Im having trouble closing the tranny case. It wont go down enough to get the snap ring to touch the bearing. How can I make it go down?

TIA

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=805145&page=2

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How far is it off? How much left has the casing closed?

Make sure the snap ring is sitting on top of the bearing, then expand the ring so that it stays expanded and is in the right groove. Either pull up on the shaft OR put 3-4 bolts hand tight on the casing and turn the casing upside down. Tap gently on a peice of wood. It should snap into place.

 

I dont think that applies to my case....my snap ring hasnt even touched the counter shaft. Its not hitting anything. What I did was replace the bearing on top of the mainshaft....

 

I think whats getting stuck is the shifter pin, which holds the change holder together. I have already scraped and reapplied hondabond 2 times. The first time the tranny case didnt go down so I took the change holder apart and then reinstalled it and went for another go and with a few taps the case went down enough to expand the snap ring. Then I took it off to apply new honda bond and it wouldnt go down just like the first time. Is there a special trick so that peice doesnt get held up?

 

Ok I was able to close the tranny up and i installed the snap ring and all the bolts, but now when the tranny is fully built i turn it over to spin the main shaft and its hard as a rock...it doesnt budge? Why can this be? I later on took the bolts off and just left the snap ring on and it still doesnt move...if i take off the snap ring it moves fine. ANY help???

Also does it matter which way the input shaft bearing goes? I have it with the lettering that is etched on it facing up? Should it be the other way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put 3-4 bolts hand tight on the casing and turn the casing upside down. Tap gently on a peice of wood. It should snap into place. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, I can project my thoughts into other ppls minds

 

I closed the case but the main shaft does not spin. Today I replace the ISB, the oil seal, and the angular bearing which sits on top of the main shaft. When I replaced the angular bearing, am I supposed to reshim the mainshaft?

 

Do yourself a favor and buy a Helms or the Honda service manual. Figuring out what you did wrong without being able to physically inspect the tranny is difficult at best. If you had the countershaft apart, you may not have installed the tangs on the friction dampers properly, and that can cause the tranny to bind. When putting the cases back together, I like to shift the trans. into gear; the shift arms don't flop around as much.

 

I didnt take the counter shaft completely apart. All I did was take the nut off because I was going to replace the needle bearing but saw nothing was wrong with it, so I just put the nut back. I didnt take that bearing out. I think the problem is the shim for the main shaft. I took the shim and oil plate out and was able to spin the shaft with the case closed? Does this mean I have to re shim the main shaft? All I did was replace 2 bearing?

 

The shim and spring washer should not have to be replaced, and should not be causing your binding trouble. Without seeing the trans in person, it's tough to figure out what's wrong. You need to get someone experienced to look at your tranny for you, or at least get the book out.

 

Is it possible if the washer on top of the counter shaft is upside down it could be causing my problem? Its a spring washer

 

Which shafts did you take out? All of it apart?

So your saying that when the tranny casing is off, the countershaft does not spin?

 

I took off both mainshaft and counter shaft out of the tranny. When the shafts are in the tranny with the case off, they spin freely, but when I close the case, thats when it binds?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it possible if the washer on top of the counter shaft is upside down it could be causing my problem? Its a spring washer</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no spring washer on the countershaft. There is a funky shaped washer with a notch on it that has to align with the case, and if you are putting that washer in wrong, it could bind the tranny.

 

The washer with the notch is on the main shaft...Im talking about the washer under the nut on the counter shaft.

 

yes, that washer has an top and bottom

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is no spring washer on the countershaft. There is a funky shaped washer with a notch on it that has to align with the case, and if you are putting that washer in wrong, it could bind the tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same thing with my transmission - after I bolted the housing the main shaft would not spin at all. Had to take it apart again and found that that notch on the washer did not go into it's place in the housing, causing the main shaft to bind.

There actually is a mark on that washer and the mark is supposed to 'look' at the secondary shaft - then when you put the housing on it'll be aligned.
hope it helps, and yes, the manual is a very good idea ;-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, that washer has an top and bottom</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if I put that washer on backwards, would it cause the binding?

 

I hate s4c trannys I just dont understand what could cause the binding when the case is closed. It doesnt do it when Its open???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dd_ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There actually is a mark on that washer and the mark is supposed to 'look' at the secondary shaft - then when you put the housing on it'll be aligned.
hope it helps, and yes, the manual is a very good idea ;-)
</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate s4c trannys I just dont understand what could cause the binding when the case is closed. It doesnt do it when Its open??? </TD></TR></TABLE> I'll trade you my 1993 Civic CX Dseries tranny even-steven so you dont have to hate your tranny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So if I put that washer on backwards, would it cause the binding?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dd_ITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There actually is a mark on that washer and the mark is supposed to 'look' at the secondary shaft </TD></TR></TABLE>

I should point either to secondary shaft or shift fork, I forgot which one. Anyway, if you look inside the housing, you'll get the idea what it should point to.

 

What is the secondary shaft? Also what is the mark? I got the case to close fine now....the problem is when I go to move the mainshaft from outside the tranny it binds while the case is closed.

 

Ok I assembled the tranny just with the main shaft...it still binds. I have the washer on top aligned, the bearing up top is seated right, it sticks out just a lil bit. What can it be??