LS 1.8L block bored to 2.0L:
-----------------------------------
Iron Sleeves
JE pistons
Eagle Rods
Bore, Hone, Hot tank, Deck (if nec)
Balanced Crank
Polished Crank
All new Bearings & Thrusts
All new seals, and Oil pan Gasket
New VTEC oil pump
New VTEC water pump
__________________________________
B16a Head
-------------
Cams,springs,retainers
P&P
DTR Header
310 injectors
255 fuel pump
cam gears
68mm TB

Also add a LSD, 12Lb. flywheel, and Hondata.

What else should I get or change with this setup. It's going into my '90 Crx that I'm going to make into a full drag car. Thanks for any help.



Modified by SadisticRacing at 11:24 AM 6/29/2004

 

hope u got alotta money

 

i like everything except the full drag part.....
full drag is a headache

 

Why just a 12 lb flywheel, why not a 6 or 7 lb one?

 

what compression you going to run?.. cams?.. etc?...

 

Bell-So you think I should just put the motor in the car as the car is right now then?

I was told that 12Lb flywheel would be the best for the set-up if any other info it would be great. As far as compression I was thinking in the 12:1 range, cams I wasn't sure which would be best(still researching) any choices would be great.


Modified by SadisticRacing at 11:57 AM 4/22/2004

 

build the motor, throw it in, tune it, and your set.... btw, what is 12Lb?

 

Keep it in your street car... Well whatever you choose to do sounds cool but remember that 12:1 comp these days and on the self parts wont cut it for a full drag car. However, if you just plan to make it your local track car and upgrade the motor later on then build it and have fun. It does get expensive though if you have to keep upgrading parts when you decide that you want to go faster. My suggestion is that if u build a drag car start with the chassis modifications and that will give you time to determine just how deep you want to get involved into this racing game. Then the last step would be to set a goal and build your motor with all the right parts that will best help to achieve your goal.

 

^ well said...

 

Thanks for all the replies. My goal is to be able to run mid 11's. I know it's not easy and it's going to take time but that's what I want. I was told by someone today that I should build it at 14:1 or 15:1 for full race. I never drive the car on the street, so would that be easier to hit my goals with then the 12:1? I know I would have to use race gas only if I go that high but that's not a problem either.

 

if its going to be strickly a track car go higher than 12:1 i say do what they said and go with 14-15:l. and run some race fuel 12.1 is kind of a waste if its not going to be road drivin.... ofcourse that high of compression is gonna take some good tuning and alot of $$$

 

Well I was planning about $8,000 for the motor & tuning. Do you think that I can do it for that or what should I budget?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SadisticRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bell-So you think I should just put the motor in the car as the car is right now then?

I was told that 12Lb flywheel would be the best for the set-up if any other info it would be great. As far as compression I was thinking in the 12:1 range, cams I wasn't sure which would be best(still researching) any choices would be great.


Modified by SadisticRacing at 11:57 AM 4/22/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>


Full drag is a headache.....8-12 lbs whatvers your preference....make sure its balanced thats all....as far as compression......if your goin full race 12:1 is not enough...but still not too much for the street....

 

Thanks Bell, why do you say full drag is such a headache?

 

just do your research well and go high compression

 

my gripe is mainly with one peice front ends.....i hate putting them on and takin them off....always gotta have a truck and trailor....roll cages .... rules and all the other bullshit that comes along with it.....

 

if you have $8000 ... i would look into those crated motors by recon and mr gasket ... cost for the recon motor is 5000 ... its a 2.1 liter boasting 275hp to the flywheel ... also has a 12month/ 12000 mile warranty ... as far as internals all i know is that you get a dart block and dart head ... havent really did much research on it yet though

 

The only thing that about just putting a fully built motor into my Crx the way it is, is that I don't think I'll be able to hit the goals I want for the car. I already plan on buying a trailer either way because I have the car non-op'd with DMV because I never drive it on the street and don't want to pay for it if I'm only going to race it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AIM:eg6bronze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have $8000 ... i would look into those crated motors by recon and mr gasket ... cost for the recon motor is 5000 ... its a 2.1 liter boasting 275hp to the flywheel ... also has a 12month/ 12000 mile warranty ... as far as internals all i know is that you get a dart block and dart head ... havent really did much research on it yet though</TD></TR></TABLE>

but that takes all the fun out if building a motor.....
plus people dont usually go out and buy something until they see it working in real life.....until i see someone with that crate motor pullin 275 whp then i wont believe it

 

Well he said 275 to the flywheel and your right I want to build it not buy a crate motor but thanks for the suggestion. Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

Well I'm going to go with the 15:1 CR but now I'd like some opinions of what cams I should buy?

 

from DeviantGSR from honda-tech
GS-R
81mm bore = 3.1889 in
87.2mm stroke = 3.4331 in
137.9 rod length = 5.4291 in
GSR: 191.12 PSI
According to Shivers from the Rocket forum
Buddy Club Spec III
48 - BTDC (intake)
76 - ABDC (intake)
71 - BBDC (exhaust)
43 - ATDC (exhaust)

Calculated at 0psi boost and 0 elevation
0% 190.59 12.8 :1 compression
15% 219.788 14.4 :1 compression
20% 235.0776 15.2 :1 compression

^Taken from another thread here... the midrange rpm makes a nice curve but top end however isn't all that great. Personally, I would try these cams out with a high compression 1.8L+ B series motor.

 

Ask your head porter which cams you should go with.

 

rocket m24's or toda d's or skunk 2 stage 3.

 

Thanks for all the replies and choices. Now it's time to research some of them and also ask my head porter.