i'm a newb.
got a 99 civic ex. keep throwing a code 9 or 90. check everything for a code 9 and everything checks out fine. made sure the gas cap was on tight(3 clicks) and checked all the vacuum lines to the fuel canister. everything looks fine. does anyone know how to check the actual canister to see if that's the problem, or how to check the solenoid in the canister? the CEL is starting to annoy me, and i notice when the CEL is on my car tends to eat more fuel. i've read through alot of posts on here and tried everything i saw. just looking for any extra help or input. thanks.

update....

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alright.....i'm getting sick of my car and this light.
New bypass solenoid.....$90
not the problem, light came back on.
New PCV valve.....$2.50...
not the problem, light came back on
New fuel filter....$40
not the problem, light came back on
New gas cap
not the problem, light came back on
retightened gas cap
not the problem, light came back on
now i'm on my last straw. it's still giving me 9 flashes, appear to be 9 long flashes...each flash is the same length as the other. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!! before i blow up my car in anger.

is it possible maybe a bad o2 sensor is causing this?

Modified by xroadrashx at 4:58 AM 5/18/2004


UPDATE again.......

used one of the scan tool things....it read the code....as a leak in the canister area....so it's not in the tank area. the scan tool said this exactly...."P1457 Manufacturer Control. Auxiliary emissions controls"

who knows


Modified by xroadrashx at 4:29 AM 5/20/2004

 

bump for my buddy who' s a n00b and getting 'the bug'

 

most likely a 9 which you'll need to change dist. if you have a friend that has same motor try their dist and see if that will cure the problem

 

dizzy is only a year old. and i tested the dizzy using a multimeter and tested it for the 350-700 ohms. it was all normal, so i'm assuming the dizzy is fine. no idea

 

anyone? please help?!!!

 

do you have a swap? Are you sure it's not code 91? Code 91 is for the gas tank pressure sensor.

 

don't have a swap. pretty sure it's not a 91....i get 9 long flashes. oh yeah. and walls of jericho kick ***.....sucks i was kicked out of their show dancing after waiting a few years for them to get back together


Modified by xroadrashx at 5:28 PM 4/23/2004

 

Pull the negative off for ten minutes, if it was the gas take this will clear the code, sometimes you have to meet a certain criteria for the code to go off, usually three trips, but if you pull the ground it should clear this, and remember (4 clicks)

 

i always go 3-4 clicks... i have reset the code. it still goes off about a week after i have reset it.

 

I've seen a few bad bypass solenoid valves on them. Honda has a bulletin on that. The only way I can think to test it without Hondas scantool is to see if it clicks while applying power and ground to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen a few bad bypass solenoid valves on them. Honda has a bulletin on that. The only way I can think to test it without Hondas scantool is to see if it clicks while applying power and ground to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks...i'll have to try that. bypass solenoid is on the canister right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xroadrashx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks...i'll have to try that. bypass solenoid is on the canister right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it's by the gas tank next to the fuel tank presure sensor. left side

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xroadrashx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did it test good?

 

solenoid seems good to me. i'm gonna test it again tomorrow after i've driven it for awhile....maybe bad ground or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95b16hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull the negative off for ten minutes, if it was the gas take this will clear the code, sometimes you have to meet a certain criteria for the code to go off, usually three trips, but if you pull the ground it should clear this, and remember (4 clicks) </TD></TR></TABLE>


doesn't work. CEL comes back 1-2 days after i clear codes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, it's by the gas tank next to the fuel tank presure sensor. left side</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok is it on top of the fuel tank? or should i be able to reach it just by jacking the car up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xroadrashx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok is it on top of the fuel tank? or should i be able to reach it just by jacking the car up? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's at the left front corner, you should be able to see it. (It may be under a small cover. i get the different years and models mixed up)

 

i went to test the purge solenoid. hooked a vacuum gauge up to it. turned the engine on (cold engine)....there was no vacuum like there should be. then i let the engine warm up, and it's supposed to have vacuum on it once engine is warmed up. but there was still no vacuum. i took the solenoid off and hooked 12vdc to it and it would open no problem. i tested the connection under the hood and it's got 13.9 volts coming off it so the solenoid should be opening, but it's not. so now i don't know if this problem is caused by the bypass solenoid, or if my purge solenoid or connections are bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xroadrashx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i tested the connection under the hood and it's got 13.9 volts coming off it so the solenoid should be opening, but it's not. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Voltage should always be going to it. Then the ECU supplies ground to energize it.
It's not always energized. Like I said earlier, diagnosing these evap systems is really tough without a Honda scantool. If the purge solenoid is good, I would move on to something else.

 

stupid emissions......stupid tree hugging hippies and their emissions crap
ARRRRRR

 

holy pirate talk

Its ok Matt, just bring it in to the dealer if you are still under warranty

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AztecEJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that will be me soon enough. except i'll have more scurvy.

 

all right.. i dropped the gas tank yesterday just to pull the damn solenoid off. pulled the solenoid off... and tested it. it was letting air in without voltage attached, and then again when voltage was attached. bought a new solenoid $87$ at the nearest Honda dealer. new solenoid installed, everything reassembled, and the ecu has been reset. i'm about to go out and drive it, fill up the gas tank and so forth. if the CEL light comes back on, i will be driving my car off a cliff.

 

Ok i put new bypass solenoid on...... reset the codes..... code popped back up a day after i put the new bypass solenoid on.....so i just flushed 90$ down the toilet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xroadrashx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok i put new bypass solenoid on...... reset the codes..... code popped back up a day after i put the new bypass solenoid on.....so i just flushed 90$ down the toilet</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sucks. If the old valve was bad, it's possible it took out the ECU to. I really don't know how to test for that without a scantool. Or there could be another problem also.