Questions regarding modifications and expected performance.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
I know some of you guys will probably roll your eyes as questions like mine are not exactly rare, but they are specific and I value the opinion of Honda-Tech's comminuty higher than any other on this subject. If youre one of those types I described I reccomend you read no further 
I'm about to purchase a DC2R (Australian model) and I have freinds with cars that are quite fast. They have basically zero respect for hondas, as here in Australia, a fast honda is considered 14-15 seconds. Our fastest nat-atmo honda is ALLMTR (I'm sure he's member here) with a 12.8, which is leaps and bounds faster than any competition.
I've done some research this forum amoungst others, and I hear of multiple stories of R's hitting twelves with very minimalist modifications. Im not sure how realistic they are, but I have an idea of whats realistic for what I'm after.
Hitting 12's (12.8-12.9) semi stripped, on slicks/drag radials with the exhuast dropped would be my goal without ripping the motor apart. Would raise quite a few eyebrows here, I'm sure. (Basic weight reduction such as draining the washer bottle, removing tools/trash, rear seats and the passenger seat. Carpets, mirrors, etc will definetly stay intact)
The car in mind already comes with Mugen 4-2-1's, the rest of the exhaust system is aftermarket but of unknown origin. It has no cat. The standard airbox is in place with a K&N panel filter - Is this too restrictive to stay in place?
Cam gears are on the shopping list and as they all do the same thing, I'll get the ones that come up at the right time for the right price. The clutch is a similar story, and a lightened flywheel will be replaced at the same time as the clutch.
A thinner head gasket to add a few points or so to my C/R is also one of my planned modifications as its by far the cheapest way (98 octane pump fuel is readily available to me, as are two race fuels
).
Is a good aftermarket ignition system vital? If so what do you suggest I use?
I've heard JUN stage 3 cams are the ones im after for outright power, but on a standard motor im assuming they would be way too wild. What would be the most powerful cams I can get my hands on that will work in unison with an internally standard motor (still retaining vtec of course)?
Taking into account most decent cams will require replacement valvetrain parts anyway, how hard can I rev a standard bottom end semi-safley?
An apexi PFC is in mind for running the whole thing.
Will this be enough to dip into the 12's? I'm confident that my driving skills are up to scratch.
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm dying to know!
Thanks!

I'm about to purchase a DC2R (Australian model) and I have freinds with cars that are quite fast. They have basically zero respect for hondas, as here in Australia, a fast honda is considered 14-15 seconds. Our fastest nat-atmo honda is ALLMTR (I'm sure he's member here) with a 12.8, which is leaps and bounds faster than any competition.
I've done some research this forum amoungst others, and I hear of multiple stories of R's hitting twelves with very minimalist modifications. Im not sure how realistic they are, but I have an idea of whats realistic for what I'm after.
Hitting 12's (12.8-12.9) semi stripped, on slicks/drag radials with the exhuast dropped would be my goal without ripping the motor apart. Would raise quite a few eyebrows here, I'm sure. (Basic weight reduction such as draining the washer bottle, removing tools/trash, rear seats and the passenger seat. Carpets, mirrors, etc will definetly stay intact)
The car in mind already comes with Mugen 4-2-1's, the rest of the exhaust system is aftermarket but of unknown origin. It has no cat. The standard airbox is in place with a K&N panel filter - Is this too restrictive to stay in place?
Cam gears are on the shopping list and as they all do the same thing, I'll get the ones that come up at the right time for the right price. The clutch is a similar story, and a lightened flywheel will be replaced at the same time as the clutch.
A thinner head gasket to add a few points or so to my C/R is also one of my planned modifications as its by far the cheapest way (98 octane pump fuel is readily available to me, as are two race fuels
).Is a good aftermarket ignition system vital? If so what do you suggest I use?
I've heard JUN stage 3 cams are the ones im after for outright power, but on a standard motor im assuming they would be way too wild. What would be the most powerful cams I can get my hands on that will work in unison with an internally standard motor (still retaining vtec of course)?
Taking into account most decent cams will require replacement valvetrain parts anyway, how hard can I rev a standard bottom end semi-safley?
An apexi PFC is in mind for running the whole thing.
Will this be enough to dip into the 12's? I'm confident that my driving skills are up to scratch.
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm dying to know!
Thanks!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
If drag racing was the cars primary objective, it wouldent stay naturally aspirated. There is also no way I would choose a honda (or FWD.. or even AWD for that matter).
My goal with the car is make it rewarding and fun to drive. My favorite tracks, the circuits close to me (Phillip Island for example) are very fast. Decent power is essential on circuits this open.
The car will still definetly go drag racing.
My goal with the car is make it rewarding and fun to drive. My favorite tracks, the circuits close to me (Phillip Island for example) are very fast. Decent power is essential on circuits this open.
The car will still definetly go drag racing.
You can probably hit high 12's w/ the setup you've selected, completely stripped w/ drag radials. Also, the aftermarket ignition sysem is definitely not essential. The stock ignition system can roughly handle up to 300whp. I'd figure out what type of exhaust you're dealing w/ and make sure it's the right one for your application. Good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Domokun SPL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My goal with the car is make it rewarding and fun to drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The ITR is rewarding and fun to drive in stock form. Learn to drive a stock R first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My favorite tracks, the circuits close to me (Phillip Island for example) are very fast. Decent power is essential on circuits this open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't believe anyone can just run at Phillip Island. Looks like you need a CAMS license. Who does driving schools there? This is a world-class facility we are talking about here.
The ITR is rewarding and fun to drive in stock form. Learn to drive a stock R first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My favorite tracks, the circuits close to me (Phillip Island for example) are very fast. Decent power is essential on circuits this open.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't believe anyone can just run at Phillip Island. Looks like you need a CAMS license. Who does driving schools there? This is a world-class facility we are talking about here.
ill tell you the setup i had, and it was a 12 sec car, well would of been if it didnt blow up
ITR head, full port and polish, Jun cams/gears/springs retainers. ITR valves.
2.0L bottom end, 11.5CR pistons. oh and a JDM R valve cover with matching oil cap
ITR head, full port and polish, Jun cams/gears/springs retainers. ITR valves.
2.0L bottom end, 11.5CR pistons. oh and a JDM R valve cover with matching oil cap
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Domokun SPL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
An apexi PFC is in mind for running the whole thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
An apexi PFC is in mind for running the whole thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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