Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Piston slap

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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 12:45 PM
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Firewalker's Avatar
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Default Piston slap

Hi all,

My 94 civic has piston slap which is getting progressively worse. What would the cost be roughly to get this repaired?

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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 01:15 PM
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TorganFM.'s Avatar
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Default Re: Piston slap (Firewalker)

Run the next level up of octane. A tune-up shouldn't be more than a few hundred dollars at the most.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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Default Re: Piston slap (DanW)

That would be fine if the piston slap was going away after 1 min or whatever. My civic's piston slap dosen't stop after the engine is warmed up. I was told that I would need new pistons and the cylinders rebored. Just curious as to what the cost should be and also if there's any additives I could put in it to give some more time.

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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 01:28 PM
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ok is it piston slap or rod knock ... diffrent things here ... piston slap is a normal thing with forged pistons
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 01:45 PM
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Default Re: (Sprfreek)

I took the car to a honda dealership and they told me it was piston slap for sure. The knocking went away as per normal before after the car warmed up but now it's there all of the time.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 01:50 PM
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what motor ? what is done to it?
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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Default Re: (Sprfreek)

Stock motor for a 94 civic cx. Nothing done to it modification wise. It needed a new head gasket 1 year ago last december. The noise was there before though so it made no difference.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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Default Re: (Firewalker)

I'm kind of curious under what conditions you notice this. Could you please describe the rpm range and noises? I've got an odd noise that I've been trying to track down and am wondering if it might be what you describe. Thanks for your time.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:26 PM
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Default Re: (Firewalker)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Firewalker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock motor for a 94 civic cx. Nothing done to it modification wise..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rod knock.

If its already knocking, not much you can do to "Fix" it within a reasonable cost.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 02:33 PM
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Default Re: (no_one_)

The noise is heard right from when the car is started. My car is getting so bad it's starting to sound like a diesel.

The sound is more noticeable when the car is idling and accelerating. It used to be more evident in the winter.

My first thought was the valves but I had them adjusted and they were near perfect.

I was told to just keep driving it until I started burning oil basically. I was going to get it fixed here soon regardless since I'm planning long trips and would rather not get stuck somewhere. :-)
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:48 PM
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Default Re: (Firewalker)

it sounds like a rod knock to me. piston slap with the stock cast pistons will be minimal if any. piston slap is associated with forged aftermarket pistons and usually only during warm-up.

does the sound get louder as the rpm raise?
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 01:38 PM
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Default Re: (blueturbo4door)

Yeah, the noise does increase somewhat as I accelerate uphill but not on a flat surface.


Assuming it is rod knock how much roughly would it cost to fix?
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 01:52 PM
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Default

you'd be better of trying to buy someone's old short block and just throwing it in ... other wise your looking at a bottom end rebuild for the most part ..

or the shady tree mechanic way is to take thw oil pan windage tray off .. and stick a pice of carbord on the knocking rod in the bearing area i'll work for a cupple months then the cardbord deteriorates
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 04:50 PM
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Default Re: (Sprfreek)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sprfreek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or the shady tree mechanic way is to take thw oil pan windage tray off .. and stick a pice of carbord on the knocking rod in the bearing area i'll work for a cupple months then the cardbord deteriorates </TD></TR></TABLE>

never heard of this, nor do i think it would even last a couple months.

i know some people are so cheap that they pull the pan, undo the rod cap and just slap a new bearing in without machining the crack

you should be able to find a stock short block for 100-200 bucks with fairly low miles.
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