Hey guys, im having a little problem.

im throwing a cel 45, problem in the fuel system.

Im takeing the steps to pin point the problem, and im wondering if there is any way that you can tell if an o2 sensor is bad?

Visually i mean, or can i test the wires that lead to it? Is there anyway to find out besides paying $75 at a shop or replacing it.?

Also, i assume the first and second o2 sensors, either could cause a cel 45, or am i wrong?

Just trying to figure this out with out paying out the ***.

Thanks

 

You can use a multimeter and check the voltage. It should bounce back and forth from 0v-5v. I believe the helms manual tells you how to do the test.

 

cool, i figured that would be the way to go about it. Thanks for the reassurance.

 

when your car at idle sounds like it's gonna die...and then it goes back to normal..then back to almost stalling..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraXTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when your car at idle sounds like it's gonna die...and then it goes back to normal..then back to almost stalling..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

no

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRuST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use a multimeter and check the voltage. It should bounce back and forth from 0v-5v. I believe the helms manual tells you how to do the test.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You use multimeter to check for resistance for continuity.

Just follow the helms manual

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, that happened to mine and the dealer replaced my o2 sensor

easy for you to say "no" and not back it up ***

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraXTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well, that happened to mine and the dealer replaced my o2 sensor

easy for you to say "no" and not back it up ***</TD></TR></TABLE>

"no" because that's a sloppy way you can tell if the 02 sensor is bad

Best way to check if the o2 sensor is bad is if you're throwin a code. Typically code 41 will mean it's an o2 sensor problem. Best way to go about this is to follow the helms procedure.

 

Check for specs on the o2 sensor - resistance -
I believe it should be between 600 - 900 ohms.
Look it up, and test for continuity/resistance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

"no" because that's a sloppy way you can tell if the 02 sensor is bad

Best way to check if the o2 sensor is bad is if you're throwing a code. Typically code 41 will mean it's an o2 sensor problem. Best way to go about this is to follow the helms procedure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, when my primary o2 sensor failed, It didn't throw a code. It threw a code for an exhaust leak I had and fixed, and when I reset it, it never threw again. Yet the car exhibited the same symptoms that IntegraXTR says he had, and believe me, you don't think it's bad till you feel the car dipping below 500 RPM at a red light and surging back up to 1000 RPM.

Also, mine was having some problems accelerating between 2500-3000 RPM. It would lose all power for a short period, then it would kick back in and out for about 2 minutes before being completely warmed up.

Anyway, the best thing to do is follow the manual's procedure to test out the o2 sensor and make sure it's the one to replace, seeing how expensive the darn thing is.

 

thank you RedK..

Mr.Integra- i didn't say it was the end all to figuring out if your o2 sensor is bad, it's a symptom...

 

yup. , pretty sure its a bad o2. It almost kills at idle, like lights or stop signs. i was pretty sure that was the problem before, now im positive.

Thanks Guys.

 

btw, the universal o2 sensor works ok&gt;?

I dont feel like dishing out the $500+ for an oem one that napa quoted me.

 

holy ****, 500 bucks? haha

the acura dealership said the part was worth 85 bucks installed..

*shrugs*
*edit* btw i believe you can get a bosch one as a replacement

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=795125

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StealthGPDB8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check for specs on the o2 sensor - resistance -
I believe it should be between 600 - 900 ohms.
Look it up, and test for continuity/resistance.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, look it up. But there's TWO things in there, a sensor & a preheater. People are getting confused between them...

The preheater is a resistance, you check it with your multimeter set for ohms. I think it's supposed to be between 10 & 40 ohms, but look it up.

You check the VOLTAGE of the sensor when it's warmed up & running. It would read like an open circuit if it's cool. With the engine idling, it should swing quickly back & forth; I think from 0.1v to 0.9v.

 

ok, im going to do a little more reading on this, and see if i cant nail it.

Today i found that the secondary o2 sensor, the one that actually plugs into its female counter part thats behind the stereo/console on the inside of the car, that one of the 4 prongs was pulled out the back. I reseated the wire and prong to sit as the others did, and to sit like the ones on the primary o2. I hit it with some hot glue as the little blue rubber bushing thing thats supposed to keep the wire in place was torn.

Image



With the multi meter on ohms, if i touch 1 and 4, it shows continuity. But no other connected posts show that. This was the same for both the primary and secondary o2 sensors.

im not sure what else to do, or what the next step is, or if that means the sensor is good, and im throwing the code because of something else.

After i fixed the post on the secondary sensor, i disconnected the battery, and showed no codes for like 3 hours roughly, and then it came back.

Its a code 45, and i was told to first check the o2 sensors.

If someone can verify any of this info, would appreciate it.

Thanks

 

---||---
| 1 2 |
| 3 4 |
-------- Your plug should look something like this.


1) turn ignition off

2) measure resistance between terminal 3 and 4

3) Resistance shoudl be between 10-40 ohms. If not, replace O2 sensor.

4) Check continuity to BODY GROUND on terminals 3 and 4

5) If there is continuity, replace o2 sensor.

6) Check for continuity between terminals 4 and terminals 1 and 2 individually. If there is continuity, replace the 02 sensor.

do these steps first. I really doubt your o2 is bad. If it is bad, you would most likely be throwing a code 41.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">---||---
| 1 2 |
| 3 4 |
-------- Your plug should look something like this.


1) turn ignition off

2) measure resistance between terminal 3 and 4

3) Resistance shoudl be between 10-40 ohms. If not, replace O2 sensor.

4) Check continuity to BODY GROUND on terminals 3 and 4

5) If there is continuity, replace o2 sensor.

6) Check for continuity between terminals 4 and terminals 1 and 2 individually. If there is continuity, replace the 02 sensor.

do these steps first. I really doubt your o2 is bad. If it is bad, you would most likely be throwing a code 41.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you don't have to throw a code for your o2 sensor to be bad . . . I got no codes and my o2 sensor is fucked . . . we tested my car with a friends o2 sensor and everything worked a lot better. Try burning your o2 sensor with a lighter or a torch for a little bit to get off some of the grime!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scribes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... Its a code 45, and i was told to first check the o2 sensors.</TD></TR></TABLE>Code 45 is air/fuel mixture; I guess it can be caused by other things than the O2 sensor. If you read it with an OBD-II code reader it will be P0171 for too lean, P0172 for too rich.

Just as an example, if your fuel pressure is wrong, then the ECU uses a shorter or longer injector pulse to keep the O2 sensor happy. But the ECU doesn't know the fuel pressure, so it just thinks the engine's running too rich or too lean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraXTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when your car at idle sounds like it's gonna die...and then it goes back to normal..then back to almost stalling..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn this is what mine is doing, i better replace that 02

 

Where is the O2 on a 1992 Hatch DX

 

last time i checked, this was the integra forum...

j/k

should be either on the header itself or the a-pipe on or about the cat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Code 45 is air/fuel mixture; I guess it can be caused by other things than the O2 sensor. If you read it with an OBD-II code reader it will be P0171 for too lean, P0172 for too rich.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Code 45 is "running too rich or too lean" which can be caused by many things. 9 our of 10 times it is the primary O2. One of the other common causes is valve clearance. My car was throwing code 45 about once every week or two and often was wanting to die at idle. Replaced primary O2 sensor and everything is perfect.

 

Yea sounds like bad 02 sensor to me too. I would reset the ECU properly. Let it Recalibrate your Air/Fuel Mixture. and if you still throw the same code ... then i would just buy a new one . Yours probably is old as dirt anyways.

i got a replacement from

http://www.oxygensensors.com/

Works great

 

I got mine from this guy on ebay. Ended up costing me $50 shipped for a brand new OEM Honda O2 sensor and was shipped very fast.

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotor...ws=50