If anyone could let us know how much ABOUT this costs, and what exactly needs to be done to the block would help, what kinda head gasket to use, and what a safe redline would be before warping the crankshaft. And one more thing, if i buy a balanced crankshaft, connecting rod, piston combo which is capable of 10000 rpms, what kinda head work could i get to match that?

 

Just curious...why would you want to go to ten thousand rpm's? Do you have cams that can make power that high?

As for everything. Don't expect to have any less than $3500 invested in the setup (assuming you already have the LS engine) for it to be as reliable as a factory VTEC engine. You have the initial cost of the VTEC head and appropriate lines, gasket, fittings, etc. which will cost seven to eight hundred bucks if you find a good B16 head and buy the Golden Eagle kit. You will need to have the crank balanced, and either run forged internals, or have oil squirters machined into the LS block. Don't forget to get a new timing belt and water pump as well as replace all of the major seals in the engine. Also consider the cost of the bearings in the engine and any additional machine work that may need to be done. There is a lot to think about when building an LS/VTEC. Good luck with the project.

 

Dam dude, thats alot to worry about, i was just wondering about 10 grand rpms. The cams i dont know if they make power THAT high, But if you could let me know the least i need to just put a b16 head on and have it work. My dad is a machinest and knows a shitload about gaskets, timing and the rest of that. But JUST for putting the head on and having it works, much appreciation for your reply THANKS!!!!

 

search around, there are about 34097560 threads on ls/vtec.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WiLLMaTiX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dam dude, thats alot to worry about, i was just wondering about 10 grand rpms. The cams i dont know if they make power THAT high, But if you could let me know the least i need to just put a b16 head on and have it work. My dad is a machinest and knows a shitload about gaskets, timing and the rest of that. But JUST for putting the head on and having it works, much appreciation for your reply THANKS!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just throwing the head on there will work, however I would fear for the longevity of the engine.

 

your gona need to machine a knock sensor in to the block and also you gota plug the oil line on the head and reroute it from the filter adapter or from the oil pressure sender.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/

^^^ is a howto on ls/vtec and cr/vtec

 

why would u want to be able to shift a 10k rpms u will lose power reving that high

 

i payed

arp rod bolts $30
resize rods for the bolts $50
renotch rods for gsr/itr rod bearings $30
balance rotating assemble $160
b16 pistons $200
arp head bolts $120

if u want to rev to 10k
yours going to need after market rods $300-500
sleeved block $1000
cams that make power to 10k like sk2 stage 3's or something like that $700-1000
valve train $400

but if i were you i would just do a set up like mine
to do everything right will all new parts in the motor
new bearings, vtec oil pump . water pump , timing belt, gaskets and everything new your going to spend 5,000+
but this will beat any itr motor like nothing and you will have a new motor

 

What if he was just gonna rev too like 7k once or twice a week?And he didnt care about internal work at the moment?Would that work and still maintain nice daily drivability?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your gona need to machine a knock sensor in to the block</TD></TR></TABLE>

What for? He would probably run it off of a chipped P28 which doesn't facilitate knock sensors anyway.