Here is a video of all my problems that ive been having any input will be appreciated....

New link

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
right click save as

Modified by Morhpeous at 11:17 PM 5/4/2004


Modified by Morhpeous at 11:28 PM 5/4/2004

 

sounds like an IAC valve...do you have a check engine light? We really need more info to know exactly what is going on, a video tells us sounds, but a lot of things sound the same. also why are you running w/out your intake connected? just curious why you would disconnect it...let us know things like that, then maybe we can tell you more.

 

i took the intake off cause i was checkign everything out but i just left it off to take the video to show bout the hose i have in there.... the iacv isnt even connected right now i was jsut testing otu a couple things i took out the IACV and put a peice of metal there to block off the mkanifold air... before i did anything it was doin same thing

 

Try this, when the car is cold start it and then put your finger in the TB and cover the lower hole in the TB. You should feel some suction. If not replace the fast idle thermal valve. If you feel suction when the car is cold, warm it up to where the radiator fans come on and check that same hole. If you feel suction replace the valve, if no suction then its something else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Morhpeous &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took the intake off cause i was checkign everything out but i just left it off to take the video to show bout the hose i have in there.... the iacv isnt even connected right now i was jsut testing otu a couple things i took out the IACV and put a peice of metal there to block off the mkanifold air... before i did anything it was doin same thing </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno, when your IACV is disconnected the car doesn't idle right, and right now you have a lot disconnected so there will be no way for you to pinpoint what it is with all that disconnected...you have to trouble shoot one at a time, because with certain thigns unplugged it runs funny, and you won't know if you fix or break something if it's running wrong, best thing is to run through a flow chart of how the idle is controlled and do those things one at a time, rather than take it all apart.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try this, when the car is cold start it and then put your finger in the TB and cover the lower hole in the TB. You should feel some suction. If not replace the fast idle thermal valve. If you feel suction when the car is cold, warm it up to where the radiator fans come on and check that same hole. If you feel suction replace the valve, if no suction then its something else. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a buddy show me this exact thoery when he was trying to get his car to run. I never followed up to see if it worked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try this, when the car is cold start it and then put your finger in the TB and cover the lower hole in the TB. You should feel some suction. If not replace the fast idle thermal valve. If you feel suction when the car is cold, warm it up to where the radiator fans come on and check that same hole. If you feel suction replace the valve, if no suction then its something else. </TD></TR></TABLE>

there is suction all the time when car is warm and cold, so u think the fast idle control valve is the problem?

i was reading hondatas web site and they say to keep it cooler you dont need these they said:

Optional for slightly more cooling effect. Not all manifolds have a cold idle valve. Bypass the heater hosing for the Cold Idle valve. Cut a gasket to fit between the Cold Idle Valve and manifold and refit. Alternatively replace the Cold Idle Valve with a flat blanking plate as per the diagram. This may cause the car to idle at a lower RPM for a minute or two when starting from cold. You may need to increase your idle speed by screwing the large (7mm) screw on top of the throttle body several turns counterclockwise. Once the manifold has been pushed back disconnect the hose that runs to the idle control valve and connect to the head as shown in the diagram. Remove the cold idle control valve and install the heatshield gasket. (Above image is for a B16A, other models will vary)

http://www.hondata.com/manuals....html

so im thinking of blocking these off like they suggested and then turn the idle key to see if that corrects the problem?

also im goin to check the voltage of my TPS sensor later on and make sure thats all correct but let me kno sum feed back abotu what hondatas website has

 

I still say you are doing way to much at one time to pin point the problem...but I hope you get it fixed. My advice to you is buy a helms manual, best 90 dollar object you will ever purchase for your car.

 

ok been throught it all, watch the begining of the video thats the only problem im having now when car is broguht to about 1800rpm it studders has anyone had thei problem.... lower then 1800 its fine and higher then 1800 its fine but whats wrong would could it be im thinking the guy who sold me the motor sold me a junk motor this is really pising me off

 

new link is up i shortened it and thats my only problem now the thing wit the idle surging at 1800rpm not lower or higher just at that spot

 

bump

 

well tony its me danny this is my name i joined today im gonna switch your p28 over to your stock single cam non vtec cx then will see what happens.

 

okay well i tired the stock computer which was the nonvtec computer and its still doing the same thing. any other ideas??

 

your running a p28 or worse on a h22?!!! that is running soo lean. is it chipped, plug a stock p13 in and see what happens.

 

I have a Hondata chipped P28 on there not stock