I'm thinking it is either the main relay or the ignition of the car, I'm just not sure which is bad. My car starts fine when it is cold. When the car is warm after shut off, if I try to restart it right away, I can't the hear the main relay click and the fuel pump. I've to keep turning the ignition on and off until the main relay click. then it starts fine. It just started doing this, because it is getting hot outside. Anyone else has the same problem as me? I don't see any loose wires or anything. The car is a 92 civic VX. TIA.

 

too rich in hot temps. step on accel. pedal to open throttle plate to let more air in.

 

main relay

 

Im having the same problem.. is the main relay in the under-hood fusebox..? Should I just replace it?

 

bump.. opening the throttle plate didn't work for me.

 

the fuel pump relay might be going bad, it is located uder the dash on the driver side.

 

It is not too rich, the fuel pump is not coming on. I think I'm just going to replace the main relay and see what happens.

 

The Problem:

Problems starting the car, usually after a short run (when the interior is warm), though in bad cases the car may fail to start at any time. A classic time for the problem to occur is at the petrol station, or if you park for a minute to get something from a shop. If the car is parked for a long period, the interior usually has cooled enough for the joint to make contact again, and you won't notice a problem. As the cabin temperature is a major feature of this problem, it might appear worse on cold or rainy days when you have the heater running to clear the windows etc. Extremely cold temperatures can also cause the problem to be more apparent.

The engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the PGM-FI indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.

The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket. If you thump this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.

The Cause:

A dry joint in the PGM-FI main relay, causing an intermittent or no connection. This relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere!




The above pictures show two main relays, the grey one from a UK Civic VTi (left), and the black one from a JDM CRX-Si (right).

Below is a diagram of the PGM-FI system fitted to Honda's first 12v fuel injected engines, like the MK1 CRX, MK3 Civic GT, Ballade EXi etc. PGM-FI has constantly evolved, but this diagram shows you basically what the main relay does. It's function is the same in all Honda cars - to supply power to the fuel pump, and fuel-injection components.

 

Now for the repair:

You need a 10mm socket
Soldering gun & 10:40 Solder

1) locate the main relay (its right beside the hood latch release button)

2) recognoize that it says pgm-fi main relay on it as pictured above.

3) Your going to see a 10mm bolt and youre going to need a wrench because a socket wont be able to fit up in there.

4) After breaking the bolt loose your going to see a wiring harness. push the middle release button in the middle of the harness and then wiggle the edges and it will un do it's self

5) Now your going to haft to look for these..



Pull those apart and then look and the back of the relay and it should look like this



Now take the soldering gun and heat all of those joints up and then on each of the joints add a little bit of solder and make sure it comes out to a tip.

Let it sit for about 30 minutes and then go install it the same way you took it out

and

<FONT COLOR="red"><FONT SIZE="8">VIOLA</FONT></FONT>

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I'll check spelling and typo's later

Btw: The pictures above aren't mine.

 

Thanks for tech info. You read my mind. I'm going to make the repairs next week. Thanks Again Usdmdc2.

 

no problem bro....i fixed mine over 4 months ago and it hasnt did it since..

need help just PM me

 

Sweet, thanks for the posts. Sounds like a plan.

I had to re-solder the dry joints on the instrument cluster of my neon R/T a while back to get it working again. Seems like this happens to me a lot