I need to do some things for the 100k tuneup of my Integra... from what I have been told, the t belt and water pump need be changed along with the spark plugs and wires.

Hoq hard is it to change your t belt and water pump? What exactly or how exactly do you do it? Any help with a 100k tuneup would be great.

I have a 98 LS Integra..

 

take off the crank pulley,support the motor,remove drivers side motor mount,replace belts and stuff..i think someone else could give you a better discription of what to do

 

Thats really about it. Make sure you line up the timing belt right. Don't over torque the water pump. I always use honda-bond when I do a water pump. I would buy a manual or have someone that has done it before help you out.

 

What does it run at Acura?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeBe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does it run at Acura?</TD></TR></TABLE>

?

btw you don't need to use hondabond, honda doesn't use it on their water pump so why add it if the factory doesn't use it. I don't use it and 40,000 miles later no leakage.

 

It meaning a 100k tuneup

I meant to have it all done at Acura

 

Typically like 300 bills from the dealership.

And I've never used HondaBond on my water pump either....it has its own 'o-ring' type of sealing gasket. But you do need to use HondaBond on the corners of the valve cover when reinstalling.

Your Helms manual describes the steps needed in pretty good detail.....just follow it.

 

Timing belt and water pump at the dealership is going to run a MINIMUM of $300 at the dealership. Usually a good bit more. If you do it yourself, consult a manual. You will certainly have problems getting the crankshaft pulley off, I can tell you that ahead of time.

Naturally, you have to use an air powered tool to get the crankshaft pulley off. It is torqued down VERY good. Also, if you can get a buddy to do it with you (especially soemone who has done it before) to watch. A second pair of eyes is invaluable sometimes.

Also, a Helms manual is worth its weight in gold. Invest in one.

Also, do a search on H-T...it might bring up some nitty gritty details. Good luck and take your time.

 

no NEED for air tool
i removed the crankpully on my ls by hand...well i cant say that in all honsety,,,my HUGE friend did it but nevertheless by hand
get a two foot breakerbar and a impact socket
with a 1foot extension

remove the flywheel cover...and jam a screwdriver into the teeth to prevent the motor from turning...&lt;tranny in gear&gt;
and support the whole breakerbar contraption with a jack stand &lt;or the like&gt; to keep the extension strait..

after that PAIN IN THE ***

the only other real problem you will face in getting the timing belt on.....the right way...

ps do some searches for timing belt install and you will find some other good ideas..and help...


GOODLUCK

 

you don't have to use air tools for the crank pulley bolt. A nice 1/2 in breaker bar with a cheater pipe should do the trick. Get Helms if you don't have one, worth every penny. Replacing all that stuff isn't very difficult.

edit: stupid, clumsy, slow typing fingers

 

you NEVER use an air tool on the crank pulley, EVER. an impact wrench will flat spot main bearings in no time flat.

ls water pump runs like $60 at the honda dealership. the timing belt will run around $50. the labor is roughly $100/hour, and i think their book lists it at 3 hours for the job, so youre gonna be paying roughly $400.
ive got a brand new ls water pump BTW.

this job is so simple, its ridiculous. youre gonna need a 17mm, 14mm, and 10mm socket. youre gonna need a 1/4" ratchet for the 10mm, then a 1/2" ratchet/breaker bar for the 14mm and 17mm. a small pry bar will probably be needed to take the timing belt pulley off. youre gonna have to remove the drivers side tyre, jack the car up, remove the crank pulley/belts and start to remove the timing belt cover. when thats done, the next step would be to loosen the tensioner in order to remove the timing belt. now, youre gonna have to remove the valve cover in order to get the belt out and support the engine in order to take the drivers side mount off. take the timing belt off and start to remove the water pump. check the tensioner to make sure it spins freely, if not, replace. put the new water pump on, then timing belt, then rotate engine 180 d, then backwards 90 d, tighten tensioner. this is where you make the decision if you really need the timing belt cover...i myself prefer a nude timing belt, others are afraid a rock may cause some damage.
youre gonna need a valve cover gasket, and now would be a good time to check the valve lash as well.

if i missed something, someone point it out so this guy has complete directions so this task can be performed easily.

how fast can some of you perform this task?

 

if the crank pulley bolt comes right off then around 30 minute or so job..dont rush it tho if you havnt done before,try to torque everything down properly and evenly...good luck

 

I'm not saying you have to use honda-bond. I'm just saying that I do. Better safe than sorry. And I guess I lied becuase I don't ALWYAS use it. Just do most of the time. Depends on how much I have lying around in the shop haha.

 

Dont use an impact gun to torque the crank pulley????Holy **** I have been doing that for the past 5 years on hondas....Oh well, no complaints yet....I have never has anything **** up by doing this....Besides the torque on the crank pulleys are usually 100+ ft lbs anyway...

 

Hey RABHonda,

You don't happen to work at a dealership, do you???
I've worked at various Honda dealerships for the past 10 years and all we use on the crank bolts are impact guns. Day in, day out. Never have had one come back with a bearing problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you NEVER use an air tool on the crank pulley, EVER. an impact wrench will flat spot main bearings in no time flat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What the?????? I have used an impact on NUMEROUS timing belts at an exclusive Honda shop. I have no idea what in the world you are talking about flat spotting main bearings??? I can give references to at least 15 mechanics that use air tools on crankshaft pulleys. Mechanics that have worked on Hondas since the late 70's.

Maybe you have had problems, but I am absolutely clueless to what you are talking about. Inform me how this works, cause there are hundreds, if not thousands of mechanics that are seriously misinformed.

I agree a cheater bar with the correct length, etc. works well, I have used them many times on jobs. I prefer an impact because of the ease of use and the fact that they have never given me trouble in what you reference above.

PLEASE let me know how this phenomenon occurs, cause I am very curious. Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Typically like 300 bills from the dealership.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL Where do you LIVE? I'll trailer my car to your dealer.
I just did mine because I HAD to! I couldn't BELIEVE that my Acura dealer quoted me.............wait for ........it...........$950.00 PLUS TAX Yes, $950.00, that's not a typo
Timing belt R+R only. Not even a 100K service
Do it yourself it's not that hard, when faced with that pricetag.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4crx4me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL Where do you LIVE? I'll trailer my car to your dealer.
I just did mine because I HAD to! I couldn't BELIEVE that my Acura dealer quoted me.............wait for ........it...........$950.00 PLUS TAX Yes, $950.00, that's not a typo
Timing belt R+R only. Not even a 100K service
Do it yourself it's not that hard, when faced with that pricetag.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! I believe it. Dealerships are not cheap. No matter where you live.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dareseven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL! I believe it. Dealerships are not cheap. No matter where you live.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They're really crazy. I laughed and said "But I only PAID $3500.00 for the WHOLE car." And walked. They didn't seem to care at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmrvi1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey RABHonda,

You don't happen to work at a dealership, do you???
I've worked at various Honda dealerships for the past 10 years and all we use on the crank bolts are impact guns. Day in, day out. Never have had one come back with a bearing problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats great for you, but ive witnessed cars that chewed up bearings because of that. ive also seen flat spotted bearings because of that. my advanced engine building professor explained why impacts should not be used on crank related items. hell, ive even joked around about this with my machinist.

think about how an impact works. then think about how energy is transferred between objects. then think about how fragile a main bearing is.

 

RABHonda,
An impact gun imparts rotational force to the bolt. It does not inpart lateral force on the crank. So please explain how does the impact gun flatten the bearings?
The main causes of bearing failure are:
Detonation, improper oil pressure, improperly tensioned drive belts, deteriorated oil.

 

an impact works with sudden, quick, hard blasts in order to turn the drive/socket causing side load on the nut. think of it this way, when you torque a rod/main/head bolt, do you jerk the torque wrench to the desired torque, or do you slowly and gently pull til you hear the click?

you do what you do, youve been doing it for 10 years. ive been building engines for 5 and am enrolling in the premiere engine machinist school of this country. ive learned tips/tricks from teachers, machinists, open wheel and stock car engine builders. this is what i know, this is what ive been taught. im not saying its absolutely right, im just saying, I Would Never Use An Impact On My Crank Bolt. im just giving some advice. besides, the crank bolt only needs about 50 ft-lbs, in reality. (on b, d, some f, and h series anyway)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an impact works with sudden, quick, hard blasts in order to turn the drive/socket causing side load on the nut. think of it this way, when you torque a rod/main/head bolt, do you jerk the torque wrench to the desired torque, or do you slowly and gently pull til you hear the click?

you do what you do, youve been doing it for 10 years. ive been building engines for 5 and am enrolling in the premiere engine machinist school of this country. ive learned tips/tricks from teachers, machinists, open wheel and stock car engine builders. this is what i know, this is what ive been taught. im not saying its absolutely right, im just saying, I Would Never Use An Impact On My Crank Bolt. im just giving some advice. besides, the crank bolt only needs about 50 ft-lbs, in reality. (on b, d, some f, and h series anyway)</TD></TR></TABLE>

You still haven't answered the question. How does torqueing/untorqueing a crankshaft pulley bolt with an impact "flatten" main bearings?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> besides, the crank bolt only needs about 50 ft-lbs, in reality. (on b, d, some f, and h series anyway)</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have officially made the readers of this thread dumber. In reality, most b, d, f, and h series crankshaft pulley bolts are to be torqued in the range of 119 lb. ft to 134 lb. ft. This is according to HONDA SPECS.

Where in the world are you pulling this nonsense misinformation??!!!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an impact works with sudden, quick, hard blasts in order to turn the drive/socket causing side load on the nut. </TD></TR></TABLE>

An ENGINE works with sudden, quick, hard blasts in order to turn the CRANKSHAFT, causing sideload on the WHEELS.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ive learned tips/tricks from teachers, machinists, open wheel and stock car engine builders. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Open wheel and stock car huh? That explains it. Never mind.

 

oh, so its like that. open wheel meaning CART and IRL. and didnt Smokey Yunick build NASCAR engines? hmm, isnt he one of the best engine builders around?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dareseven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have officially made the readers of this thread dumber. In reality, most b, d, f, and h series crankshaft pulley bolts are to be torqued in the range of 119 lb. ft to 134 lb. ft. This is according to HONDA SPECS.</TD></TR></TABLE>
personal experience i suppose. ive built n/a b16's that were capable of revving to 12,000 rpms, re-sleeved b16's running 16lbs of boost on 9.8:1 compression, b20vtecs, the dreaded ITR engine, n/a d16's running 12:1 compression, f20's and a 400 hp h22a. ive never put a crank shaft bolt on with a torque wrench, but always with a simple 14" ratchet. never had a problem.

i have explained how main bearings get flat-spotted.

 

I am sorry. I shouldn't have been such an ***. If you have built the engines you listed above, then you certainly have a good bit of experience. It sounds like you have had good experience with hand torqueing the crankshaft bolt, so maybe I will give it a try next time. However, the bolt does need to be torqued down significantly higher than what you recommend (at least 100 lb. ft. in my opinion).

Again, I apologize for being a jerk. As far as engine building programs in race series are concerned, I happen to be a fan of.....you guessed it, Hondas (or Ferrari,etc)....in the F1 arena . How can one not be impressed with a motor that revs to 17,000 and 18,000 rpms for extended periods? And IRL/CART kicks butt too! Yunick's reputation is stellar. I will never be very impressed with 1960's technology (carbeurated pushrod V8) found in NASCAR, though.