Yes I know there are 5 topics when you search and I have read them all. My question is What do I all need for the prelude? DO I need to get new master/slave cylinders? and about the brake lines why is it necessary to get the lines out of a S model? Whats the difference? and do I need to run the lines to the rear as well? and what do I do with this valve type thing and where can i get one? Thanks alot haha kinda alot of questions.

 

Glad you posted this, I just finished mine today. It was a LOT more work than I thought it would be....I'll get pics tommorrow....

Get this stuff from the junkyard to save lots of money....

Stuff you need--

-Prelude S brake hard lines (6 total), or custom bend your own from Autozone/OReilly
-Prelude S proportioning valve
-Prelude S master cylinder
-Prelude S brake booster
-Prelude S brake pedal bracket(the thing that connects the pedal to the back of the booster pushrod) Why the **** that has to be different I don't know, but it is....
-Lots of time...

It's easier with the engine out, but I did it with it in and it sucked...

1. Remove the ABS unit. There's 4 bolts holding the bastard in. Some have to be accessed from below. The easiest thing is to cut the brake lines going into the ABS thing where they screw in....If you can't get the unit out...stop now...

2. Now that the unit is out, remove all of the brake hard lines from the rest of the engine compartment. There's a ton, just cut them out and throw them away...

3. Now remove the proportioning valve, other hard lines from the m. cylinder and then remove the master cylinder. The S cylinder is different from the SI/VTEC because one of the threads is bigger...

4. This part SUX. Remove the brake booster...What a pain in the ***!! Whatever bastard thought of this crap needs to die. The ABS booster is different from the non-ABS..WTF?? Anyhow, it's very hard to get out. Unbolt it from inside where the brake pedal is(4 screws)....and then pull the thing out. I had to remove my plenum and some other crap and still pull and twist....

5. Install all the parts from the S model: Do the lines and prop. valve first, then the booster and m. cylinder....Don't forget the pedal/booster attachment thing from the S....

6. Rear lines...you can bend the SI/VTEC ones if you're good, but it's not easy, cuz they don't match up either....nor is it easy to install the S ones....so pick which one you want to do.....or "theoretically" you could just plug up the back ones temporarily...but no one would ever do that, would they....

7. Fill reservior, bleed brakes, check for leaks, drive car and make sure everything is OK.


Congrats, you just saved about 25lbs (I weighed the thing), and cleaned up the engine bay dramatically...

Side note: Vinyl tubing does NOT work to repair a cut brake line, and junkyard m. cylinders with rust a'plenty don't work to well. If you can, get new OEM stuff, but rebuilt from the parts store is OK, too....Oh, and flaring a brake line properly is extremely difficult....

Any other ?'s just ask....


Modified by Hawkze_56 at 3:27 AM 4/13/2004


Modified by Hawkze_56 at 4:06 AM 4/13/2004

 

Oh, ****!, I forgot...Get a set of Flare Nut Wrenches for the brake lines, or else you're screwed! 10mm....

 

Wow Id say that is a big process. For the brake lines do I need to run the lines all the way to the back wheels as well?

 

no....keep those the way they were, just hook up the p.v. to the lines that connected to the abs unit and run 2 lines from the p.v. to the master cylinder.

 

Why get rid of ABS? After getting in a wreck and about dying because of not having ABS on my old 90 Accord, I have learned to respect the ABS system. When you go into a "lock up" while slamming on the brake pedal with out ABS, you will do nothing but slide and a good driver will tell you, there is not control when you are sliding. With ABS my tires would not have locked up and i would not have slid, thus for i would not have totaled my car. Sure you can pulse non-ABS brakes while trying to stop without sliding, but do you honestly think you will be able to think of that when you are trying not to wreck or hit someone else. I mean do what you want with ABS, not my car, just giving you guys my opinion how I think ABS is a good feature! No hard feelings either!

 

I aggree with jdmlude_dude. Why would you want to remove it? When I autocross my prelude I'm really glad it has ABS. Just curious....
-Mike-

 

Its is a good question.......why remove it?

When I bought my 95 Si model it came with the ABS light on constantly. I tried a few things like topping off the two resiviors and checking the fluid level sensors, and resetting the ABS system, nothing worked. I dont have a huge sum of money to be fixin my car, so I just pulled the light out of the dash indicator.

Are people trying to save weight by removing the ABS? Why else? Will a non working ABS system be more dangerous in an extreme braking situation over a NON abs setup?

What usually goes bad on these setups anyway?
wheel speed sensors? accumulator pumps.............

 

if the light was still in there, you could hook up the jumpers like checking engine codes. the abs light blinks telling you what is wrong

 

i took mine out for weight, and to clean up the engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92LudeSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Wow Id say that is a big process. For the brake lines do I need to run the lines all the way to the back wheels as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can use the back lines that were there for the ABS, but they don't fit the non-ABS prop. valve unless you bend them a little...

I took it out for weight and a clean bay, too. That, and I've never had to use it in 3 years of driving 70 miles a day...

 

what tools are required to flare & Thread your own brake lines?

what diameter lines are used on the VTEC master cylinder, vs. the S?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what tools are required to flare & Thread your own brake lines?

what diameter lines are used on the VTEC master cylinder, vs. the S?</TD></TR></TABLE>

To flare lines you need a flaring tool. They're about $20 at an auto parts place. Hondas have double flares, so make sure you get a double flare tool....They don't need to be threaded, just be sure to put the nut on before flaring...

It is not a hard concept, but to get a perfect flare requires some kind of skill which I don't have.....all of the lines I flared were off-center and leaked....

The SI/VTEC have the same diameter lines as the S, but one of the threaded nuts that go into the master cylinder is larger on the SI/VTEC. That's why you have to change m. cylinders.....

 

The reason I am asking this is because for one My ABS has not worked for about 2 years now. I drive my car in the winter and i hate the abs because you can not control a slide as much or atleast i feel more comfortable controling it myself. I have taken it to get looked at and the estimated cost to get fixed was over $100. The second reason is I like a clean engine bay and the preludes is pretty crammed. So if I can get rid of the ABS stuff I dont use it helps clean it up a bit in my opinion. Now I know alot of u are going to say to keep it and all that but thats u. last summer i had a close call and i know for a fact if i had abs i would have rearended the person. Anyways thanks for all the good info and does anyone have all this stuff i need

 

i'm still looking for a prelude s proportioning valve.

 

If your ABS light popped on when you started rolling, then it is a speed sensor or maybe one of you axles does not have the ABS rings on it. I found out that i had an axle out of a 90 accord so it did not have ABS rings on it. Therefor, i was throwing an ABS code. I have yet to put in a new axle cause i have no money!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killa_lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm still looking for a prelude s proportioning valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Should be easy to find at any import junkyard

 

yeah we dont have a import junk yard near by where i live, i would have to drive 200 miles. i will pay someone $120 if they get me a prelude s proportioning valve and a prelude s master cylinder from a junkyard!!

 

you can get both brand new for about $150

 

Yeah, don't get a junkyard M cylinder....They're usually dirty and rusted, just go with new ones....You can get the MC from an auto parts place, and maybe even the prop valve....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get both brand new for about $150</TD></TR></TABLE>

where can i get these new from?

 

i dont think you need a different master cyl.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think you need a different master cyl.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, not necessarily, but you either have to have the new MC, or reflare a brake hard line....which is harder than I thought...

 

yeah i wasnt going to replace the mc but then i realized that one of the break lines off of the mc for a h22 is a 12mm and the other is a 10. 12 mm 1.0 thread pitch fittings are literally impossible to fine. i would need to get a 12mm line from honda then put a 12 to 10mm fitting on so i could connect it to the prop valve.

 

ugh not looking forward to doing this but will be soon.