Hey everyone

I am posting up my saga on turbocharging the D16Y5. Not looking for praise or anything. Just my experiences with my install and making getting some info easier for people to acces by searching for the engine code or whatever. Not many folks stick with the Y5 so if I can help someoen else with some info...it will be all worth it...

So anyway


Day 1 & 2-Spent the better part of day 1 from 6-930 looking up how to wire up the SAFC. Between looking at incorrect ecu pinouts and the HORRIBLE to read wiring schematic in the back of my cheap *** haynes manual So anyway the apexi website says that all D16 use the H7-A wiring for the SAFC. (this was in an update made available in 2000 I beleive) so I am looking at ECU pinouts and the wiring info and the **** isnt adding up. So I remove the ECU and what do you know. The HX DOESNT HAVE 4 PINOUTS. It has 3. So that means I had to use wiring shematic H6-A. So i figured that out and everything went smooth. Took about an hour to strip and wire everything up. Pretty straightforward. It turned on and I initialized it. Just a note.....the SAFC doesnt notify that initialization is complete. Once you click yes, it goes back to the main menu. You are supposed to turn the ignition off and then on again to make teh settings. Got a CEL. Code was 0 (Faulty PCM). I cleared it and let the ar idle for a few minutes and drove around...no more CEL. Then a friend stopped by so I stopped there. Tomorrow will bring the unbolting of the exahust and probably wiring up the injectors and resistor box.

 

awesome This is just what we need is more people working with the y5. I'll probabally keep mine till it dies. I wanna get a truck to help keep the mileage down. Right now it has 143,000 miles and still runs as good when I got it, it had 67,000 then. Oh and I love my roller rockers too good for higher revs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kista20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome This is just what we need is more people working with the y5. I'll probabally keep mine till it dies. I wanna get a truck to help keep the mileage down. Right now it has 143,000 miles and still runs as good when I got it, it had 67,000 then. Oh and I love my roller rockers too good for higher revs </TD></TR></TABLE>

After my last swap I was ordered never to do it again unless the original engine was broken...LOL The only worthwhile swap to is a C5 but I dotn have 4G's PLUS to do it. Besides I have ridden in a 176rwhp boosted 2700lb car, and I am aiming for the same in a 2300lb car so it should be just as fun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

After my last swap I was ordered never to do it again unless the original engine was broken...LOL The only worthwhile swap to is a C5 but I dotn have 4G's PLUS to do it. Besides I have ridden in a 176rwhp boosted 2700lb car, and I am aiming for the same in a 2300lb car so it should be just as fun</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd say a lot more It's a lot of fun riding in my friend's boosted 99 si

 

good stuff with the y5, i got the greddy kit mated up to the y5, just running walbro 255, and 12:1 fmu. at 6psi it pulls. i know its not the most efficient...

i first had the vafc hooked up but something was not letting me rev past 4k. i was tinkering with the wires and decided not to hook up the vtec wire from the vafc and that fixed the problem and let me rev past 4k. i also had lude 290cc injectors in. took it to the dyno, and past 5.5k wasn't really making power it was more eratic... my tuner told me the vafc was screwing something up.

so i took off the vafc, took out the lude injectors and went back to stock injectors and let the fmu handle the fuel. been running like this for maybe past year and half and no problems.

heres a link to my past post after i got back from dyno...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=261353

i gotta find the pics of my dyno sheet, and upload it again.. but at 5psi it was around 125hp, and 150ftlb torque.

now my y5 is just sitting the way it is...saving up for another proj.
power to the y5

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specv5150 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

After my last swap I was ordered never to do it again unless the original engine was broken...LOL The only worthwhile swap to is a C5 but I dotn have 4G's PLUS to do it. Besides I have ridden in a 176rwhp boosted 2700lb car, and I am aiming for the same in a 2300lb car so it should be just as fun</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should be able to make, at least 200whp. a freind of mine had a junk yard gehtto *** HX turbo and he put down 167whp and 169wtq, or something like that, and that setup was gehtto as ****. i suggest you don't cheap out and buy even the basic hondata and get it tuned right that will save you alot of headachs

 

good luck. id like to see more turbod y5s.

 

Yeah it would be nice to get hondata but then I would have to buy a OBDI harness, P28 and I know there was a guy who said the car would prolly run like crap due to the different ECu fuel maps. So I decided to go with the hack.

 

Back again

Day 2-
This day was spent pulling off the splashguards (or whatever that **** is called) and unbolting the exhaust. I got the exhaust unbolted to include the exhaust manifold but ran into a tiny problem. I dont have a tool to unbolt the fricking o2 sensors. So the exhaust is kinda chilling in the engine bay. So I waited a few days and moved on to

Day 3-Injectors
This took me about 5 hours and I am not even done. First I disconnected the battery and unbolted the FPR and some other thing that is connected to the fuel rail. Then I removed the fuel rail and wired up the DSM. The wiring was straight from HT. Pretty straightforward. After dropping the bolt to screw the fuel rail back in AT LEAST 30 times, I got everything bolted back up. Hit anotyher snag. I have fuel leaks like no other . I started at 1000....I am posting this at 2:20. I think I am going to take a break and then go back out and re-install everything. This is why you should ALWAYS install one thing at a time. That way you can fix anythign that goes wrong one at a time as opposed to having a fuel leak and a ton of other things to fix that could be related

 

Me being in the military ATTENTION TO DETAIL is kind of something we look at. I should have noticed that whne I pulled the fuel rail the stock injectors MAGICALLY stayed in while the DSM's didnt. I went to recheck my work and voila there was NO O RINGS ON THE DSM's!!!!! I used the stock ones for now and damn check that out....no more leak

 

Get this back up

Anyway havent upfated in awhile. Got the intercooler bolted up along with the turbo and whatnot. That was surprsingly easy. Drilling the oil pan was cake too. First time using JB Weld........I LOVE THAT ****!!! Anyway it was time to crank the car over. Crank it and it comes on........EXCEPT I LOSE HALF MY OIL. I get back under make sure everything is tightened. Re-applied teflon tape. connect it back up.....still got an oil leak. Come back 3 days later redo everything AGAIN STILL have an oil leak. I give up. I am taking that **** to someone let them worry about it. Oil is really starting to **** me off.

 

so where is the oil leak coming from? the oil pan tap? or somewhere else? are you using only jb weld for the oil return to the pan?

 

the oil pan is good. The leak or should I say waterfall type of pour is coming from the feed line/tuner toy fitting/oil sending unit. I used teflon tape. Tightened that **** down....I am just going to have it towed and let the mechanics deal with it. I have been playing with oil for the better part of 4 days or so and I am done

 

Did you ever get this done or what?