I just installed the B&M shifter in my car and my only complaint is that it rattles when i'm cruising on the highway. I heard there is a fix I can do to stop the rattling. Can anyone point me in the right direction? (i didn't want to have to buy a skunk 2 kit, but I might have to )

 

What sort of stuff is in the bottom of the shifter? Did you have to take the stuff out of the bottom of the stock shifter and stuff it into the B&M, or did the B&M come w/ metal bearings in the bottom? What about the width of the bottom of the B&M vs. the width of the linkage where the bolt goes thru? If the B&M isn't wide enough to fill the linkage (or if you didn't put spacers on the bolt) then it can rattle.

to my $40 AutoZone shifter w/ metal bearings in the bottom. Feels MUCH better than stock, short, crisp throws, and absolutely no rattles after nearly 3 years of use.

 

Is was like the cheapest b&m shifter. Didn't include the bearings. I have to reuse the stock ones I believe. I did set it up for the "race" style setup, which like stacked a lot of spacers onto one side. Maybe I should try to move them more even and see how it does...

 

Could be your exhaust rattling against the shifter. Does it rattle when you let of the gas?

 

It typically rattles only under acceleration. So, yes, that is possible. Don't really know what I could do to fix that

I am about to buy the shift stabilizer thing from B&M. Apparently it lets you adjust where you shifter sits too. Not too shabby.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It typically rattles only under acceleration. So, yes, that is possible. Don't really know what I could do to fix that

I am about to buy the shift stabilizer thing from B&M. Apparently it lets you adjust where you shifter sits too. Not too shabby.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a lock washer along with a few regular washers on my through-bolt. It keeps everything pressed together and rattle-free.

 

ive had mine for about two years and never found a fix for the rattle...just kinda got used to it, although i had to take it off last week and been to lazy to put it back on stock shifter is so nice w/o that rattle.

 

I thought everythign was tight when in installed it. I guess i'll just lift it up and take a look under there. See if anything came loose over the last few months of driving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought everythign was tight when in installed it. I guess i'll just lift it up and take a look under there. See if anything came loose over the last few months of driving. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nothing is going to be loose, i think the way the washers sit makes it rattle so much...if you find a fix let me know! maybe ill put it back on one of these days

 

IMHO any shifter that uses the stock bearings and o-rings and stuff in the bottom is crap. Sealed metal bearings are where it's at. If you use the proper spacers along with it, it's impossible to overtighten the through-bolt. You can tighten it all you want, and it will always feel the same when shifting, and probably won't rattle.

 

I've had my B&M edge shifter for over 4 and a half years now and I've noticed it only rattles when I'm cruising on the highway at 65-70 mph and also using an aftermarket shiftknob. Once I replaced the shiftknob with my stock one it eliminated the rattling. I'm sure neuspeed, energy, or b&m bushings will also help tighten the whole assembly and also help with the rattling noise.

 

Ive heard that you can wrap electrical or duct tape on the shaft and it will absorb the rattle and cure the noise...I have the same rattle, but havent gotten around to the tape mod yet...

 

i haev a skunk 2 and its rattling

 

cheapest fix... don't buy a short shifter to begin with.. i got a skunk 2 shifter... very smooth shifts i love it. but i abuse the hell out of my tranny so now the gears are har dto get into.. i'm looking for an ITR shifter to replace it.

 

If your gears are trashed, your gears are trashed, changing the shifter isn't going to help. And BTW, short shifters do NOT cause gears to start grinding, the people that use them do.

Also if it's hard to shift or to get it into each gear, you probably need a new clutch pressure plate. About a year ago, still on my aging stock clutch, I took 2nd gear to redline (didn't shift hard into any gear), and then suddenly after that it was hard to get into each gear. Turns out I had metal pieces broken off from around the springs in my pressure plate, and at least one of the springs had come dislodged slightly.

 

B&M=

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your gears are trashed, your gears are trashed, changing the shifter isn't going to help. And BTW, short shifters do NOT cause gears to start grinding, the people that use them do.

Also if it's hard to shift or to get it into each gear, you probably need a new clutch pressure plate. About a year ago, still on my aging stock clutch, I took 2nd gear to redline (didn't shift hard into any gear), and then suddenly after that it was hard to get into each gear. Turns out I had metal pieces broken off from around the springs in my pressure plate, and at least one of the springs had come dislodged slightly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

new clutch... unfortunatly it's the exedy unity disc (OEM stocker) and the lightweight flywheel prolly wreaked havoc on the sprngs.. but like i said when i get in the mood i push my car very hard. and having a short shifter will accelerate wear as it supossedly misaligns the shift gates for the selector forks

 

there's hardly any good way of stopping the rattling. I use to have a b&m shifter, even with the shift stabilzer installed it would still rattle. I even put my stock shifter back on and it still will rattle. IMO I always suspect that by using the stock bearings instead of a sealed unit like skunk2, you will always have rattles. My solution to the rattling problem was to switch to the skunk2 duel bend. After 2 years, not ONE problem has arised yet. just my .02

 

Thanks so much guys, I think I am just gonna switch to teh dual bend skunk 2. Wish I didn't have to spend money for the skunk 2 **** as well

 

you don't have to buy the ****.. the shifter does well on it's own. i just like the **** cuz it's beefy and would break a window of an ******* pretty easily

 

B&M ..... no problems at all. when i installed it i also didnt use the cheap rubber washers.... works awesome .. have had it bout a year and a half now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cougar10ag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't have to buy the ****.. the shifter does well on it's own. i just like the **** cuz it's beefy and would break a window of an ******* pretty easily</TD></TR></TABLE>

For some reason I thought it used a different thread pattern than the other shifters. Cool. Also, does anyone use the DC short shift? It seems to be a pretty nice piece too for a little cheaper, and has sealed bearings..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For some reason I thought it used a different thread pattern than the other shifters. Cool. Also, does anyone use the DC short shift? It seems to be a pretty nice piece too for a little cheaper, and has sealed bearings..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well most people tend to bad-mouth DC shifters, but my AutoZone shifter is pretty much a carbon copy and it's been nothing but awesome for almost 3 years now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cougar10ag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

new clutch... unfortunatly it's the exedy unity disc (OEM stocker) and the lightweight flywheel prolly wreaked havoc on the sprngs.. but like i said when i get in the mood i push my car very hard. and having a short shifter will accelerate wear as it supossedly misaligns the shift gates for the selector forks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, a short shifter does no such thing. The shift linkage has a u-joint up front, right before that spring pin (the b!tch pin as we all know it), and the only thing the short shifter does is move the bottom of the linkage down a bit where it connects under the car. This changes the angle of the linkage by maybe .01 degrees, but the u-joint keeps everything cherry inside the transmission.

*edit* just to illustrate, you could disconnect the linkage from the shifter while the car is on a lift and have the linkage hang straight down, but it still wouldn't affect anything inside the transmission (well the weight of the linkage hanging down might change some things, but I mean theoretically ).

 

Oddly, my B&M shifter had the infamous rattle for the first year, and now it doesn't rattle at all. Maybe it's finally broken in....lol...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oddly, my B&M shifter had the infamous rattle for the first year, and now it doesn't rattle at all. Maybe it's finally broken in....lol...</TD></TR></TABLE>

either that or something broke and fell off j/k prolly didn't need it anyway