Project Big Block means this is a ~1.7 motor!!
10am Friday


1:30 Friday




2:30 Friday - The little SOHC that DID


Today, the plan is to put the head on the block and inspect EVERYTHING. The car won't be running until I get the damn Intake manifold. Still isn't available yet. It will be run NA for a while so I can get the new Manifold, DP, Dump Tube, turbo, etc.

After inspecting the pressure plate, I will be sending it to ACT for lookover. It don't look pretty.

My only worries were moving the valvetrain (rocker assemblies) from the old head to the new. Turns out to be fine. Engine spins free when you turn the crank.

My question is, it is bad to turn the motor over when all I have is WD40 on the sleeves? It was only cranked over 1 full turn.


Modified by ladysman at 10:57 AM 4/27/2004

 

Finally...

About the cranking over...it will be fine. Just don't do it repetatively with no oil in the engine.

The best way to break in the motor is to spray WD40 into the cylinders before you start it up anyways.

 

Engine is assembled!!

Aint it a beauty!!!









Show the extended studs for use with the Hondata Gasket and Washers


Yeah, that's me. I am an ugly fawker ain't I.


Ready for the Intake manifold to get here!!! Come on Edelbrock!!!



After my initial concerns were remedied, I feel better. My only worry in this whole thing was moving the rocker assembly from 1 head to the next since the ported head never had the rocker assembly when I bought it and had it done. Turns out that it was just fine. Smooth as my daughters butt. The cam is HUGE. I should have taken pictures to show how close the lobes come to hitting. It is just mm's!!! If anyone has any suggestions or questions, as always, I'd be glad to answer.

I will keep everyone updated as I progress. I am going to go ahead and break it in NA while I wait for the turbo stuff to get here.

Brad

 

first off : you should never use WD 40 as a lubricant, it was designed to be used as a cleaner, it's true that it lubricate though but it dry after a couple of day's.

no it's not bad to turn engine by the crank with hand with only WD40 on the sleeve, if you do however spin it with the starter or with an impact be shure to get proper lubrication cause heat and friction will eventually destroy the ring's.

Kranked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally...

About the cranking over...it will be fine. Just don't do it repetatively with no oil in the engine.

The best way to break in the motor is to spray WD40 into the cylinders before you start it up anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HEHE, I know. Over 2 years in the making.

THere is plenty of WD40 on there just like Endyn recommended. He does great work by the way. I opted for the Eagle rod bolt upgrade (which is standard now). Just extra insurance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kranked91dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first off : you should never use WD 40 as a lubricant, it was designed to be used as a cleaner, it's true that it lubricate though but it dry after a couple of day's.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I always thought it was a lubricant to help with rusted bolts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I always thought it was a lubricant to help with rusted bolts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it help with rust, but it also do wonder with grease and other grime stuff...
it's a great product no doubt, but it's not a great lubricant for shure,

though putting some into the sleeve before assemble seem's a pretty good idea since it will burn in no time and will not leave any risidue,

for rusted bolt try penetrant oil like Liquid wrench, that seriously kick rusted *** bolt !

Kranked

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kranked91dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it help with rust, but it also do wonder with grease and other grime stuff...
it's a great product no doubt, but it's not a great lubricant for shure,

though putting some into the sleeve before assemble seem's a pretty good idea since it will burn in no time and will not leave any risidue,

for rusted bolt try penetrant oil like Liquid wrench, that seriously kick rusted *** bolt !

Kranked
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Endyn recommend to put on the sleeves, obviously for rust prevention but also to aid in starting cause this stuff is like ether.

 

Looks awesome Brad Is your new turbo on the way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GITWIDIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks awesome Brad Is your new turbo on the way?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know, ask Art.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The best way to break in the motor is to spray WD40 into the cylinders before you start it up anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Even if you prime it first?

 

Dope!

 

Looks good. I have always liked the "underdog" SOHC motors.

 

Looks really good!!! Cant wait to see the numbers keep us posted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FredoSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Even if you prime it first? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure.

Like mentioned before, it just helps keep the sleeves from rusting while assembily, as well as providing just the right amount of lubrication on start up. It lubes the pistons on start up, as well as cleaning the rings of any oil that might prevent initial seating. It burns off almost instantly, which is fine since the most of the ring seating will occur during start up.

 

What's the set up? I must of missed your previous posts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My question is, it is bad to turn the motor over when all I have is WD40 on the sleeves? It was only cranked over 1 full turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you turned the crankshaft counterclockwise your ok.If you didnt or cant remember just check the timing belt marks cause it could jump time if turned clockwise.

 

Goodluck

 

nice set up oh and you reppin the shocker eh

 

Hurry up and break that bad *** D16 in Brad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As long as you turned the crankshaft counterclockwise your ok.If you didnt or cant remember just check the timing belt marks cause it could jump time if turned clockwise. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it was counter clockwise. thanks for the info.

Still waiting on the Edlbrock manifold....Damnit!!!!

 

maybe i dont get the joke, but what is big block about it?

 

78mm d16 = ~1.7L...
mine is 77mm = ~1.68L

just a figure of speech. take it easy cowboy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicRyda2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">78mm d16 = ~1.7L...
mine is 77mm = ~1.68L

just a figure of speech. take it easy cowboy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO!!

Yes, just a big bore SOHC. I will edit my originaly post cause I have gotten 4 PM's with the same question..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicRyda2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">78mm d16 = ~1.7L...
mine is 77mm = ~1.68L

just a figure of speech. take it easy cowboy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn

i bored mines 0.040 over

means i got a 1.65 L honda motor right??"?