Open trailer, full deck or open deck?
I searched the archives, and learned quite a bit about trailers and stuff, but I didn't find anything mentioning preference for a full deck or an open deck, open trailer. The reason why I'm posting this is because I've heard pros and cons about both. Like working under your car on an open trailer, and full deck trailers can haul almost anything, etc.
I was originally leaning towards buying an open deck trailer, however after talking to one "salesguy", he said open deck trailers are flimsy, so they don't stock them. I think he said something like, well if you really want that crap, I'll order you one.
I politely said I'll think about my options.
I was originally leaning towards buying an open deck trailer, however after talking to one "salesguy", he said open deck trailers are flimsy, so they don't stock them. I think he said something like, well if you really want that crap, I'll order you one.
I politely said I'll think about my options.
Full deck here. I have owned both and the full deck adds more vesatility. I always thought I could work under my car on teh trailer with my open trailer if I needed to but honestly not once in about 5 years did the need come up. If I needed to, I could pull my car part way up the ramps on my current trailer.
With a full deck, you can haul anything non-automotive as well. Completely on the side but I also think the closed deck is safer for people and kids around it. Hang around a paddock long enough and your see kids on a trailer (an undeniable magnetism) and like see kids getting hurt slipping on open rungs. When I was about 6, I fell on a motorcycle trailer rail and knock my front teeth 90 degrees out of whack (lots of blood, mom freaked, etc.). At the track, my little guy will have a big wide, white diamond plate plate surface.
With a full deck, you can haul anything non-automotive as well. Completely on the side but I also think the closed deck is safer for people and kids around it. Hang around a paddock long enough and your see kids on a trailer (an undeniable magnetism) and like see kids getting hurt slipping on open rungs. When I was about 6, I fell on a motorcycle trailer rail and knock my front teeth 90 degrees out of whack (lots of blood, mom freaked, etc.). At the track, my little guy will have a big wide, white diamond plate plate surface.
Personal choice is a full deck. I decided on it based on several things. First it will fully protect the underside of the car. Second it makes loading and unloading the car and equipment much easier for me. I also decided on an aluminum trailer rather than a steel one with wood deck or steel diamond plate-MUCH lighter overall with the R&R that I have and mine is 20' rather than 16' (actually should have bought the shorter one for the CRX but plan on hauling the Prelude too <G>
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The reason some folks go with the open deck is that you can more easily get under the car without the need for jack or stands. This in addition to weight savings can make this a good choice mainly if your tow vehicle is underpowered. Our Dakota 4.7 is just fine pulling our setup. If we knew now what we should have discovered, it is possible I would have gone with an aluminum 24' enclosed. Some use that type for camping at the track as well as car storage at home. The negative side of the enclosed trailer is that you should have a bigger truck to tow with.
To end this-look really carefully at your race car, tow vehicle, home situation and long term plans before buying any trailer. The cost of a trailer can be anywhere from $1000 to $6000 for an open basic or full deck depending on materials. Aluminum trailers do not depreciate like their steel counterparts and require far less maintenance-thus the higher upfront cost. Those of us with R&R like them. Bri-Mar makes a fine steel unit as does TrailerWorld.
Good luck and race safe
.The reason some folks go with the open deck is that you can more easily get under the car without the need for jack or stands. This in addition to weight savings can make this a good choice mainly if your tow vehicle is underpowered. Our Dakota 4.7 is just fine pulling our setup. If we knew now what we should have discovered, it is possible I would have gone with an aluminum 24' enclosed. Some use that type for camping at the track as well as car storage at home. The negative side of the enclosed trailer is that you should have a bigger truck to tow with.
To end this-look really carefully at your race car, tow vehicle, home situation and long term plans before buying any trailer. The cost of a trailer can be anywhere from $1000 to $6000 for an open basic or full deck depending on materials. Aluminum trailers do not depreciate like their steel counterparts and require far less maintenance-thus the higher upfront cost. Those of us with R&R like them. Bri-Mar makes a fine steel unit as does TrailerWorld.
Good luck and race safe
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
The "working on the car while it's on the trailer" thing is a myth. I tried it a few times because I was too lazy to pull the RX-7 into the driveway. It was a PITA. The trailer was too low, the axles were in the way, etc. It would have been easier to put it on jackstands. And a full deck would have been useful quite a few times hauling stuff to the dump, moving furniture, etc.
So get a full deck. But not from the salesguy who claimed open-decks were flimsy, because that's just hogwash.
So get a full deck. But not from the salesguy who claimed open-decks were flimsy, because that's just hogwash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just curious...what exactly is "Hogwash?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just curious...what exactly is "Hogwash?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just curious...what exactly is "Hogwash?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
seems pretty obvious
Just curious...what exactly is "Hogwash?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
seems pretty obvious
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I have an open deck trailer. I have used the open "feature" a number of times to change the oil and repair the exhaust (which has been a recurrent problem for me). You certainly will prefer to do most work on jack stands since it really is difficult to work under the trailer, but where my trailer is parked it's much easier to leave it on the trailer for quick work. If I were to do it again I would buy the full deck trailer just because it's easier to load and has more versatility for non-car items. Otherwise, I'm happy with mine.
I got a open deck econo-trailer from http://www.tptrailersinc.com/ in Limerick, PA. I went with an open deck but they sell them with the full deck. Seems to do the job nicely and fairly lightweight at 1350 lbs. Full deck is 1600 lbs.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
Hogwash = swill = a semiliquid food for animals (as swine) composed of edible refuse mixed with water or skimmed or sour milk.
Nice set up... do you find the 15 footer to be long enough?
Thanks for the info on where you bought your trailer too.
There are a couple places closer to me, but I haven't really researched what they have yet, save for the guy who thinks open trailers are hog-poo.
Thanks for the info on where you bought your trailer too.
There are a couple places closer to me, but I haven't really researched what they have yet, save for the guy who thinks open trailers are hog-poo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an open deck trailer. I have used the open "feature" a number of times to change the oil and repair the exhaust (which has been a recurrent problem for me). You certainly will prefer to do most work on jack stands since it really is difficult to work under the trailer, but where my trailer is parked it's much easier to leave it on the trailer for quick work. If I were to do it again I would buy the full deck trailer just because it's easier to load and has more versatility for non-car items. Otherwise, I'm happy with mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto. Allows me to get under the car and check things when its loaded down on the suspension. Kinda like a pit. Jackstands can't do that. Only useful for minor stuff, though, but I seem to be doing it all the time.
For me, the real thing is the weight savings. I like a lighweight trailer and a full deck is just extra weight.
--Andy
Ditto. Allows me to get under the car and check things when its loaded down on the suspension. Kinda like a pit. Jackstands can't do that. Only useful for minor stuff, though, but I seem to be doing it all the time.
For me, the real thing is the weight savings. I like a lighweight trailer and a full deck is just extra weight.
--Andy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6ghatch,
nice truck, is that the titan
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice set up... do you find the 15 footer to be long enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's just long enough, I may have gone with the Bri Mar if I wasn't trying to spend the least amount possible.
nice truck, is that the titan
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice set up... do you find the 15 footer to be long enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's just long enough, I may have gone with the Bri Mar if I wasn't trying to spend the least amount possible.
Have you guys noticed any big problems with loading lowered cars onto flatbed trailers? I'm in the market and there's a decent deal on a flatbed model from a local guy, but I was originally looking at dovetails. I would just drive the car there and try to drive it up on the trailer, but I'm getting a coilover setup soon and the car will be significantly lower than it is now. Anybody have any advice and/or preferences?
i like the closed better.. usually at the track or autocross, we put most of our junk on the trailer.. and as some others have mentioned, sometimes we need to haul other crapp..


driving the towing vehicle up a ramp first eliminated the problem for us about the lowered vehicle situation.. i've seen other trailers that can be lowered completely to the ground so that the car can drive straight off as if it was already on the ground.


driving the towing vehicle up a ramp first eliminated the problem for us about the lowered vehicle situation.. i've seen other trailers that can be lowered completely to the ground so that the car can drive straight off as if it was already on the ground.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kappa12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you guys noticed any big problems with loading lowered cars onto flatbed trailers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely. I have to back my truck onto ramps just liky syclone above, and I have a dove tail. My major problem is that my ramps that came with the trailer are too short (4'). 6-8' ramps would eliminate most of the problem.
Absolutely. I have to back my truck onto ramps just liky syclone above, and I have a dove tail. My major problem is that my ramps that came with the trailer are too short (4'). 6-8' ramps would eliminate most of the problem.
You can save yourself alot of time and effort if you are able to easily remove your front bumper cover/airdam/splitter assembly. Doing so makes the car as easy to load as a 4x4.
I voted open trailer as I am only hauling my car and want it to be as light and as economical as possible. In fact just ordered my trailer today
I voted open trailer as I am only hauling my car and want it to be as light and as economical as possible. In fact just ordered my trailer today
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rickpeak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can save yourself alot of time and effort if you are able to easily remove your front bumper cover/airdam/splitter assembly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I do remove the front airdam/splitter, but I still need the ramps. I high-center the middle of the car at a 5" ride height.
I do remove the front airdam/splitter, but I still need the ramps. I high-center the middle of the car at a 5" ride height.
I chose open deck for many of the reason above, but mainly for two reasons:
1. Cost = closed costs more money
2. Weight= I have a V6 truck with a 5000lb tow limit. I can carry more spares parts because the trailer weighs less.
Honestly, you can't go wrong with either.
1. Cost = closed costs more money
2. Weight= I have a V6 truck with a 5000lb tow limit. I can carry more spares parts because the trailer weighs less.
Honestly, you can't go wrong with either.
Just sold my open to get a full deck. I learned a valuable lesson with the Suburban I just sold - don't carry your mulch and topsoil in the back of it, or you'll crap up the interior.
The full deck will let me carry whatever homeowner guy stuff I need and not screw up my truck. Also handy for if you need to rent heavy equipment like a trencher (used one when I put in my sprinkler system) or carry large furniture.
The full deck will let me carry whatever homeowner guy stuff I need and not screw up my truck. Also handy for if you need to rent heavy equipment like a trencher (used one when I put in my sprinkler system) or carry large furniture.
Thanks for everyone's input.
I agree I probably couldn't go wrong either way, but ya'll gave me some personal insight as to what works best for you, and so I was able to pick out a few things.
I'm starting to lean towards the full deck for a couple reasons. I'm figuring the extra weight shouldn't be an issue because the tow vehicles I've been looking at are in the... Tahoe/Yukon/Suburan - ish family. Second, since those vehicles are not pickup trucks, the full deck might come in handy for other home duties, too. Besides, the full deck is only a few hundred dollars more... in for a penny, in for a pound. Lastly, I'm hoping not to wrench on my car too much during race weekends... [laugh here], so the benefit of an open-deck trailer won't be utilized.
This has been an interesting puzzle, fitting the car, the tow vehicle and the trailer together. Thanks again for everyone's input.
I agree I probably couldn't go wrong either way, but ya'll gave me some personal insight as to what works best for you, and so I was able to pick out a few things.
I'm starting to lean towards the full deck for a couple reasons. I'm figuring the extra weight shouldn't be an issue because the tow vehicles I've been looking at are in the... Tahoe/Yukon/Suburan - ish family. Second, since those vehicles are not pickup trucks, the full deck might come in handy for other home duties, too. Besides, the full deck is only a few hundred dollars more... in for a penny, in for a pound. Lastly, I'm hoping not to wrench on my car too much during race weekends... [laugh here], so the benefit of an open-deck trailer won't be utilized.
This has been an interesting puzzle, fitting the car, the tow vehicle and the trailer together. Thanks again for everyone's input.



