I just baught a 90 ls motor with out a tranny for $355.00 I'm on a very limited budget. I'm not sure what i need to complete the swap, my friend told me that the motor will bolt on the old tranny (89 crx hf 5spd) and that i also would not need any motor mounts is this true? any help would be great

Any other cool tips for swap would be nice if u have any

Thanks for the help!!!!!

 

You are going to need a B series tranny,ECU,axles and a motor mount kit. I would say it is going to cost you about another $800-$1000 at the least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sikocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are going to need a B series tranny,ECU,axles and a motor mount kit. I would say it is going to cost you about another $800-$1000 at the least.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also, need to swap knuckles/hubs and need shift linkage

 

also need someone who knows what theyre doing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1point5CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also need someone who knows what theyre doing </TD></TR></TABLE>

think you need to start with that first!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

think you need to start with that first! </TD></TR></TABLE>

agree

 

first of all dont take any more advise about hondas from that friend. you need all the **** jlicrx said, good luck

 

YA why would you need a mount kit just use 90'-93' integra mounts,complete knuckles with brake assembely and linkage with a pg-7 ecu and bump up the fuel pressure. WORD and try to get hold of a YS-1. sweet gearing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91' Z-6 Canadian hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YA why would you need a mount kit just use 90'-93' integra mounts,complete knuckles with brake assembely and linkage with a pg-7 ecu and bump up the fuel pressure. WORD and try to get hold of a YS-1. sweet gearing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

riiiight

u need a swap mount kit. like a hasport or AZRace and machine.
pg7 is the wrong ecu to use (meant for a 88-89 teg w/ a d16a1) you need an obd0 pr4. Get Si/DX hubs w/ the brakes (might as well as they are bigger)


Modified by crx_88_si at 4:33 PM 5/3/2004

 

the ECU you need is a PR4.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

riiiight

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he's talking about the ghettofied way that people were doing swaps back in the day. I have seen people pull off moving the mount on the rear x-member over to the auto holes and then hammering the right and left mount points open wide enough to jam the motor mount in there and put a bolt in. Its really shotty though... like really really really really really really really shotty. You usually find this on cars that have an unpainted body kit, missing pieces, 1 spare, a cracked windshield, and a driver that rips on your car based on how fast his is going to be once he's done.


To the original guy...

the right way to do the swap would be to get mounts, axels, ecu, etc. If all you have now is the motor and you are on a limited budget, it is probably best to sell the motor and put that money toward either a ZC or a D16Z6 motor. As a few others said, get in touch with someone that knows there stuff a little better than your friend. Good luck!

 

recently did an ls swap into si crx using pg-7 with a fuel reg to bump to 44psi no problems with bolting motor in place or runnability. ya and i run the pg-7 in my z-6 hatch with a japan factory regulator 7600 r's no problems but either way it all works and the 92-93 ls brakes have the biggest rotor size thats why you have to run 15" rims up front to clear the BIGGER ROTORS and CALIPER.

BUT GO AHEAD AND SPEND. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR SWAP

 

what obd-1 computer for obd-0 right more **** to play with

 

thats why he is a trial user

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91' Z-6 Canadian hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">recently did an ls swap into si crx using pg-7 with a fuel reg to bump to 44psi no problems with bolting motor in place or runnability. ya and i run the pg-7 in my z-6 hatch with a japan factory regulator 7600 r's no problems but either way it all works and the 92-93 ls brakes have the biggest rotor size thats why you have to run 15" rims up front to clear the BIGGER ROTORS and CALIPER.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


So did you hammer the mounts apart to get the mounts to fit? Maybe you know something we don't? The mounts on an LS motor traditionally don't line up with the mounts on an Si (or any crx that came with a D series). Like I said, people used to ghettofy them to get them to 'fit', but otherwise, I have never seen them fit without either rewelding, bending, or buying a mount kit. That is why companies like hasport are in business. Are you saying that you took a CRX with a stock D series, removed the D series, dropped a B18 right in and all the stock mounts just lined up? Pictures of said car?

 

sorry no pics but yes i did pull the o.e.m. motor and drop in the b-18 when i do swaps i like to leave all mounting points a hair loose to aid the lineup of mounts, didn't need to hammer the mounts out and the car was in pristine shape.
and for whoever would like to know i dont do swaps ghetto i make them clean and reliable been doin this for quite a while and lovin it. love the sweet smell of 114 OCT. companies sell components to people that dont want to hassle with figuring out what will or wont work. also because they bling up parts and throw prothane bushings in for just a small fee ya how much do they charge.does any one know the factory exhaust piece to fill the gap between header flange and catalytic converter i do? any way not trying to hate on others.
trial user cause i just signed up