AGX shock install I need some help.
I took my car out today and managed to installed 1 of my Kyb AGXs w/H&R race. Bare with me it's my first time working with my car since last summer, so I know I am kinda rusty.(ouch my back is killing me)
Anyways before I get to installing the passenger side I just want to double check if I got this right.
Heres the passenger side (stock w/weapon craps)
Drivers (AGX w/H&R)

does it look right? Did I leave out a piece?

I am thinking I should have used the part on the left (washer) instead of the OEM part (flat disc style washer) before the bump stop?
Help...Please!
Anyways before I get to installing the passenger side I just want to double check if I got this right.
Heres the passenger side (stock w/weapon craps)
Drivers (AGX w/H&R)

does it look right? Did I leave out a piece?

I am thinking I should have used the part on the left (washer) instead of the OEM part (flat disc style washer) before the bump stop?
Help...Please!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Chillin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there should be 2 nuts on the agx. at least that's how mine is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, you use 2 nuts on the top. This is the only way to tighten the nut down correctly. The OEM shocks had the hex opening on top, so only 1 nut was needed.
Yup, you use 2 nuts on the top. This is the only way to tighten the nut down correctly. The OEM shocks had the hex opening on top, so only 1 nut was needed.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
On the driver side w/ the AGX in the pic above, the top washer right under the top nut is upside down. The dish should face up.
I used all stock nuts except for the top, this is where I used 1 instead of 2.
One last question...now for the spacer after the bump stop is it ok if I used the flat style spacer instead of the one provided (on my hand on the far back left).
Thanks for the help guys.
One last question...now for the spacer after the bump stop is it ok if I used the flat style spacer instead of the one provided (on my hand on the far back left).
Thanks for the help guys.
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I e-mailed KYB about that and he said you do not have to use the ones that came with th AGX. I didn't, and everything worked out great. The nut that came with the shocks were actually alittle tough to put on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have to hold the shock when u put the nut on. I used the stock nut on mine. im talking about the one on top.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had to. Both nuts, factory and the one supplied by KYB, was tough to get on. The factory was easier. The nut initially wouldn't want to go pass the flat side so I had to improvise.
I had to. Both nuts, factory and the one supplied by KYB, was tough to get on. The factory was easier. The nut initially wouldn't want to go pass the flat side so I had to improvise.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used all stock nuts except for the top, this is where I used 1 instead of 2.
One last question...now for the spacer after the bump stop is it ok if I used the flat style spacer instead of the one provided (on my hand on the far back left).
Thanks for the help guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're referring to the plate/washer that goes right above the bumpstop on the shock piston, below the upper mounts, then NO do NOT use a spacer like the one pictured in your hand. It needs to be a washer like the factory one with a tapered inside diameter to match the taper on the piston, so that the piston won't push up through the upper mount. If you've seen cars w/ the piston pushed up through the mount like it's not supposed to be, it's because that washer wasn't installed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had to. Both nuts, factory and the one supplied by KYB, was tough to get on. The factory was easier. The nut initially wouldn't want to go pass the flat side so I had to improvise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The factory one was easier to get on because it's a nylon locking nut. It has a nylon insert which the threads cut into the first time it's installed. If you remove it and then install it again, it won't lock down like it's supposed to because the nylon insert already has threads cut into it.
My Koni shocks came with two jam nuts to go on top. They lock by way of jamming the two nuts together (tightened up against each other). I don't know about the KYB's, but if it came with 2 top nuts per shock, then that's how you're supposed to lock them down. Install one nut as far as it will go, and then install the other one so that it's locked down against the first one, and for extra security you can back off the first one a bit so that it's pushing up against the second one. This will prevent both nuts from loosening.
One last question...now for the spacer after the bump stop is it ok if I used the flat style spacer instead of the one provided (on my hand on the far back left).
Thanks for the help guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're referring to the plate/washer that goes right above the bumpstop on the shock piston, below the upper mounts, then NO do NOT use a spacer like the one pictured in your hand. It needs to be a washer like the factory one with a tapered inside diameter to match the taper on the piston, so that the piston won't push up through the upper mount. If you've seen cars w/ the piston pushed up through the mount like it's not supposed to be, it's because that washer wasn't installed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had to. Both nuts, factory and the one supplied by KYB, was tough to get on. The factory was easier. The nut initially wouldn't want to go pass the flat side so I had to improvise.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The factory one was easier to get on because it's a nylon locking nut. It has a nylon insert which the threads cut into the first time it's installed. If you remove it and then install it again, it won't lock down like it's supposed to because the nylon insert already has threads cut into it.
My Koni shocks came with two jam nuts to go on top. They lock by way of jamming the two nuts together (tightened up against each other). I don't know about the KYB's, but if it came with 2 top nuts per shock, then that's how you're supposed to lock them down. Install one nut as far as it will go, and then install the other one so that it's locked down against the first one, and for extra security you can back off the first one a bit so that it's pushing up against the second one. This will prevent both nuts from loosening.
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