Hello AUTOxERS! Im a drag guy who might be converted... nah! Ill just have the best of both worlds
Anyhow, I did a search but nothing came regarding what I was looking for. I know about spring rates, and am familiar with strut characteristics, but not a pro. I do not know how to re-valve, or numbers regarding valves etc. But I would like to know what running a stiffer spring would do rather than simply re-valving to a "stiffer" damper. What are the characteristics/actions/results from running a stiffer spring rather than just stiffining the damper. Is there a purpuse to the mass produced "adjustable" struts? (rather than just a form of sale propoganda)?
I have koni yells and im curious to what actually happends internally when you set to a stiffer setting. What does a stiffer setting do rather than just running stiffer springs? THANKS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XLR8 GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know about spring rates, and am familiar with strut characteristics </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would suggest learning about spring rates, and then becoming familiar with strut characteristics.

a strut controls the rate that a spring can compress and uncompress.

If a spring is too stiff for a strut, then the strut can not 'dampen' the forces of the spring. When you hit a bump, the spring will compress, and then uncompress, and keep rebounding and bouncing up and down until the strut slows it down and it returns to a stable smooth ride.

imagine jumping on a trampoline: you jump on a trampoline, and then try to stop. even if you lock your legs and don't jump, you'll keep bouncing up and down slowly until you loose all your energy. Think of the trampoline as a spring without a strut.

Now, imagine someone was standing next to the trampoline, and holding on to your arms. You jump on the trampoline. The person (think of them as a damper) tries to resist you jumping, but he/it only exerts a certain amount of force. Think of this persons strength as how strong the strut is (how much it resists movement) As long as he/it is holding on to you, trying to resist you moving, you will probably hit the trampoline, bounce up, and then come to a stop much sooner. The initial rebound (how how you 'bounce' after the initial compression of the trampoline) will be much lower.

the spring/trampoline actually holds the weight up off the ground when standing still. Its the strut/person that controls how fast the spring compresses and uncompresses, and prevents excessive movement.

hope that makes sense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XLR8 GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nah! Ill just have the best of both worlds
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No such thing.

 

GreyOut; I couldent have asked for a better answer. That sounds like a definition out of a chassis/racecar build-up book... I love the trampoline analogy, very creative- hoping it was you who thought of this! MightyMouseTech: Heres a thought, ANYTHING is possible. I've personally seen 11sec hondas at e-town at the honda-meet who draged, wrenched some, then went out and perfformed decent autox times. Respectable times, but not better than some of the die hard type-r x'rs that were out there... Much respect sire!

 

If you have normal Koni yellows, when you turn the **** you are adjusting rebound. That is, you are changing the rate at which the shock rebounds, or decompresses, after it has compressed. "Double-adjustable" Konis can be adjusted for both rebound and compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XLR8 GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello AUTOxERS! Im a drag guy who might be converted... nah! Ill just have the best of both worlds
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Actually on a FWD car, a drag racing valving will be much closer and more moderate to s street performance shock valving nby far than a front engined RWD car.

When you turn the **** on the Koni, you are changing the rebound or extension rate on the shock by effecting oil flow both through and around the piston this having greater effect across the entire range of piston speeds. In drag racing the issue is all about front to rear weight control at launch then controlled weight return from the rear after launch and finally keeping the suspension soft enough at the normally bumpier high speed end of the track so the car stays planted and controlable. In road race and autocross, front to rear weight transfer is important but side to side motion is important as well. To keep the car flatter and more consistent in handling balance, you slow the weight transfer from the inside of the car to the outside.

BTW, a GSR uses shocks and not struts.

Regardless of shock valving, you need to make sure that you have the right springs for the weight, height and use of the car then you want to have proper shocks to control them. Even though the shocks cost more, your springs are farther upstream in basic function and need to be properly selected first. Shocks are more the fine tune and subtlety. For adjustment, the broader the real adjustment range is both in piston speeds and in forces generated, the better off you are for having a greater tuning range to get your preferred ride, handling, launch control, etc.