Ok, I have on the table a great deal for a clean-title 2k1 ITR (below book value).

It starts and drives... sorta.

When I hit ~4500 rpm, the tach goes nuts and the car loses power. Its like its trying to go into VTEC, but failing to do so. It doesn't stall, the tach just jumps all over the place (but engine doesn't rev with the tach), if I let off the gas, I can continue on if I keep the revs under 4500.

What do you guys think? cam gear(s)? vtec solenoid? The place that has it doesn't know much about it... it was traded in. The sales guy says it has ODBI conversion (but he might be full of sh*t).

Its obvious the engine has been opened before, as the idiot left off one of the valve cover bolts and it sprays oil a bit.

The car itself is in decent shape. Looks like minor accident was repaired on passenger side (vin stickers are on all panels still), full stock interior intact.

Opinions? I'm not getting it free or anything, but for a really good price, and if I can fix it for a few grand, then I'll be a happy camper.


Modified by Pigpen at 5:58 AM 4/2/2004

 

Well, it all depends howmuch below the actual value of the car.


If you were paying $17 to 18k for it and still had to do all that fixing then its not worth it.

If you were paying somewhere around 12 to 14k then why not... and if you don't get it , let me know and I'll buy it ! I've been eyeing Arrrghs for quite sometime now.

hth.

 

well, apparently its a great deal, so go get it.

 

If it's cheap enough, anything's worth it.

 

We haven't finalized the price yet, but Its cheap.

However, if I have to swap in a new engine cuz the current one is wrecked, then Its cheaper to go buy one at market price that has a good engine.

 

Well, you ARE going to replace most of the engine parts anyways?
some ti retainers here, a little high compression pistons there, you get the hint

 

Sounds like it could be the distributor, mine is kind of doing the same, tach goes wild, loose alittle power, but maybe yours is in worse shape. Id give the thing a comporession test as well as leak down b4 you make decisions.

 

whats the price on the car? hopefully below 10k maybe with that kinda prob and damage.

*edit* post # 187 lol

 

My humble opinion if I were in your shoes ...

Pros:
* Its an ITR and if you really want it then get it.
* Price seems to be a "plus" on your side.
* It seems that the body is not an issue nor is the interior so that's another "plus" on your side.

Cons:
I think the only issue here is the "unknown" condition of the engine but you could see that as an opportunity to make it better.

What I would do ..

Pull the ECU and see if it was "converted" to confirm what the dealer is saying. Depending on what you find, go back to an OEM ECU or an aftermarket unit that you like.

Second, thoroughly check the engine.. compression, spark, pull the dizzy cap and check it, look for traces of NOS or forced induction, etc .etc. .. Again, depending on what you find and assuming that the block is in good shape, you might want to pull the head and get it rectified and add some nice cams, etc.. If the block is bad, then you have to re-think the strategy .. For example, a piston swap is not too expensive, but if you need to replace crankshaft, sleeves, etc.. then your bill will climb ..

All in all, if you really like the car, and don't mind working on it a little bit (if you're like the rest of us, you'll be working on it anyway!!)... buy it !!

 

Integra with a broken engine = not worth much more than $6k-7k, R or not..

ceas..