I started the car up, it drives and everything but it won't idle, not even around 1000-1500 rpms. I checked the idle air control valve and all the sensors. It idles around 300-500 rpms and shuts off.

Anybody have these cams in a B18C5 and had a similar problem? Any suggestions?

I pulled out the plugs and they were white. I guess I'm running lean. I haven't installed the VAFC yet. Maybe I should run richer at idle and take it to a dyno.

 

you installed and ran these cams with stock ECU?

you are then gonna add just a VAFC to tune later on??

dear lord the idling problems are the least of your worries

 

If you just dropped them in a stock motor w/ a stock ecu, chances are no one else has had that problem because no one in their right mind would do such a thing. They are not a drop in and drive item. If that's not the case, provide more info.

 

Holy crap.....Please dont do this. End it now.

 

calm down boys
it is a chipped mugen ecu
but i just started it up I still have to in stall the v-afc probally thursday.
my question is do you think its that bad, that I really need to instal the vafc just to get the idle right.
meaning put extra fuel at the 1000 rpm mark and up
or it might be a other problem????

 

someone was selln a set on the forum.. always wondered what would happen when used.... now i'm a lil worried... let us know what setup your gonna use.. i'd like to know more info on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jossymotors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">calm down boys
it is a chipped mugen ecu
but i just started it up I still have to in stall the v-afc probally thursday.
my question is do you think its that bad, that I really need to instal the vafc just to get the idle right.
meaning put extra fuel at the 1000 rpm mark and up
or it might be a other problem????</TD></TR></TABLE>

You REALLY need to do MUCH more than this. Research.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jossymotors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it is a chipped mugen ecu
</TD></TR></TABLE>

how is that different than a stock ecu in your situation?

a chipped mugen ecu does nothing for you...it was still chipped for stock cams

 

my setup is a 2001 gsr shell with a new blcok, head and itr tranny,
i got all this when i was working at the dealer ship.
running jun stage 4 cams with complete valve train and rev valves.
the head was port and polished, also i have a AEBS intake manifold and 70mm trottle body, spoon headgasket and aebs head studs,
running obd1 ecu chipped with stock obd3 injectors. I have the jumper harness.

i have had only good experience with jun cams
i had a crx with a itr engine and the only difference was that i had jun stage 3 cams
put down 200.9@ wheels
did a 12.41@108 on slicks ful street


i was just wondering if any body else had similar issues running the stage 4s



Modified by jossymotors at 5:20 AM 4/20/2004

 

stock injectors?

stock valvetrain too?

cam gears?

:shakeshead: nothing you've posted makes any sense whatsoever

all i can say is lots of luck to you

 

I will try to help you out here.....

With those cams, I'd suggest you use a stock (ish) ecu. The mugen ecu seems to work best with stock itr cams.

Try a p73 if you have access to one. Or hondata would be your best bet. (But then again you SHOULD know that already.)

Install that vafc asap. Here's how you fix the idle: lean out the partial throttle settings to between -35 and -50. You'll know it when you get it right b/c it'll idle good at 800 +/- 50. To fix the coasting up to a stoplight and the rpm's drop too hard; simply turn the idle screw ccw about 5 full turns.

This works with most cams that have large primaries: toda b, c, d, jun 4, etc.....

 

good info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will try to help you out here.....

With those cams, I'd suggest you use a stock (ish) ecu. The mugen ecu seems to work best with stock itr cams.

Try a p73 if you have access to one. Or hondata would be your best bet. (But then again you SHOULD know that already.)

Install that vafc asap. Here's how you fix the idle: lean out the partial throttle settings to between -35 and -50. You'll know it when you get it right b/c it'll idle good at 800 +/- 50. To fix the coasting up to a stoplight and the rpm's drop too hard; simply turn the idle screw ccw about 5 full turns.

This works with most cams that have large primaries: toda b, c, d, jun 4, etc..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

this will cause your car running lean which will end up killing your block.

you need to listen to very very carefully, cuz i had toda spec 2 which has idle lift high as v-tech lift & had same problem and end up blown block by lean it out. since, your idle cam lift is higher you'll need increase your air to your engine by doing that you'll need to increase fuel. do not try to lean it out, but increase your fuel. also take it dyno tuner asap. make sure your tuner know what the f*ck they're doing. well, good luck hopefully your car doesn't end up like my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integrasi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this will cause your car running lean which will end up killing your block.

you need to listen to very very carefully, cuz i had toda spec 2 which has idle lift high as v-tech lift & had same problem and end up blown block by lean it out. since, your idle cam lift is higher you'll need increase your air to your engine by doing that you'll need to increase fuel. do not try to lean it out, but increase your fuel. also take it dyno tuner asap. make sure your tuner know what the f*ck they're doing. well, good luck hopefully your car doesn't end up like my car. </TD></TR></TABLE>


The car SHOULD run lean at idle. Check the a/f ratio at idle on even a stock itr and you'll know what I'm talking about. THIS IS HOW YOU GET A GOOD IDLE WITH CAMS THAT HAVE LARGE PRIMARIES.

BTW, wtf are "toda spec 2" cams?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


The car SHOULD run lean at idle. Check the a/f ratio at idle on even a stock itr and you'll know what I'm talking about. THIS IS HOW YOU GET A GOOD IDLE WITH CAMS THAT HAVE LARGE PRIMARIES.

BTW, wtf are "toda spec 2" cams? </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, it's spec b cams. but you should of known what i was talking about. well, it's up to him whether he leans out or richen it. yes by leaning out your car will idle, but correct way is to put more fuel into engine.

 

There can be numerous problems into why your car stalls from low rpm. Check all your vacum lines and idle control systems. then check timing and tdc stuff. Always start from 1 source and work your way down. Its something in reference as a "check-list". larger cams tend to idle lower also,my s2s3 idles at a fair 800...good luck buddy

 

If you don't have some monster springs, you're going to make an impressive mess when you hit VTEC. You might get away with a few runs, but if they bind...

Warren

 

i will keep you guys posted , and how much I make

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The car SHOULD run lean at idle. Check the a/f ratio at idle on even a stock itr and you'll know what I'm talking about. THIS IS HOW YOU GET A GOOD IDLE WITH CAMS THAT HAVE LARGE PRIMARIES.

BTW, wtf are "toda spec 2" cams? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lean or stoich? Stock ITR idles at stoich....and runs partial throttle at stoich...

 

What kind of retainers do you have?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yunisden R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of retainers do you have?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does it matter?

 

to Black R, only positive and eager response to help an HT member out. First day back on this boards in a while and there are still stupid ********.

 

you are definately going to need to bump up thr fuel pressure to 50psi.

 

Yes it does, if you are running the JUN 4's you need the JUN type 2 retainers!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dear lord the idling problems are the least of your worries</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said earlier