a

 

hmmm...were these runs at the same track? Similar temperatures and humidity?
What were your 60' times each run?

I have a friend on here with a VERY built y8/z6 motor and it put down 2whp more than a stock EX on a local dyno...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm...were these runs at the same track? Similar temperatures and humidity?
What were your 60' times each run?

I have a friend on here with a VERY built y8/z6 motor and it put down 2whp more than a stock EX on a local dyno...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does this information you just gave have to do with anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk_Guy_N_S3DAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What does this information you just gave have to do with anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the beginning part will help us analyze both runs.

The second part means that sometimes even though the motors are "built" they still don't really make any more power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mind you, i've since added about 30whp to the car since it was stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

please list your engine and mods. 11.xx in an 1/8 sound like a stock motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..... i just dont get it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn man...

That 60' time could be contributing quite a bit. I honestly don't know what to tell you about your times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> with a new personal best RT of .029sec (!!!! )
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you mean .529

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


the track i run at uses a sportsmans tree, meaning .000 is a perfect light, not .500</TD></TR></TABLE>

I stand corrected

Nice r/t

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


the two times may as well be the same thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as et is concered, i concur. But it never hurts to work on all aspects of the track

 

Are you sure you are actually putting down 30whp more or you think you are. Impoperly build block might not put out more hp.

 

maybe your clutch is going to hell and you can't really feel it. I mean stock d series clutches are pretty crappy from my experience.

 

Are you getting a cel running the v-tec head without the correct wiring? If you are you could be running in open loop mode and that would explain loss of power but your butt dyno would tell you something was wrong right away.

 

Hate to say it, but a dyno session is going to be difficult to tell what you're doing now. Without a baseline run to go agianst, it's tough. All the dynos are going to put out diffrent numbers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i decided to pull my codes mid-way through the night tonight... i ended up with a code 14, 23, and 61.

14 = iacv (damn wiring)
23 = knock sensor
61 = primary O2 sensor (i really dont know why this comes on from time to time, it seems to be sporadic, but at this point i'm not sure considering i have a CEL all the time.)</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's your problem right there.

You need to get that stuff handled. At least the primary 02. That'll KILL your power. Also, has it been tuned?

 

You should dyno tune the car it could cause a night/day difference. Also what are u managing your fuel with; any sort of fuel pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator and are you using your stock ecu? With a bumped up engine the stock fuel maps aren't made to flow with the "new" motor.

more power=more fuel

The check engine light could be causing you to run in limp mode. The engine light wont always stay on, but the ecu will data log it so if you were to jump the harness when it was off it would still throw the same codes. Cutting the power supply to the ecu is the only way to reset it and if there is still a problem the check engine light will prevail yet again.

 

Maybe it is because all of your mods deal with adding power in the topend department. I coul;d be wrong, but that may be it, you just dont have any low end.

 

I know the y7 injectors are 180cc and the Y8s are 240cc if that helps at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know the y7 injectors are 180cc and the Y8s are 240cc if that helps at all? </TD></TR></TABLE>


eh, i'm not too concered with the inj differences at this point. i just want to figure out whats up with my car.

should i pick up a new O2 sensor to cure that CEL?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


eh, i'm not too concered with the inj differences at this point. i just want to figure out whats up with my car.

should i pick up a new O2 sensor to cure that CEL?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You said you changed the 02 from the secondary over to the primary and it made it worse?

If you can get another one for cheap it can't hurt to replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
or ****... i could just say **** it all and just got with an obd2-obd1 adapter and run a p28 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd say go with that one.

 

ive seen a couple of d16y's with add on internals do worse than stock alot of times ??? I dunno seen it numerous times , one of those freak things , whats your timing and all set at too ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe it is because all of your mods deal with adding power in the topend department. I coul;d be wrong, but that may be it, you just dont have any low end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

His cam is for mid range power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mind you, i've since added about 30whp to the car since it was stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

no offense intended, but how do you know you added 30 hp? each mod may add X hp individually, but one can not assume that all together they add X amount of hp collectively. and if you did, where was the biggest gain at? some parts benefit up top, some in the middle, and some in the bottom end.

also an 1/8 mile really isnt a true test of measurement for perfomance. unless you are practicing staging, and launch control.

ill give you an example

i had a 90 si civic with a motor swap, an i automatically assumed that putting a wider, stickier tire, and a light weight 10 lb wheel would help me in the 1/4 mile. while it did gain a better 60' time and a slightly better 1/8 mile time my 1/4 time was slower with these than the 175/70/13 kuhmo on 13" steelies. the combo was actually heavier, and with a taller diameter with more tire resistance (due to width), and more of the weight was concentrated toward the outer part of the wheel tire combo.


Modified by Huggy Bear at 2:17 PM 4/17/2004
my bad i forgot to say 205/50/15 was the new combo


Modified by Huggy Bear at 2:18 PM 4/17/2004

 

i have a 4 wire o2 sensor for sale...

 

lol i just got back from the track tonight i got a 96 civic hatch CX(long *** gears) and i ran 11.062@65.53mph(1/8) and 17.149@80.00(1/4) i think u have something wrong