories on HT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a fact that the b&m isnt a true 1:1 fpr, also for high hp, the stock fpr is a bottle neck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00n'd Supra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its a fact that the b&m isnt a true 1:1 fpr, also for high hp, the stock fpr is a bottle neck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, ****. What's the ratio? Maybe I should consider buying a new one before I get tuned.

 

ive broken 2 b&m's, and i have no experience with them being anything other than 1:1.