CV Boot HELP!
I just got my alignment done and the guys at the shop tell and show me that my CV Boot on one side is completely torn and on the other side has rips in it and is about to go also. I know that this isn't something to take lightly, but he says I need new boots, drive axles, and something about a worn nut. The price he quotes me is over $300 bucks and that's for rebuilt units. The mechanic also says that after the swap is done, that another check of the alignment is needed which inclines me to just get the job done at the alignment place. Please enlighten me on the severity of this operation on my poor car! Is what the shop say accurate? Is the price reasonable? Does anyone know of any good shops that do this in Los Angeles? Any kind of advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
what kind of car do you have?...i got two axles out of a crx that are in good condition if you want them make me a deal...but to take them out and replace them its hella easy...but you need the right tools...you can rent them at kragen for free...
do you know a website that has detailed instruction on how to do it? which parts exactly should i change? which tools do i exactly need? where should i buy my parts? new or rebuilt? when you do get this done, do i actually need a new axle or is just the boots good enough? Is there anything else I should swap out while i'm under there? I'm new at this and I'd like to try to do it myself. Any kind of help or direction is appreciated. Thanks everyone.
oh yeah...and i have a 90 CRX si. I originally brought in the car b/c i raised my car up from neuspeed race springs to h&r oe sports. And this is the news they pop on me. Would have been nice if they told me that i needed this done BEFORE they did the alignment.
take off your wheel
use a 32mm socket to take off the large nut in the center of the brake rotor. you may need to put the car in gear(top keep the wheel from spinning, or use a wheel with a hole in the center, like a stock steelie with the center cap out) and use a breaker bar to get it off.
use a pair of plyers to pull out the pin on the 17mm crown nut on the bottom of the spindle assembly. it's right behind the bottom of the rotor. then...take off the 17mm nut.
use a ball joint seperator to pop the ball joint out of the lower control arm.
use a wooden stick (absorbs the shock of the blow) to pound the axle out of the hub.
use a screwdriver to pry the axle out of the crankcase.
you may need to take off the piece that bolts onto the bottom of the shock and to the lower control arm. it takes a 14mm socket for the top bolt on that and a 17mm socket for the bottom.
this will take some elbow grease and a couple hours since it's your first time, but it's really not all that hard. make sure to push the lip of the 32 mm axle nut into the notch on the end of the axle. also make sure the axle is pushed in all the way into the crankcase. good luck
OR, hit me up. i can get the parts, and do the labor for a decent price. the axles are under a bill each, you can get rebuilt ones with a warranty at autozone, and i'll do the labor for you. not even two hours and it'll be done. call me 714.348.9487 im in anaheim
[Modified by akachef, 10:24 PM 10/30/2001]
use a 32mm socket to take off the large nut in the center of the brake rotor. you may need to put the car in gear(top keep the wheel from spinning, or use a wheel with a hole in the center, like a stock steelie with the center cap out) and use a breaker bar to get it off.
use a pair of plyers to pull out the pin on the 17mm crown nut on the bottom of the spindle assembly. it's right behind the bottom of the rotor. then...take off the 17mm nut.
use a ball joint seperator to pop the ball joint out of the lower control arm.
use a wooden stick (absorbs the shock of the blow) to pound the axle out of the hub.
use a screwdriver to pry the axle out of the crankcase.
you may need to take off the piece that bolts onto the bottom of the shock and to the lower control arm. it takes a 14mm socket for the top bolt on that and a 17mm socket for the bottom.
this will take some elbow grease and a couple hours since it's your first time, but it's really not all that hard. make sure to push the lip of the 32 mm axle nut into the notch on the end of the axle. also make sure the axle is pushed in all the way into the crankcase. good luck
OR, hit me up. i can get the parts, and do the labor for a decent price. the axles are under a bill each, you can get rebuilt ones with a warranty at autozone, and i'll do the labor for you. not even two hours and it'll be done. call me 714.348.9487 im in anaheim
[Modified by akachef, 10:24 PM 10/30/2001]
all right. here's the low down. after i got the alignment done, the mechanic says one boot is ripped and the other is close to ripping. he recommends new drive axles and boots. today, i go to scott robinson honda in torrance and this is what she tells me: right outer c/v boot is torn open. replace both inner and outer c/v boots b/c grease is almost dry and can jeopardize the axle. left boots have deep cracks. her conclusion is that i probably don't need a new axle. Also says oil pan gasket has slight leak and should be replaced. also recommended new thermostat. Water pump also isn't working up to par and recommends replacement. NOW, i've purchased this car recently and I'm not too familiar on car repair. SO...i'd like to try to do these things myself (or with someone who has had experience doing this) and i need some help/advice. I was given quotes on parts' prices. Honda makes a C/V Boot kit $50 for each side. New gasket is $22. New thermostat is $15. new water pump is $62. Questions: With limited car repair knowledge, can I do these things on my own? If so, which tools do i need. And where can i find some instruction or direction on getting these things done? Also, are there better aftermarket replacement parts for the above? I'll call you tomorrow akachef too about meeting up to get this ish done. Maybe we can do it all. Anyhow, any other advice would help too. Thanks again everyone.
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