I'm finally going to install my ACT HDSS clutch kit in my boosted 97 EX so I can boost again . But I have absolutely no tranny experience other than installing my short shifter and ES bushings (cake). Any tips or things I should watch out for? Am I going to have to resurface the flywheel? And if so, where can I get that done? what other stuff do I need to know about installing a clutch?

Keep in mind, I know NOTHING!

But I do have a hoist, air tools and a domestic buddy helping (never done a honda though)
so

 

get a friend who knows what he is doing. dont get grease on the pressure plate flywheel or clutch. make sure everything is torqued to spec. dont drop the transmission on your head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bretx0r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a friend who knows what he is doing. dont get grease on the pressure plate flywheel or clutch. make sure everything is torqued to spec. dont drop the transmission on your head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome. Thanks for the tips. Any more?

 

Take apart everything...it may look like you can work around it, but it will be much easier to remove anything close to the tranny, i.e. Radiator, intake, strut tower bar, anything. If you are really picky you may want to take the fender off to prevent dents because you will be leaning on it a lot throughout the day. Make sure to drain the tranny before you drop it (forgot to do that once). Leave the clutch and flywheel in the box until you are ready to put them on. Put on new latex gloves before touching them. Use a little "red" locktite on the flywheel bolts (for security) and torque everything down good. Make sure you have 2 quarts of tranny fluid before you get started. Its not too hard just be patient and take your time.

 

If you've never removed the flywheel bolts before they will be hard to move without using a breaker bar. Also don't forget you need someone to hold the crank so it doesn't move while you are removing the bolts on the flywheel. Clutch is easy the hardest part about the whole procedure is removing everything else.

Good luck.

 

You guys are really helping me out. Keep this thread useful with more tips

 

helms manual.

 

also. dont remove the slave cylinder line, remove the whole slave cylinder. Then you wont have to re-bleed it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eghatchproject &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you've never removed the flywheel bolts before they will be hard to move without using a breaker bar. Also don't forget you need someone to hold the crank so it doesn't move while you are removing the bolts on the flywheel. Clutch is easy the hardest part about the whole procedure is removing everything else.

Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and if someone isn't there to hold the crank, then what can you use to unbolt the flywheel. The reason, im trying to get a FW off a engine i bought and can't get the thing off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepyhamsterlx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and if someone isn't there to hold the crank, then what can you use to unbolt the flywheel. The reason, im trying to get a FW off a engine i bought and can't get the thing off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same problem. What ensued was a small fiasco that involved about 4 c-clamps, a screwdriver, an ultra long breaker bar, and lots of swearing. I finally got the flywheel off.