Suggestions to removing the tar left behind from sound deadening
I am currently trying to remove all the tar that was left over after removing the sound deadening. I used a sticker remover and that worked to remove the thin layers of left over residue but there are still thicker little pieces of the tar left over. What products will remove the rest? Can i use a grinder or anything to remove the rest or will that leave the exposed metal and have a chance to rust. I wanna clean up the inside as much as possible. thanks for the help.
-RJ
-RJ
After removing the chunks, I used a heat gun and a bunch of old towels/cloth to wipe it away. It's messy, but easily cleans right up. be careful though, hot tar sucks.
Heat gun and a putty knife for the thick stuff. Then paint thinner and paper towels for the thin residue. Careful with those wet paper towels; it really sucks when they spontaneously combust in your trash can...
Baby oil or WD-40 will get it off your hands better than solvent. Have a six pack near by and something good on the radio. You'll be there a while.
Thawley
Baby oil or WD-40 will get it off your hands better than solvent. Have a six pack near by and something good on the radio. You'll be there a while.
Thawley
Been there and used a simple Hyde putty knife and a hammer. The knife has a beveled edge and will help remove the stuff with minimal damage to the paint. You will need solvents afterward to get the rest off. We used a PPG product that is similar to Prep Sol (Dupont). There are those that use Dry Ice-it will work nicely. I did find that a heat gun works, but can actually slow the removal and is messier. A mask and beverages are not a bad idea-it will take a good bit of time.
Trending Topics
thanks for all the replys. i heard somewhere that thinners are not good products to use because they are flamable and even though you wipe off the thinner there is still gonna be some left on the floor of the car. is this true? after the tar is gone, is there a primer or something that i can use to put all over the floor? i wanna make the interior nicer looking but without having to pay too much or take it to a place to get it painted. i wanna do all the work myself.
well, ur from cali, so this wont work for you. but i helped a friend do his car and we did it in jan-feb months when it was 12 degrees here (NY). so i just hit it with a hammer to crack it and chip it out with a screwdriver. came right out and often in large peice with the tar. but thats only in quite cold temps
-spenc
-spenc
I did it in when it was cold out too. Use dry ice to freeze it then it chips right off no problem. Set a towel over it for fifteen min. Then move the ice and chip up the area while you freeze another part. If you do it this way it only leaves a little bit of cleaning afterward.
anyone ever tried to use some sort or aircraft paint stripper for that yellow-boiling acid stuff from home depot?
i already have the sound deadening out, i just want to get rid of the residue left. i heard that using a flammable liquid to remove the residue is dangerous. is this true? also, there is orange puddy like stuff on some parts of the car where the sound deadening used to be. can i remove that as well?
You can try those non-toxic removers and stuff, but they *probably* won't do the trick as fast as a more harmful, toxic, and flamable solvent.
I'm using Goo Gone on the remaining tar residue and I think I'm in the same boat as you cause once I remove it all I was planning on painting the interior a nice durable battleship gray.
Before you paint though you use an alcohol to remove all the remaining solvent and/or grease residue. Then I think you'll be in good shape to paint.
I'm using Goo Gone on the remaining tar residue and I think I'm in the same boat as you cause once I remove it all I was planning on painting the interior a nice durable battleship gray.
Before you paint though you use an alcohol to remove all the remaining solvent and/or grease residue. Then I think you'll be in good shape to paint.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rickpeak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lighter fluid works to remove any remaining residue</TD></TR></TABLE>
:FIRE: hehe, I'm guessing you meant just as a solvent
:FIRE: hehe, I'm guessing you meant just as a solvent
Guest
Posts: n/a
I use engine cleaner
You spray it thick and then drag a rag through it a few times the best part is just spray it on and wipe it up a few times and your done
Then I surface prep with 3m liquid sandpaper
You spray it thick and then drag a rag through it a few times the best part is just spray it on and wipe it up a few times and your done
Then I surface prep with 3m liquid sandpaper
does anyone know if you can remove the orange sticky tar like stuff? it seems like it's there holding the seams of the floor together.
i used adhesive remover. I got it at Home Depot, but I forget what it is called. It worked great. I just poured it on, spread it around where i needed it, let it sit for 15-20min and wiped/scrubed off and sprayed out with water. (2000 Civic Si) I had a drain hole in the bottom of my trunk.
I'll try to find the name of the product for everyone.
Modified by ajjohnsonnc1 at 8:39 PM 4/18/2004
I'll try to find the name of the product for everyone.
Modified by ajjohnsonnc1 at 8:39 PM 4/18/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My how-to: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=525936</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice write up!
My how-to: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=525936</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice write up!
i went to home depot and got the adhesive remover and it worked really well. but now i found out i have some rust in the driver side floorboard (its an 85 corolla so im not that surprised). i was still wondering though if that orange sticky residue can be removed. there is one long seem of it running in the back seat across the car and other various patches.it seems like its there to cover up the line where two pieces of the floor come together. i dont wanna remove it if its there for structural rigidity.
Yeah dryice works the best I am doing that right now, and it would be best to do it at night becuase in warm weather the tar tends to heat up more and stick. Also I found a chemical that removes the tar left over pretty well, its made by a company called Giachem, forgot the name of the chemical but if intrested PM me the guy gave me the chemical for free, so if you wanted it you probably pay for shipping unless you live in NoVA. This chemical has no nasty smell, in fact it smells like oranges, and is enviromentally safe to pour in the grass.
The Adhesive remover i got from Home Depot is called Klean Strip thick brushable paste. It worked great
and today i finished wet sanding the back half of the interior. I am ordering some EBP in a spray can from paintscratch.com
on a side note has anyone used this stuff before? Its only $65 shipped for primer, base-coat and clear-coat. I figure ever if i screw it up its only $65 and it will probably look better than my sanded down ugly ebp and primer mess that honda left for me under the SD.
and today i finished wet sanding the back half of the interior. I am ordering some EBP in a spray can from paintscratch.comon a side note has anyone used this stuff before? Its only $65 shipped for primer, base-coat and clear-coat. I figure ever if i screw it up its only $65 and it will probably look better than my sanded down ugly ebp and primer mess that honda left for me under the SD.


