h22 stroker
im me please i can help you with that.and if you have the know how of putting one together it will save you a ton of money.
h22 stroked to a 2.6L w/ 5/8's deck plate
xs t67 bb w/nos pro race fogger will have dyno sheets very soon,waiting on some last minute parts.i am shooting for over 700+
h22 stroked to a 2.6L w/ 5/8's deck plate
xs t67 bb w/nos pro race fogger will have dyno sheets very soon,waiting on some last minute parts.i am shooting for over 700+
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS MIKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">R&D Dyno in Gardena, CA. CALL THEM!!!
http://www.rddyno.com
(310) 516-1003</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have to go w/ R&D Dyno myself. However, if it's going to be a street motor, I would not go beyond a 95mm stroke crank.
Modified by cpforyou at 11:01 AM 5/30/2004
http://www.rddyno.com
(310) 516-1003</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have to go w/ R&D Dyno myself. However, if it's going to be a street motor, I would not go beyond a 95mm stroke crank.
Modified by cpforyou at 11:01 AM 5/30/2004
and why is that.i have a 2.6L h22 w/5/8's deck plate
.not only do i have a hell of a stroke but i also have a very good r/r
and i built the motor
for longevity.
.the only thing that you have to change is the hood or run some kind of cowl induction which is cool to.
.not only do i have a hell of a stroke but i also have a very good r/r
and i built the motor
for longevity.
.the only thing that you have to change is the hood or run some kind of cowl induction which is cool to.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im me please i can help you with that.and if you have the know how of putting one together it will save you a ton of money.
h22 stroked to a 2.6L w/ 5/8's deck plate
xs t67 bb w/nos pro race fogger will have dyno sheets very soon,waiting on some last minute parts.i am shooting for over 700+
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can achieve that without a stroker kit. Regardless, sound very interesting.
Make sure u post the results.
h22 stroked to a 2.6L w/ 5/8's deck plate
xs t67 bb w/nos pro race fogger will have dyno sheets very soon,waiting on some last minute parts.i am shooting for over 700+
</TD></TR></TABLE>You can achieve that without a stroker kit. Regardless, sound very interesting.
Make sure u post the results.
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yes you sure can
but that rod will be trying to come thru the side of the block
if you get what i'm saying
.i have a really good r/r and a massive stroke
.it don't get any better than that,besides turbo
and nos
which i already have those to.i didn't want my motor to have a lot of stress on it? thats the only reason i did a deck plate
."really good r/r".
i would not doubt if this set up made 300 on just motor
,we will soon see.
but that rod will be trying to come thru the side of the block
if you get what i'm saying
.i have a really good r/r and a massive stroke
.it don't get any better than that,besides turbo
and nos
which i already have those to.i didn't want my motor to have a lot of stress on it? thats the only reason i did a deck plate
."really good r/r".i would not doubt if this set up made 300 on just motor
,we will soon see.
I stilll predict bearing and oil pump failure in your near future... Sounds like you may want to get used to it with that set up
It may be a track monster but a reliable street set up... Eh, Im gonna recomend buying a trailor...
It may be a track monster but a reliable street set up... Eh, Im gonna recomend buying a trailor...
you have the floor explain your self
.bearing and oil pump failure
.because i have a deckplate
,a longer stroke
,and one dam good r/r
,now you tell me where you get failure out of that and also how does that equal trailer.
.bearing and oil pump failure
.because i have a deckplate
,a longer stroke
,and one dam good r/r
,now you tell me where you get failure out of that and also how does that equal trailer.
r/r isnt the only thing you have to worry about... ever think about piston speed? ***** gona be crazy w/anything more than a 95mm stroke... hell a 95mm stroke has piston speeds to high to make crazy power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">r/r isnt the only thing you have to worry about... ever think about piston speed? ***** gona be crazy w/anything more than a 95mm stroke... hell a 95mm stroke has piston speeds to high to make crazy power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its nice when Imnot the only one who can see it
Its nice when Imnot the only one who can see it
WTF is r/r ratio????? Do you mean r/s ratio??
Regardless if you have a perfect r/s ratio, like jdogg said you have to worry about ultra high pistons speeds, extra sideloading of the cylinder walls, etc. The motor may last for a while and be reliable, but it's longevity won't be a quarter of a stock motor.
Regardless if you have a perfect r/s ratio, like jdogg said you have to worry about ultra high pistons speeds, extra sideloading of the cylinder walls, etc. The motor may last for a while and be reliable, but it's longevity won't be a quarter of a stock motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF is r/r ratio????? Do you mean r/s ratio??
Regardless if you have a perfect r/s ratio, like jdogg said you have to worry about ultra high pistons speeds, extra sideloading of the cylinder walls, etc. The motor may last for a while and be reliable, but it's longevity won't be a quarter of a stock motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Side load wont be too much of an issue with the deck plate, thats about the only up side of that type of set up... That and the fact that the dwell time at TDC will be slightly longer... But, as stated before... You can put a 40 inch rod in there and your still doing nothing to slow the outrageous piston speeds of a 101mm crank... All your doing with a deck plate and longer rod is softening the affects of piston speeds and increased angles of the huge stroke... Your not eliminating the problem, only softening the inevidable affects...
Like I said, you will be thrashing bearings on a regular basis, you will be shattering oil pump gears on a regular basis along with a few other little fun "hey, I didnt know that could happen" 's along the way...
Trailor shopping time
Regardless if you have a perfect r/s ratio, like jdogg said you have to worry about ultra high pistons speeds, extra sideloading of the cylinder walls, etc. The motor may last for a while and be reliable, but it's longevity won't be a quarter of a stock motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Side load wont be too much of an issue with the deck plate, thats about the only up side of that type of set up... That and the fact that the dwell time at TDC will be slightly longer... But, as stated before... You can put a 40 inch rod in there and your still doing nothing to slow the outrageous piston speeds of a 101mm crank... All your doing with a deck plate and longer rod is softening the affects of piston speeds and increased angles of the huge stroke... Your not eliminating the problem, only softening the inevidable affects...
Like I said, you will be thrashing bearings on a regular basis, you will be shattering oil pump gears on a regular basis along with a few other little fun "hey, I didnt know that could happen" 's along the way...
Trailor shopping time
my piston will dwell at tdc longer?
with a longer r/s ratio.now if my r/s was shorter
like say 1.40
the piston would start running away from the flame front,as to where a LONGER ROD AND LONGER STROKE WILL LET IT DWELL AT TDC LONGER
,just ask one of the pro's or look at smokey unick "legendary engine builder".he says fit the longest rod you can in a motor when stroking one
.sounds like you got your theorys mixed up,but hey we all learn from our mistakes.
with a longer r/s ratio.now if my r/s was shorter
like say 1.40
the piston would start running away from the flame front,as to where a LONGER ROD AND LONGER STROKE WILL LET IT DWELL AT TDC LONGER
,just ask one of the pro's or look at smokey unick "legendary engine builder".he says fit the longest rod you can in a motor when stroking one
.sounds like you got your theorys mixed up,but hey we all learn from our mistakes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but hey we all learn from our mistakes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hopefully you will...
Heres something to chew on... How many deck plate pro cars do you see out there?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hopefully you will...
Heres something to chew on... How many deck plate pro cars do you see out there?
you are aloud a .75 deck plate from what I remember... A few ran them a couple of years ago (AEBS is the only one I can remember) but they soon died out... Talk to Darren at R&D or Brad @ RLZ... Those guys both have a lot of big stroke knowledge...
Im telling you man, try not to look at this topic as people attacking what your doing... Look at it with an open mind... Theres a couple of good tips in this thread... Good luck to you
Im telling you man, try not to look at this topic as people attacking what your doing... Look at it with an open mind... Theres a couple of good tips in this thread... Good luck to you
ok my apologies.it was my under standing that they do not allow them anymore period."really don't know why" but thats how it is.
so your telling me a shorter r/s has less piston speed than a long r/s .how can that be.the longer stroke is doing more work in the same amount of time and has a better r/s so beating the bearings and oil pumps don't happen.i mean sure you cain't drive around on the street with a 700+ hatch all the time at those boost levels or the engine will self destruct.JUST LIKE A GSR OR TYPE-R exc. exc.
so your telling me a shorter r/s has less piston speed than a long r/s .how can that be.the longer stroke is doing more work in the same amount of time and has a better r/s so beating the bearings and oil pumps don't happen.i mean sure you cain't drive around on the street with a 700+ hatch all the time at those boost levels or the engine will self destruct.JUST LIKE A GSR OR TYPE-R exc. exc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok my apologies.it was my under standing that they do not allow them anymore period."really don't know why" but thats how it is.
so your telling me a shorter r/s has less piston speed than a long r/s .how can that be.the longer stroke is doing more work in the same amount of time and has a better r/s so beating the bearings and oil pumps don't happen.i mean sure you cain't drive around on the street with a 700+ hatch all the time at those boost levels or the engine will self destruct.JUST LIKE A GSR OR TYPE-R exc. exc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not 100% sure though about the rules regarding deck plates as of now... I know they were once allowed not too long ago. Not really sure about now, its been a while since I even bothered to look at the rules.
Im not saying that a shorter rod stock deck is the best thing in the world, geometrically speaking dweck plates make all the sense in the world but like I posted earlier... Its not a solution for these problems, its only going to soften the inevidable affects of the increased stroke and outrageous piston speeds...
so your telling me a shorter r/s has less piston speed than a long r/s .how can that be.the longer stroke is doing more work in the same amount of time and has a better r/s so beating the bearings and oil pumps don't happen.i mean sure you cain't drive around on the street with a 700+ hatch all the time at those boost levels or the engine will self destruct.JUST LIKE A GSR OR TYPE-R exc. exc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not 100% sure though about the rules regarding deck plates as of now... I know they were once allowed not too long ago. Not really sure about now, its been a while since I even bothered to look at the rules.
Im not saying that a shorter rod stock deck is the best thing in the world, geometrically speaking dweck plates make all the sense in the world but like I posted earlier... Its not a solution for these problems, its only going to soften the inevidable affects of the increased stroke and outrageous piston speeds...
all i am saying is the r/s puts less stress on a motor at high rpm.a b16 is a good example,now add a stroke and try to keep that r/s ratio and see what happens.
i built a oem parts ls/vtec back in the day,and that dam thing was a monster.but the r/s was 1.41 i drove it 1k miles and tore it back down,the bearings looked ok.but the dam cylinder walls were dam near egg shaped from the severe r/s ratio it had.hell it looked like it was trying to push the piston thru the side of the block.
i built a oem parts ls/vtec back in the day,and that dam thing was a monster.but the r/s was 1.41 i drove it 1k miles and tore it back down,the bearings looked ok.but the dam cylinder walls were dam near egg shaped from the severe r/s ratio it had.hell it looked like it was trying to push the piston thru the side of the block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1700anddroping »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so your telling me a shorter r/s has less piston speed than a long r/s .how can that be.the longer stroke is doing more work in the same amount of time .</TD></TR></TABLE>yes the longer stroke creates more velocity(for it to complete it's stroke in the same amount of time it needs to travel faster because it has to go further) which creates higher temps which creates more wear. pretty simple, just think about it for a few minutes. Either way i love what you're doin and keep your enthusiasm. Just know what you're in for.................................John
so your telling me a shorter r/s has less piston speed than a long r/s .how can that be.the longer stroke is doing more work in the same amount of time .</TD></TR></TABLE>yes the longer stroke creates more velocity(for it to complete it's stroke in the same amount of time it needs to travel faster because it has to go further) which creates higher temps which creates more wear. pretty simple, just think about it for a few minutes. Either way i love what you're doin and keep your enthusiasm. Just know what you're in for.................................John
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick Solis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Talk to Darren at R&D or Brad @ RLZ... Those guys both have a lot of big stroke knowledge...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS MIKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">R&D Dyno in Gardena, CA. CALL THEM!!!
http://www.rddyno.com
(310) 516-1003</TD></TR></TABLE>
to Darren!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMS MIKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">R&D Dyno in Gardena, CA. CALL THEM!!!
http://www.rddyno.com
(310) 516-1003</TD></TR></TABLE>
to Darren!
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jakeiscool
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Sep 27, 2007 01:36 PM




.why does that not suite your taste 
