I just dynoed my australian dc2r and the tuner said that the car was running too rich...
I read somewhere in this forum that we should aim for around 13 A/F ratio but my car is still below that after tuning
BTW my car has a JDM 4-1 header and 2.5 inch carsound cat...

o yeahhh I bought the same cat last week and it broke within a week... is it because the car was running rich? I hope it would be fine now....

what do u think guyz....

btw stock oz dc2r usually get 95-98 kw at the front wheels... but I got 114 before A/F tuning... which means around 15% increase from stock (so 141 -> around 160 kw at the engine) LOL I was so shocked
I was expecting around 105 with the header n cat...
anyway... I just hope the cat won't break again...

1 more thing... the guy said that I need to change my plugs bcoz after a few runs the graphs weren't smooth anymore... something like that... I wonder if that's true....

please tell me what u guyz think...
thanksss

 

what does kw translate into hp?

 

hi bszyen!

im really impressed with your dyno results considering the mods you done to your car.

i have a stock dc2 and will be happy with that power. please can you tell me where i can buy a 1998 JDM extractors and cat?

at them moment im working on my air filter. i want to keep the box but dunno what air filter i should fit inside the box.

i also live in melbourne, so im really happy to meet you.

please reply, thanks.

 

it should be 152.8 and 156.9 thats if Kw stands for kilwatts.

 

117? what you got a d16 in there or something

 

Your A/F curve looks like a typical ITR torque curve

 

what do u guyz think about A/F ratio... is it OK now?

Rguy : mannnn... It's a B18C7, better than yours hahaha j/k

kendogg: 1 kw = 1.34 hp... but the dyno in australia reads a lot lower compared to the states....
u guyz get around 165 hp on stock itr, right? ours get around 95 kw (which is around 127hp)
let's forget about that... and think about this... I get an increase of about 15% on stock ITR with a header, cat n air filter in stock box...
let's calculate this on USDM ITR, (15% * 165) + 165 = 189 hp
this is just a rough approximation, i'm not saying this is correct...
what do u guyz think...

forget about that.... what do u guyz think about A/F ratio... is it OK now?
HELP ME .... i dont want my cat to break againnnnnnn
i'm really worried everytime I take the car out

thanks


Modified by boszyen at 12:12 PM 5/2/2004

 

rich. you want it to be around 13.2:1-13.5:1(reliable) on a NA motor. Get a VAFC.

scott

 

where about you got the JDM 4-1 extractors from?
and what air filter are you using inside the box?

 

I got it from someone from clubrsx.com (Australian section)
I'm using a K&N air filter... search for replacement air filter for dc2... I can't remember the part no.
maybe someone else from this forum can help...
try searcing first...
btw... have u increased the ignition timing to 18.... if u haven't, try it !

scooter: I have a VAFC.... and the one on the graph is tuned...
I paid $200 to get it tuned, but it's still rich ???

 

thanks i got the K&N air filter product no after searching thru these forums. its E-2427.
what does increasing the ignition timing to 18 do bro?

 

it will increase the power n better fuel economy (bcoz of the better combustion)
i did not notice any difference with the fuel economy but i did notice the increase in power...

mine was set at 15 deg.... stock spec is 16 +- 2 .... (recommended fuel is premium unleaded)
I think 18 would be safe enough with 98RON such as optimaxx etc

search in this forum then try it...
u will feel the difference, trust me



edit:

u need a device to set it... u can get it at kmart for like $60...
or u can ask ur honda dealer to do it the next time u have ur car serviced

hey r u the one with the number plate 'IVTEC'?


Modified by boszyen at 1:09 PM 5/2/2004

 

I'm curious...why do Australian dynos read lower than US ones?

 

Dude first of all you will get better resolution and a higher power figure if you make your run in 3rd gear instead of fourth, Australian ITRs have a different final drive ratio.

your KW output is pretty good but you need VAFC tuned correctly and the ecu will rerichen your air\fuel mixture after about 200 kms so be carefull not to reset your ecu or you have to start over again.

 

And australian dynos read lower because of variance among manufacturers and sae correction factors programmed into the dyno to compensate for metric\imperial measurements

 

that is tuned already
@_@ I dunno if it's good or not

I thought WOT setting is not going to change by resetting the ecu... (I asked on this forum last week)

?????????????

 

Your WOT setting is used on the VAFC obviously when your wide open, at that time the ecu is running open loop. meaning it reverts to its preset tables for A\F mixture. if the ecu detects readings that are abnormal for long periods or harsh conditions it will try and compensate to a certain degree hense the reason my vafc reads -10 correction in some parts of my WOT graphs.

 

So even Australian SAE corrected HP is lower then UA SAE corrected HP?

 

nope theyre the same but minor adjustments for altitude, humidity, wheel diameter, im not a dyno expert so im not exactly sure what the options are but there are a few other parameters in the software for each dyno that can vary and hense the variance in readings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your WOT setting is used on the VAFC obviously when your wide open, at that time the ecu is running open loop. meaning it reverts to its preset tables for A\F mixture. if the ecu detects readings that are abnormal for long periods or harsh conditions it will try and compensate to a certain degree hense the reason my vafc reads -10 correction in some parts of my WOT graphs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so what is the point of using VAFC then, if the ECU is going to try to change the setting?

ummmmm... I dont really understand it

btw... do u know any good tuner in melbourne?

 

114 Kw at the wheels is pretty **** for an ITR

1 HP (Horsepower) = 0.746 Kw (Kilowatt)

If a STOCK Integra Type R dyno's at 92 Kw then you saying it has around 123 HP at the wheels. Which is CRAP.

As for your 114 Kw you dynoed at means you have ruffly around 152 HP which is very very low even for a STOCK Integra Type-R

Your numbers are very very low.

Before you post know you stuff, because what you said with the 95 kw stock ITR dyno and your 114 Kw supposedly a 15% increase well in my books that a massive decrease from stock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NZMugenITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">114 Kw at the wheels is pretty **** for an ITR
Before you post know you stuff, because what you said with the 95 kw stock ITR dyno and your 114 Kw supposedly a 15% increase well in my books that a massive decrease from stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey man r u talking bout urself?

this is an oz dc2r on an australian dyno....
australian dynos read a lot lower than the states' dynos...
stock dc2rs in oz usually read around 95kw atw on 4th gear


for you ROFL



Modified by boszyen at 4:53 PM 5/2/2004

 

Easy now genitalmen

The stock ecu will only compensate for extended periods of abnormal readouts in A|F ratio to a certain extent and then it will throw an error code,
Vafc does a crude job of leaning out your A\F by changing the pulsewidth of the injectors.
if you want to have total control of your engine parameters as you know you must run a stand alone ecu,
which in turn can lose you all the benefits of safety measures built into your ecu

A stock australian ITR puts out about 142kw at the flywheel or about 104kw at the wheels give or take cos of the nature of the beast.

Plenty of bolt on parts for ITR s lose power instead of gain it,
I went through 6 intake setups before finding the correct set up for me

given his low 1st run he may have had a combo of shitty aftermarket parts,

 

By the way Boyszen I would be very carefull what Dean or any of the so called Honda Experts at ART say to you.

A. they are Liars
B they want your money, badly,

Dude seriously I know very few people, in fact---- none who have ever broken a high flow cat due to excessively rich air\ Fuel mixture.

I nearly bought a 99 iTR Cwhite that was tuned by them and it was fucked my sister could have tuned it better.

 

hey boszyen,

yeh i have the plate "ivtec". have you seen me around before?
my best friend have a dc5 with the plate "vtech". hahaha
we cruise around together!

i juz bought the K&N air filter from autobarn for $135. can hear vtec kick in now and feels more responsive. thanks alot for the tips.