i'm just trying to get an idea of what other people have. here is what i'm looking at:

LSD

DC JDM 4-1 2.5" Ceramic Header
DC Twin-Loop 2.5" Exhaust
Carsound 2.5" Cat

Clutchmasters stage III clutch
Clutchmasters lightend flywheel
DC short shifter

MSD box
NGK Spark Plug wires
ZEX Spark Plugs

AEM fpr
AEM fuel rail
Walbro fuel pump
RC 550 injectors

Weisco pistons 9:8.1 compression
Eagle rods
titanium valve springs and retainers
Hondata heat insulating gaskets
STR cam gears

dual FAL fans
Jackson Racing water injection
DC short ram intake

Jackson Racing Supercharger @ 10lbs
Nitrous Express 50 shot w/purge

Hondata s200 w/nitrous controls


i think thats all

anyone feel free to comment on if you would add or subtract or replace with another company. i've just done somewhat a lot of research and i think this isn't a bad set-up. i might have forgotten something, but oh well, i'm only human.

PS. anyone know about what kind of numbers i should have with and without nitrous?
thanx

 

bump

 

that's going to be a sexy setup.


FYI, my setup will be as follows.
bottom end
84mm CP 9.5:1 cr pistons
Eagle rods
fully balanced and blueprinted bottom end
oem bearings, gaskets, etc.

top end
GSR cams with adjustable cam gears
mild port/polish
ITR valve springs/valves, Ti retainers
62mm TB (soon to be 65mm mod for jrsc cars)

other
jrsc with ported manifold, and S tube @ 9psi
Iceman intake
Hondata IM gasket
Kamikaze header (with e-cutout at B pipe <hopefully soon&gt
Apexi WS exhaust for the street
Hondata 4b with DSM 450cc squirters
Water injection and J&S Safeguard for safety.

As it stands, the car is damn fast.
I'm running a b16 block with GSR head, which makes for a high CR setup. Once I toyed with the timing a bit, the knock subsided, and granted, it's not as powerful as it could be, it's a safe tune.

Hondata's big boost rom's are great, but I'm still having a hell of a time tuning the idle. I'm going to blame the injectors, but it's probablt something stupid like the IACV or other BS effeciency parts.

 

bump

 

this is what you have or PLAN on doing?

 

it's in the process. i'm going up to St Peters (MO) on Sat and talking to the guys at Adrenaline Motorsports. i'm starting out having them installing the swap with a few extra goodies. then a few months later i'm gonna be getting the jrsc and the rest of the set-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As it stands, the car is damn fast.
I'm running a b16 block with GSR head, which makes for a high CR setup. Once I toyed with the timing a bit, the knock subsided, and granted, it's not as powerful as it could be, it's a safe tune. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hypa-

is this at 6psi currently? also, do you have a dyno of it? or at least track times/weight of vehicle? i've often considered swapping the bottom end of my B16 for a GSR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keebler65 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hypa-

is this at 6psi currently? also, do you have a dyno of it? or at least track times/weight of vehicle? i've often considered swapping the bottom end of my B16 for a GSR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hi Keebler.
The guage actually reads 9psi right now, but I think it has a lot to do with the bottom end, and CR that's causing a false reading. I'm running the jrsc 4" nose pulley, and standard alternator pulley with the smallest crank pulley I can find. It's probably more realistic to say it's about 7.5psi, or equal to the average b16 kit.

dyno should be up again early next week. Our local dyno went down a month ago, and hasn't been back since

As for my driving impressions of the b16 vs the b18c, as expected, the low rpm on the b16 has a lot less pull then the larger b18c. With the b18c, I can break traction by stomping on the gas almost instantly. The b16 is a lot less violent in the low RPMs, and will break traction, but must be coaxed into doing so. Other than that, I know that I'm running a b16 by the way it revs. I can make power all the way past 8200rpm, as fear is the only thing causing me to shift at that point. The motor revs like a streetbike, and begs for more, typical of the b16.

With that said, I'm looking forward to putting the new 1.9L setup together and racing. I know traction will be an issue, but I also know that there will be more power than I need.

FYI, I plan on mating the extra b16 shortblock to a B20 head for aircare purposes, then I'm going to nitrous the **** out of it (I'll have some downtime as I assemble the B19c). I wonder how much nitrous I can run on it without it blowing up.

 

i look forward to the dyno so you dont have any detonation issues with the higher CR? are you using water injection or anything? or just conservative timing?

 

curious to hear how people like the water injection setup? also a comptech header would be ok for a jrsc right? I know it's no kamikaze but I like the comptech quality a lot more.

 

keebler, detonation was a real problem until I bumped my timing back 1 degree per lb of boost. The knock subsided to the point where it was no longer audible.

Now with the J&S, I just let that unit find the best timing for me to run, again, with no problems. 94 octane is also my friend, as it's easy to find in my area.

I have water injection, but have yet to install it after reading what a lot of tuners have to say about it. If anything, I'll use it as an IC sprayer for my WRX.

hadboosttroy, the Comptech header is a wicked piece. For the additional 1-2whp that the Kamikaze header will add over the Comptech, it's poor fit and finish would cause me to buy something different.

 

all JRSCed GSRs tell me your setup...............


93 hatch
stock b18c1
jrsc w/ 8 lb pulley
water injection kit
itr header
aem intake
greddy exhaust
afc
fpr
walbro intank
gsr tranny w/quaiffe

made 225 to the wheels on a dynojet, ran 13.00 on street tires w/full interior.

this was late 1999 to early 2000.......pretty nice for back then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hadboosttroy, the Comptech header is a wicked piece. For the additional 1-2whp that the Kamikaze header will add over the Comptech, it's poor fit and finish would cause me to buy something different.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, thats what I was hoping to hear (but i should clarify i meant the street 4-2-1, not the race 2.5 collector 4-2-1) Is your opinion still the same?

thanks!

 

i would also like to hear more jrsc/gsr setups....im planning on runnin this setup and want to hear what makes better hp setups

 

JRSC GSR @ 6PSI
3" Short Ram
Kami 4-1
SMSP Carsound
60mm Exhaust
Hondata S200B w/DSM 450's
NGK BKR7E's, NGK wires, JR Thermo, etc etc...

214/150

It was fun I went from a Comptech 4-2-1 (regular collector) to a Kami 2.5"/Carsound setup and noticed a HUGE difference, for the record.

 

keep the posts a coming!

 

That water injection is garbage. If your car is tuned right, there is no need for it. Pumping water into a combustion camber doesn't sound too good to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hadboosttroy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cool, thats what I was hoping to hear (but i should clarify i meant the street 4-2-1, not the race 2.5 collector 4-2-1) Is your opinion still the same?

thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course my friend.

I love the comptech parts, and as I said before, the fit and finish of the comptech will more than make up for the -2/3 whp over a Kamikaze.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HNDAPWR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That water injection is garbage. If your car is tuned right, there is no need for it. Pumping water into a combustion camber doesn't sound too good to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree.
In some instances running a bit more timing with a shot of water/alcohol will actually allow for a bit more power to be made than just regular tuning.

 

95 Honda Civic Coupe
95 B18c1 (stock internals and stock tranny)
JRSC at 6psi
Kami header 2.5
2.5 exhaust
cam gears
Hondata S200b
wahlbro 255
Iceman CAI
RC 370's


puts out 225 at the wheels and i love it...


Modified by Blue-Civic-Hybrid at 3:11 PM 4/17/2004


Modified by Blue-Civic-Hybrid at 3:11 PM 4/17/2004

 

92 civic hb
stock 2001 gsr
jrsc 10lbs
hondata s100
rc 440
kamikazie header
apexn1
homemade icebox
nos dry kit .025 pill
12.8 @ 110mph on nitto 555r's
haven't run it at the track with the nitrous
car is daily driven with a/c full int. and a loud *** stereo(thats how it runs at the track)

befor and after nos. bottle pressure was lower than 750 and it was very humid that day.

 

nice.....thats what i want with my jrsc/gsr setup is to hit 12s...and thats basically the same setup im goin exept the nos...but u still hit 12.8 without the nos....

 

yup never used the nitrous at the track. i also run with full interior, amps, subs, half a tank of gas. i just show up at the track, drop my tire pressure, and have fun.

 

bump

 

Bump, I wanna know more about the nitrous/SC setups. Won't the nitrous take the coating off the blades? I'd understand a direct port kit but a dry kit? Fill me in.