Scenario - replaced rotor/pads few weeks ago due to sever scraping of rotor. Recently hearing metal on metal homing (know what i mean?).

Theory - What we discovered upon changed the rotor was that the screws you normally need the impact driver for were not screwed into anything...the part they are screwed into is the part i need to know where/what to find. They were replaced with another part that does not have openings for those screws...i believe this is what is causing the rubbing...

Help?

 

You don't need the screws, you can take them off. As far as the name of the thing your talking about is it the hub unit ?

 

Thanks. I wonder whats causing that rubbing then? why would you say you don't need it though? I figure the wheel and rotor holds it all together pretty good...but still....hmm....

I only hear the rubbing going into corners.

 

The screws only hold the rotor on when the lugs are off, when you have the lug nuts on they hold the rotor in place.

 

are you sure the rubbing is coming from the brakes? is the car lowered or aftermarket rims? maybe something is rubbing on the fender liners?

 

If new rotors? Normal I believe
What type of rotors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by issues4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. I wonder whats causing that rubbing then? why would you say you don't need it though? I figure the wheel and rotor holds it all together pretty good...but still....hmm....

I only hear the rubbing going into corners.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dont use it then you need to toqrue down the lug nuts. Good way to avoid warpage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCV-TechRider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you dont use it then you need to toqrue down the lug nuts. Good way to avoid warpage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and when your car runs out of gas, you should fill it up.

also, if your tyres have no air in them, you should put some air in.

and more obvious info.


you should ALWAYS torque your wheels down, regardless of those rotor screws.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and when your car runs out of gas, you should fill it up.

also, if your tyres have no air in them, you should put some air in.

and more obvious info.


you should ALWAYS torque your wheels down, regardless of those rotor screws. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol
Bad day I guess
You know not everyone knows about torquing down their wheels.
Or is the Vegas heat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you should ALWAYS torque your wheels down, regardless of those rotor screws. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You beat me to it.

 

I'll take a shot at torquing the nuts on tighter, i'm doubting their loose...but i've done dummer things in my life.

 

80 ft-lbs
In the Haynes manual.

 

how bad is the rubbing noise.. does it sound like metal or does it sound like rubber.. could it be your bushings?? does it only rub on curtain turns (left/right)? does it rub after a curtain amount of drive (heat diff in the assembly)? i don't know.. hard to say...

 

its not that, but bad enough to know its not suppose to happen. its a metal rubbing noise. like i said only on tight right hand turns. rear left squeaks.

don't know if driving time is related...i'll have to try to take notice of that.