Does anyone know how to remove a tie-rod with out destroying the car? Anything would be helpful.-Thanks-

 

is it inner or outer

 

get a haynes or something,get a smith and wesson find the bolt and shoot it..no seriously you loosen the bolt on the crossmember then the 2 bolts on the lower control arm and then remove all the bolts and the rod(while your at it put in some new bushings)...good luck dood

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spaceman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a haynes or something,get a smith and wesson find the bolt and shoot it..no seriously you loosen the bolt on the crossmember then the 2 bolts on the lower control arm and then remove all the bolts and the rod(while your at it put in some new bushings)...good luck dood</TD></TR></TABLE>

the tie rod is a steering component. what you just described was the radius rod.

on the steering knuckle remove the cotter pin on the rear upper tab. then remove the nut. take a hammer and hit the knuckle (not the tie rod) to break it free. pop the end of the tie rod up and out. douse the jam nut with rust penetrant. have a glass of juice and wait a few minutes. go back to it and back the jam nut up the rack a little bit. tehn take that actual tie rod off. it too may be a little seized on there but a little more rust penetrant and another glass of jucie can fix that. count how many turns/threads it was on there so when you do the alignment it isn't miles off. reassemble the same way it came off but obviously backwards.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the tie rod is a steering component. what you just described was the radius rod.

on the steering knuckle remove the cotter pin on the rear upper tab. then remove the nut. take a hammer and hit the knuckle (not the tie rod) to break it free. pop the end of the tie rod up and out. douse the jam nut with rust penetrant. have a glass of juice and wait a few minutes. go back to it and back the jam nut up the rack a little bit. tehn take that actual tie rod off. it too may be a little seized on there but a little more rust penetrant and another glass of jucie can fix that. count how many turns/threads it was on there so when you do the alignment it isn't miles off. reassemble the same way it came off but obviously backwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Except I loosen the jam nuts first.

 

sorry about that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Except I loosen the jam nuts first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah...some people have better luck loosening the nut while there is less ability for the tie rod to move because it is still held in place. i usually take 2 wrenches and squeeze together like a scissor handle. one wrench on the tie rod and the other on the jam nut.

either way works and gets the job done.

 

A torch works wonders if not try a cut off wheel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HndGoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A torch works wonders if not try a cut off wheel </TD></TR></TABLE>

a torch...yes and no. heating it up does help break them free sometimes. a cutting torch to get it off...bad idea. you will probably need a new rack tehn.

cutting wheel...just a bad idea in general. cutting down an old exhaust is one thing but a steering component is just bad.

 

Thanks!! !!