I have a 00 GSR w/ 60k on the B18c1 and have a couple of bent valves.
I have removed the head, camshafts, & intake manifold
and and trying to decide what all I need to do to it while I have it apart
I am thinking about going with all skunk2 valve train stainless valves,stage2 cams, racing springs, titanium valve retainers, skunk2 cam gears, and skunk2 intake manifold. Also wondering if I should have the head ported and polished???
Contemplating replacing the pistons and rods uping the compression to 11.6-1.
I already have an AEM CAI, DC Sports 4into1 header, testpipe,skunk2 catback, unorthadox racing underdrive pullies, and platnum+4s.
Anyone with any advice on brands of pistons or anything else that I should do or not do it would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

I really dont know how much longer I can go without driving my car with all the nice weather ahead.


Modified by vman at 4:27 PM 4/10/2004

 

IMO
replacing all that is a waste of $$$$$$
with all that you are going to spend on valve train and P&P
you better off finding a decent p73 head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you better off finding a decent p73 head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Being that Honda never made a P73 head, I would imagine it difficult to find one for sale anywhere. If you're referencing an ITR head, then It would really be wasteful as a P72 head can be ported well beyond the ITR head, plus a set of CTR cams and appropriate valvetrain can be found, all for less than you would spend on a complete ITR head. Plus without upgrading the internals using an ITR head, he'd actually be taking a slight loss in compression.

I say go for it. A set of PCT pistons can be had for dirt cheap and should work well with the Skunk2 Stage 2 cams. Also, If you want to run ITB's with the setup, let me know.

 

really!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Based on that remark, I've come to one of two conclusions.

1. Your first post was a joke and an attempt to poke fun at a newb, and I took it the wrong way.

2. You're going to attempt to make an argumentative statement immediately following this post.

 

tell me would you waste all that money on P&P + valve train + labor?

and all he is a brand *****....

platinum +4's, unurthadox underdrive pulleys

no matter what we tell him he will go for what he listed....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and all he is a brand *****</TD></TR></TABLE>

You make a valid point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">platinum +4's, unurthadox underdrive pulleys</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually had every intention of pointing those out, but I figured I'd give him the benefit of the doubt being that he is still a newb and doesn't know better.

And yes, he will go for what he listed, especially the Skunk2 products because all newb's love Skunk2 for some odd reason (as far as I'm concerned they have good cams and good manifolds, everything else is sub-par).

 

my best bet is that he saw that set up in a mag
and there he goes and tries to get a confirmation if
the set up is good....
yeap intake manifold are good plus the cams
then the rest well better off with OEM valve train..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO
replacing all that is a waste of $$$$$$
with all that you are going to spend on valve train and P&P
you better off finding a decent p73 head.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agreeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the idea behind this site is to exchange info and ideas between people with a common interest.
Not make assumptions about why the person posted it ?
When you ***-u-me anything you make an *** out of u and me.
I'm just looking for advice from someone that has more experience than me.
If you have advice for me it would be appreciated.
If all you are going to do is assume SHUT THE HELL UP !

 

Thanks for the info w/o the BS
Individual throttle bodies $?
Estimated HP gain ?
OEM valves, spings, and retainers ?
Recommended cams ?
Is CNC porting and polishing worth it ? HP-$
PCT pistons CR 11.6:1 for pump gas?
Rods OEM, Eagle, or... ?
I would like to attain 9-10k RPM if possible
Brand doesn't matter to me bang for the buck and reliability matters
Any questions you can answer or info you can provide is much appreciated

 

ITB's will not be worth it unless you go big cams and much more compression.
Also i can't beleive that you are going to do all that and run a dc 4-1 header(usdm i am guessing) get a real header.

 

What is your definition of a real header ?
I originally was just going to fix my bent valves but figured while I have the engine pulled apart, should improve on it.
Noticed your teg was turbo I havn't completely ruled that out.
Any suggestions would be great.
I would like to stay in the 4k$ range.

 

A header like smsp, header-tech, an-r, or something like that

Are you asking me what would be a good turbo set-up for under 4 grand?

 

Just curious as far as $ for HP & reliabilty NA or turbo for a daily driver

 

If there is one thing i have learned about FI it is that you should never go into it on a set budget because in time you WILL go over that budget, but it is great while it is there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to stay in the 4k$ range.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I though you was kidding me but now I see you are serius
about wasting your 4k on cheap speed....

but go ahead......
nobody is stoping you.....

http://www.importbuilders.com

best bet for you....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I though you was kidding me but now I see you are serius
about wasting your 4k on cheap speed....

but go ahead......
nobody is stoping you.....

http://www.importbuilders.com

best bet for you....</TD></TR></TABLE>

He is obviously trying to make a conscious effort to learn and taking insight. If you aren't going to help him out stop posting. His "newbie" status simply means he needs to be informed not flamed. Stop being an ******* and help him out.

 

do it if you want ot i would spend the much

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Stop being an ******* and help him out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not make treat you like a NOOB....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITB's will not be worth it unless you go big cams and much more compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I beg to differ. We've been making great horsepower gains on an otherwise stock B16A with an ITB setup. True, we could make more with further upgrades, but anyone who believes that further upgrades are necessary has been misled.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A header like smsp, header-tech, an-r, or something like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or just a JDM DC 4-1...for half the price. It has been proven to flow at least as well as many of the "real" headers on the market.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If there is one thing i have learned about FI it is that you should never go into it on a set budget because in time you WILL go over that budget, but it is great while it is there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do have to agree with this statement. No one ever stays within budget.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not make treat you like a NOOB....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you calling me a noob? Take two seconds and look to the side and see who has been a member longer

In my mind i still see ITB's as unneeded until later down the road. I had a jdm
4-1 and it suited me fine for the time being but if he has plans for larger cams and such, a better flowing header would be better. A jdm header would suffice no doubt, but i figured i would throw out some of the baller company headers.

P.S its been a fair time since i have been into NA stuff so maybe people are having better results with itb's on street cars since i last looked into it.

 

My biggest point is that, when tested, the JDM DC flowed virtually the same as the infamous Toda header with only minor fluctuations differentiating the two. This resulted in the two laying down almost identical power and torque curves, and leading me to believe that unless you're running a seriously crazy setup, then you won't further benefit from running one of the more expensive headers. I do, however, commend you for introducing a newb to "real" companies. I recommend Hytech products to those who can afford them.

 

I was gunna say hytech but if i remember from back in the day the wait was rediculous and the price was a little to ballerific