going distributorless so what fits in the hole?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about another cam plug like on the exhaust side?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I read somewhere on here the cam plug doesn't fit but I'll give it a try when I get home and finish putting my motor together.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WangChung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">insert newb question here: how can you run distributorless? ive never heard of that. please explain.
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I'm not sure if you were being sarcastic or not but here it goes:
You can use coilpacks or direct fired units controlled by switch telling it when to fire the spark. A couple advantages of this is 1) getting rid of the POS they call a distributor and 2) a more accurate spark.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm not sure if you were being sarcastic or not but here it goes:
You can use coilpacks or direct fired units controlled by switch telling it when to fire the spark. A couple advantages of this is 1) getting rid of the POS they call a distributor and 2) a more accurate spark.
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correct me if im wrong but isnt it true when u use the AEM program it eliminates the distributor i heard that somewhere dunno if its true
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivichatch92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if im wrong but isnt it true when u use the AEM program it eliminates the distributor i heard that somewhere dunno if its true</TD></TR></TABLE>
I might be wrong but I believe that there is a certain kit you can buy for the AEM unit that will allow you to elminate the distributor and fire off through a crank trigger and wheel but I am not sure. I don't have any real experience with it.
I might be wrong but I believe that there is a certain kit you can buy for the AEM unit that will allow you to elminate the distributor and fire off through a crank trigger and wheel but I am not sure. I don't have any real experience with it.
I guess they answered your original question so I'll take a crack at the other ones.
Most if not all cars today are distributerless. Less maintenance, one less rotating part. Coil on plug with four individual coil packs is the best. On my Corolla I'm using the AEM EMS with two RX7 coil packs firing the "waste spark". Never plugged the distributer hole, the distributer is still in there and I think we're using the internal cam sensor. I planned on having a piece of aluminum sheet metal welded over the hole.
The AEM doesn't force you to eliminate your distributor, but makes it possible.
The advantages are less maintenance, better more accurate spark (good for FI), one less oil seal on the head, the ability to tune the ignition timing independently of cam speed. It's just cleaner, but you wont see a hp gain outside of external factors.
Most if not all cars today are distributerless. Less maintenance, one less rotating part. Coil on plug with four individual coil packs is the best. On my Corolla I'm using the AEM EMS with two RX7 coil packs firing the "waste spark". Never plugged the distributer hole, the distributer is still in there and I think we're using the internal cam sensor. I planned on having a piece of aluminum sheet metal welded over the hole.
The AEM doesn't force you to eliminate your distributor, but makes it possible.
The advantages are less maintenance, better more accurate spark (good for FI), one less oil seal on the head, the ability to tune the ignition timing independently of cam speed. It's just cleaner, but you wont see a hp gain outside of external factors.
Here is my coil on plug conversion. I heard about this on the AEM forums, and its actually pretty popular over there. Im not running the wasted spark mode on this setup each coil is fired on its own. I had to pin my harness for for wires to run for the ems to the dis to tell it when to fire. I run the AEM EMS obviously. The coils I used are off a 929rr along with the harness. It took aobut 4hours to hook everything up.


I keep my distributor on cause I didnt like the other options for running the sensor. Leaving it there doesnt bother me much and I like the look on peoples face when they see the car running and no spark plug wires.
Yeah the coil pack method reminds me of my golf 1.8T and the reason why I got rid of it. 3 burnt coilpacks and the dealer telling me it was my fault because I ran my car to hard
They replaced them for free but that was enough for me to get rid of the car after 9 months.
The electromotive tec3 uses direct fire units(dfu's) to fire the spark. Basically, its a distributor that uses a crank trigger wheel instead of a cam sensor.
They replaced them for free but that was enough for me to get rid of the car after 9 months.The electromotive tec3 uses direct fire units(dfu's) to fire the spark. Basically, its a distributor that uses a crank trigger wheel instead of a cam sensor.
back from the dead....
Redlineracer....how were you able to eliminate the dizzy completely? what did you replace the ca sensor with?
Redlineracer....how were you able to eliminate the dizzy completely? what did you replace the ca sensor with?
The biggest plus to (EI) Electronic Ignition is the ECU or Ignition Control Module (AEM if you prefer) can adjust your ignition timing to produce to the most power possible for each individual cylinder. With a Coil on Plug setup, it's just easier to diagnose. If you suspect one coil is bad, take the one next to it shove it onto the other spark plug.
The only downside that I see is that it cost more money. I'm not too sure how much a coil pack will cost, but I know that for a consumer an OEM ignition coil will set you back roughly 80 bucks.. Now if the coil pack were say 50 bucks a piece minimum and all four went out (very unlikely), you'd be stuck with a 200 bill..
But that's just how I see it, believe whatever you want..
The only downside that I see is that it cost more money. I'm not too sure how much a coil pack will cost, but I know that for a consumer an OEM ignition coil will set you back roughly 80 bucks.. Now if the coil pack were say 50 bucks a piece minimum and all four went out (very unlikely), you'd be stuck with a 200 bill..
But that's just how I see it, believe whatever you want..
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eater_eg6
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Oct 9, 2005 06:28 AM
b18c1, changing, coil, control, crank, distributorless, e85, electromotive, fireengine, fits, gsr, hole, honda, hondatech, individual, kit, packs, tech3r, teciii, unit



this is a b18c1 btw




