I need help deciding on a swap for my daily driver 1998 ex.
The car will basically be a sleeper, but it will not be raced.

 

K20a...its just money,don't be shy.

 

i dont really like the options u provided, i think there are better choices.

if u just want a daily driver get a b16a2...

 

b18

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaptr1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if u just want a daily driver get a b16a2...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The transmission on that motor has syncro problems.

 

h22 yuppp

 

I say you stick with the D series

http://www.exospeed.com has the parts to make it a 13 sec car on street tires which is really pretty damn fast for a civic daily driver without going poor on tires and suspension

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spirit R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say you stick with the D series

http://www.exospeed.com has the parts to make it a 13 sec car on street tires which is really pretty damn fast for a civic daily driver without going poor on tires and suspension</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want the reliabilty though, I won't have much time to work on it after the swap is done.

 

There is nothing more reliable than a d series

especailly since you will be driving on a motor you know the history of.

You can even buy a spare and have it nicely built for the street and swap it in a couple hours without the usual motor swap mess

When you buy a swap from most places it comes with a startup warranty which means all 4 bearings could be spun but as long as it turns over and rod knocks to life mission accomplished

now this does'nt happen very often but soemtimes I wonder "if you had to replace your engine or rebuild every 40K like the JDMers would you care if the oil level was low the last 10 K ?"

 

I can't see much reliability coming out of a d series if its in the 13-14 second range. Seems easier to get the power with more displacement instead. This is just gonna be a daily driver anyways. Most people seems satisfied with thier JDM swaps it seems...

 

I drove my 11 sec hatch to work everyday for 6 mos. With another 400 #'s it would be in the 13 sec range

a big diff is in the final drive upgrade for that trans

For the price of a swap you could have this instead



All motor D16Z6 - SOHC daily driver

Street strip 11.0 comp. JG Redline series head package with 85VT80 camshaft, with modified stock ECU.

160 Hp and 119 Lbs. of torque at the wheels.

 

if its not gunna be raced keep ur engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1hotcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its not gunna be raced keep ur engine </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly!

Where the hell is the B20 option??

 

Lost in the "ITs NUt vTak itZ n0t PimpZoR" noise I'm afraid

 

Why would you go out of your way to swap and just drive it 5 under the speed limit?

 

that kind of attitude gets your car snatched up quick by the po's

and once you get one ticket the rest start flowing in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Just-Dumb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you go out of your way to swap and just drive it 5 under the speed limit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't im 18, I drive like a manic, I just don't street race (nothing against it though). The d16 is too slow for my liking thats all.

 

I would have to say B20B/Z with GSR tranny and OBD1 conversion of course. Good low-end grunt and you don't have to rev all day to feel the power, great daily driver setup.
I think the GSR is a bit pricey for something you never plan to do anything more with than drive daily. Same applies to the H22A, not to mention the added work on to be daily driven

 

u say here
h22- harder swap, more torque. = TRUE
b18- easier swap, reliable long term = FALSE

the h22 is just as reliable as a b18.
alot of problems that people tend to have when swapping in an h22 come from the installers part.... or from an aftermarket part malfunction...ie: bad mounts, sorry axles. cel - due to something wired incorrectly or not at all....

now if we were to hear of something like.. water pumps going out... oil pumps going out... something actually connected to or in the engine breaking all the time.. then the h22 could be called not reliable... but we dont here these things all the time.. or at least i dont... in fact i cant remember the last time i heard about an h22 breaking down at all.... or even a b18 for that matter...

both are very good engines.
but i vote for H22. u drive like a maniac u say... this would fit u very well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rovigian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't im 18, I drive like a manic, I just don't street race (nothing against it though). The d16 is too slow for my liking thats all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok.... Y did u post this twice?

 

Must have been an error because I only typed it once.

 

ok.. mah bad... it must be my comp.... cuz i dont see it anymore.... either that.. or im drinking to much.....

 

Yes k20 will kick ***

 

H22a or a K20. H22's are nice due to the high tourqe numbers. GSR swaps are really nice also. I had both H22 and GSR swaps in my old 97 dx coupe and loved them both. The GSR is an easier swap and a bit cheaper. It ran a 9.0 1/8th mile right before i got rid of it.