ive never done it myself before, and decided it was time for me to learn.
read the tech artical a dozen times over on teamintegra, got all the tools, and went at it.


i'm having one hell of a time getting the bolt off that secures the lower part of the bracket that the caliper connects to. i used various lengths of pipe to try and get more torque but with no sucess. i tried some wd-40 to help loosen it up but that didn't work either. i dont have access to air tools so ow can i get it off?

also, the screws that hold the rotor in place, dont seem to want to budge.
i tried pounding the **** out of the end of the screw driver while twisting but it got me no where either.

anybpody have some tips for me?
i put it back together with the old rotors stil on and the new pads (i know it's not safe, but it's only temp to get me back to automotive store if i need to)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hott-nix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

also, the screws that hold the rotor in place, dont seem to want to budge.
i tried pounding the **** out of the end of the screw driver while twisting but it got me no where either.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need a screw driver that you hit with a hammer to turn it i think an impact screwdriver is what its called , you wont get the screw off with out it and you will just mess the screw up trying . . . as for the rest just get a breaker bar and some strength and you should get it off and maybe some PBC BLASTER . . .

i hope you know the rear are turn piston type calipers so you need a little box type thing to turn the piston back in the caliper so the pads will fit . ..

 

i had the same problem with mine, and the impact driver still just stripped the screws out.... i had to drill them out in order to put new rotors on.

Also if they are still the stock rotors you should have 2 threaded holes for bolts to go in (forgot the size) in which you screw those in and if you drill out the screws most of the way, you can keep wrenchin on the bolts and the screws will break off and will will all come apart

 

yeah those screws are useless. i think they were just there for assembly at the plant. Drill em out and dont worry bout puttin em back in

 

just hit the wrench with a hammer a few times to try to loosen the seal the try the breaker bar

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quiksheit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah those screws are useless. i think they were just there for assembly at the plant. Drill em out and dont worry bout puttin em back in </TD></TR></TABLE>
If they were useless Im sure honda wouldnt have made them there...Id use them; they are there for a reason. Remember this is the part of the car thats makes you STOP.

 

penetrating lube (there are lots of different kinds at auto parts store) will do much better than WD-40.

dont give up on the toughies, just dont strip them

as for the screws in the brakes, they can be a PIA but you're probably safer with them in there... at least one...

 

they arent needed once you've machined or replaced the rotors. they come from the factory while the car is being assembled. the way to get them off is how jason said, with an 'impact screw-driver'. its spring loaded with an impact philips bit. the thing to remember is you can't just hold it and hit it with a hammer. you have to TWIST it while hitting it with the hammer to break the screw free. dont bother using the 2 holes where you can screw a bolt in to remove the rotor if the screws are still in there. you might have a tough time but they will come out with the impact screwdriver. if the rotors are stuck hit the part the tire sits flush against with a hammer a few times, if it starts to dent the rotor then stop, its on there too tight and you will damage the rotor. (also be careful to not hit the lug nut while doing this or you will damage the threads) if its stuck on there get a big piece of wood. i use firewood. and put the wood on the stopping surface of the rotor and wham it with a hammer really hard. the wood will prevent any damage to the rotor and provide with an impact strong enough to loosen the rotor.

again jason was right with the rear pistons needing a special tool to be put back in.
this type of brake system is called an actuator brake system. the rear pistons do not simply push back in with a c-clamp. they must be screwed back in. they sit on a screw. they have a couple diffrent tools.
this is one of them : http://www.automotiveequipment...7.jpg
the rear piston has grooves in it. it looks like a '+' sign through the entire piston. the tool like the one pictured above, or the other one that is shaped like a 3D box with raised pieces of metal in it fit into the '+' grooves and with a ratchet you can push and turn the piston back in. if its having trouble going in, peel the boot slightly off the piston and spray some penetrating oil in there to help loosen it up.
as for the lower bracket bolt... i hope your using a 1/2 inch ratchet with a good 6-point socket. they may be on there pretty hard but they will break loose. try tightening it a tiny bit to help break it loose then loosen it. try all ways with a breaker bar first. if those ways dont work get a canister of map gas and heat it up then loosen it.
also remember to regrease the rubber piece on the bracket where the metal rod goes through. simply pull out the metal piece and grease the boot as well as the rod. it is supposed to pivot on the rotor when the brakes are applied which is why you need it to be greased. wipe off any dirt on the rotor with brake parts cleaner and a towel prior to putting the wheel back on. it is also a good idea to flush and refill the brake fluid while you do this.

there is no danger in putting new pads with old rotors. the only thing that can occur is pedal/steering pulsation while braking at high speeds. unless your rotors have bad grooves in them.

let me know if you need any more help with anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If they were useless Im sure honda wouldnt have made them there...Id use them; they are there for a reason. Remember this is the part of the car thats makes you STOP. </TD></TR></TABLE>

those screw are not needed
they have nothing to do with your car stoping
when your wheel is on your wheel will hold the rotor in
all that screw does is hold the rotor on when the wheel is off

 

yo IVI , what part of nj are you from ??

 

Just did all my pads and rotors this weekend. Lemme just say that the impact driver is my best friend, those screws would have been impossible to take of with out it. Whoever said that you need to twist the impact driver is very correct, just bashing it in will simply destroy the screws. I decided to put the rotor screws back on, just so when i took my wheels off again i would have to worry about the rotors falling off. The rear pistons were simple to put back in, i believe there is a special tool, but if you get a big flat head and place it between 2 of the raised portions on the piston, you can turn it back into place. Good luck and make sure you get that impact dirver i think the like 20$ or so at sears, well worth it.

 

i went out and bought one.
mastercraft, so guarenteed for life. i got it for $35 cdn
i decided to do my fronts as well, so now i'm waiting for them to come before i do the upgrade

(got some EBC CD/slotted rotors and mean green pads for the fronts )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lilcaliplayany &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoever said that you need to twist the impact driver is very correct, just bashing it in will simply destroy the screws. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My craftsman impact screwdriver does not operate like that. It most certainly twists when it is struck. If it didn't turn by itself when it is struck, where is the benefit?

It is indexed you know, you have to turn it one way to tighten screws and then twist it the other way to loosen. You don't have to provide the twisting force, as that would be pointless and negate the purpose of the tool.

 

northeren new jersey, elizabeth area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rapid_roy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My craftsman impact screwdriver does not operate like that. It most certainly twists when it is struck. If it didn't turn by itself when it is struck, where is the benefit?

It is indexed you know, you have to turn it one way to tighten screws and then twist it the other way to loosen. You don't have to provide the twisting force, as that would be pointless and negate the purpose of the tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

even tho its indexed which way is loosen and tighten, you still have to grasp the tool and twist it in the way you want it to go. i have a craftsman one and a husky one, they are both exactly the same. i work in an automotive shop and everyone elses you have to twist while you turn it. yes it will slightly turn if you hit it, its spring loaded. but to get the maximum turning and screw opening power you must turn it. the very first time i used it, i did it wrong and ended up breaking the philips bit in the screw on the rotor. i had to go buy a brand new impact screw driver set because they didnt have the bit in stock.
think about it like this... if you push someone standing still they will still get pushed. but if you push someone while throwing your weight in the direction of the push they will get pushed further. same concept.

 

i stripped the top bolt holding the caliper to get to the brake pads. son of a bitch would not come off..and i still need to change the brake pads.

 

what kind of tools are you using?

 

"impact screwdriver:
A tool which features a mechanism that converts the impact from a hammer into a powerful torque for loosening (or tightening) threaded fasteners.

keywords: mechanism, converts and torque.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
even tho its indexed which way is loosen and tighten, you still have to grasp the tool and twist it in the way you want it to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you don't.

If all I had to do was bang on a screwdriver and turn it, why the hell would I need a special tool?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i work in an automotive shop and everyone elses you have to twist while you turn it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you don't. See above.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it will slightly turn if you hit it, its spring loaded.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No it's not. There is no spring in there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but to get the maximum turning and screw opening power you must turn it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you don't. You hit it harder.

The human hand/wrist can , at most supply 4-5nM of torque. How much do you think that helps compared to the hundreds generated at the bit? Your wrist simply cannot match the force of a 3lb hammer and mechanical advantage. *IT IS THE WHOLE POINT OF THE TOOL*

You can twist or you can hit it harder, which do you think will do more good? If twisting were the answer, you would have gotten it off with the screwdriver 10 minutes before you went looking for the right tool.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the very first time i used it, i did it wrong and ended up breaking the philips bit in the screw on the rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you must be at least 10% smarter than the tool you are trying to use in order for it to work correctly.

For the same reason an impact wrench will work better than a breaker bar, so will an impact screwdriver. It is the initial generation of torque than is converted from the hammer blow that does *ALL* the work. You twisting on it does nothing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">northeren new jersey, elizabeth area.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn im up by there too...
anyways i dont see the point of twisting the tool thats suppose to do the twisting for you... just my$.02

 

Impact Driver
The best remedy for a stuck screw, or one whose head has been stripped, is the impact screwdriver. An impact screwdriver is essentially two weights held apart by a spring<U></U>. The bottom one holds screwdriver bits. You smack the top one with a hammer. In between them is a spring and a circular ramp. The ramp makes the bottom weight with the bit in it turn. So when you hit the top weight, giving it momentum, it compresses the spring and hits the ramp which turns the screwdriver-bit-holding bottom weight. The beauty of the design is that the force you impart to the impact wrench by hitting it with the hammer is forced into the screw, helping the screwdriver bit bite into the screw head (or what's left of it). Most impact drivers will let you set them for left and right turning, to loosen or tighten screws.

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/m....html

okay... i guess im wrong then... do it whatever way you want. i guess working in an automotive shop and all and doing it daily i could be wrong.



Modified by IVI at 12:46 PM 4/13/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SweetChin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

damn im up by there too...
anyways i dont see the point of twisting the tool thats suppose to do the twisting for you... just my$.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya fun area...

Some cheap impact drivers have (relatively) stiff springs which require a heavy hammer to compress and get the ramps to turn the bit. &lt;= off the website above.

what happens to a screw when u try and turn it with a screwdriver and its really tight? well... for me and alot of other people, the screwdriver turns and usually slips and starts stripping the screw. right or wrong? that is the whole purpose of the impact screwdriver. when u hit the back with a hammer it prevents it from slipping out of the head preventing it from stripping. try it their way first not turning it on one side of the car, then try it my way on the other side of the car.. and let us know whose way was better and less damaging to the screw.

 

OK, here's my 2cz
-Impact Screwdriver will take the bolts out -
-Drill the bolts out cuz you dont need them? - WTF
here's another method i always use before i buy the impact screwdriver, "chisel", yes it'll remove those bolts with ease, just apply enough force and hit at the right angle. This way you can save the bolts.
Trust me, it'll get those bolts out, me and my friends must have done this for 100s of times.
And about the rear calibur "+" tool, no you don't need it eventhough it's cheap. All you have to do is use a needle nose plier(which i think everybody owns one) open the plier up to fit into the slot of the calibur and turn it clockwise until the calibur all the way in and Voila, mission completed.
IMO, the plier is easier to work with than that daym "+" tool

 

I just fired up my 3/4 inch drill with harder Drill bits and drilled the head right of those f'n screws.... no impact driver needed

 

You dont need to turn an impact driver. If you needed to turn it, you're defeating the purpose of it.

Just set it to the direction you want it to go (loosen) and get a 4lb sledge and smack it a few times. The screws will come right out almost every time.

Yes I reuse my screws. Is it neccessary? Nope. But they came on the car, so i'll leave 'em there. I keep a few spares around in case one starts to strip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An impact screwdriver is essentially two weights held apart by a spring<U></U>.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My bad, it has a spring. I stand corrected.

You still don't need to turn it though.