I got a connector like the one below. I also bought a custom length hose.



The directions say to take off the RED part and slide it on the hose, and then SCREW IT ON.

PROBLEM. I can't get the RED part to slide onto the HOSE!!! How do you guys get it in? It's a Earls Steel Braided Hose that's supposed to fit. This is a 6AN Line going into a 6AN Connector.

Anyone have any secrets?


Modified by cpforyou at 10:10 PM 4/1/2004

 

put some motor oil on the hose and inside the red fitting.....

it is suppose to be tuffto get on, so they dont leak.

you just need to try a little harder.

 

put some masking tape on the SS braid..
cut it with something fast and sharp (dremel) and make sure it slides on.....

viola ..... that way u dont strand it while u try to put it on

 

what i usually do is make sure the braided line is cut straight and with no freying at the end, then i get the proper sized socket to fit over the red part, then put a ratchet on the socket and press while i turn it, that aplies more force and is easier to turn and wont give you major hand cramps (you avoid the steel splinters going into your hands aswell) its still a pain in the *** though

 

http://www.fast-turbo.com/anlines.html

I actually followed directions on this website, and I can't get it on. It ends up frayying the steel braids, so I have to wrap up the tape again, and cut that part off.

 

off topic question but on topic, i have all aeroquip drain line and fittings and was wondering if you guys weld the bung in the pan or goop up the thing and put a nut on the other side?

 

weld it... the way i see it is, if that fitting comes off, you can say goodbye to your engine, and turbo within about 30 seconds if it isnt noticed

 

What about sliding it on from the other end first? The fitting looks like it has a wider opening at one end. At least you could get one fitting on, then fight with the other....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turboteggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about sliding it on from the other end first? The fitting looks like it has a wider opening at one end. At least you could get one fitting on, then fight with the other.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Only people with experiance should contribute to this thread.

edit: I prefer duct tape over masking tape for the cut, it seems to hold up a bit better.

 

One of my friends had a fitting like that and a braded hose. It was a for a dedicated fuel system for his nos setup.

He could not get it together. So I tried. I couldint get it together either. Then I trimmed the steel brading back a 1/4" to see if I could just shove the rubber part of the hose in there. Nope. Even tried it with oil. No matter how hard we tried to shove the hose in the red piece we couldint get them together.

I told him to take it to earls to see if there some magical trick to it. I dunno if has gone yed because he has a million other projects going on right now because he is restoring a lemanse. But for now we believe that the hose we have is the wrong size.

good luck.

Maby the hose is the wrong size.

 

Duct tape works well. Honestly putting this stuff together is easy, and all you need is good old fashioned common sense.

If you can't do it, pick up some barbed nipples, rubber hose, and some clamps instead.

Damn that sounds like a recipe for something nassssty!

 

if you cut close to the end of the tape you don't even have to take the tape off, this will keep it from fraying. I have made high pressure 2000 psi hydraulic lines like this and never had a problem. Cutting near the end of the tape makes sure that the fitting hides the tape

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turboteggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about sliding it on from the other end first? The fitting looks like it has a wider opening at one end. At least you could get one fitting on, then fight with the other.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you can get the fitting on that way ill give you 20 dollars!

Note: the other end of the red fitting has a hole that is about 1/4 inch compared to the 3/4 inch side that is already hard enough

 

I use electrical tape, screw this duct tape crap.

wrap a few layers of electrical real tight, cut, slip line over.

Now of course if you have a fitting for -3 and are trying to put it on -4 line...it will never work.

 

i just cut it with a bandsaw then shoved it up in there then applied a lot of pressure when screwing the red part back on... worked fine for me.

maybe go ask your big brother or your dad to put a little more elbow grease into it for yah


Modified by dunkd at 10:17 PM 4/1/2004

 

lube it up and then turbo and push in really hard...
maybe you're just weak

 

I once had one give me similiar trouble. I ended up taking it to the grinder and grinding down the braided hose so that is was tapered and slid into the fitting. Kinda ghetto but it worked and had held up fine since.

-Ryan

 

I use electircal tape on mine, its really simple, you just have to stretch the **** outta the tape to make it tight and dont put it on too thick (two layers is good).

 

here's how i usually put them together

1) get a vise...preferably with aluminum jaws.....wont scratch the fittings
2) wrap tape around the hose where you will terminate it
3) place hose in vise, secure, and cut
-i use a high speed right angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel....very fast and very clean cut.....no burrs or fraying
4) remove tape
5) lubricate "red" fitting
6) place "red" fitting on hose....try and slide on
7) if need be, place "red" fitting and on a flat surface (wood table) and hold, push the hose in as far as you need.....tapping it in can help
8) place the flat surfaces of the "red" fitting with inserted hose in the vise....make sure threads are clean
9)lubricate blue fitting....i use motor oil
10) thread or fasten the "blue" fitting to the "red" fitting.....dont strip it
11)make sure the line is clean
12)install
13)check for leaks....make sure the hose didnt back out

you can also use a sharpened chisel and a big hammer to cut the line.....just dont miss

 

THA TURMINATOR IS JAVA!

 

I quit putting togeth custom **** and started buying premade ones to the length I need. It's more expensive and wasteful, but I'm tired of fighting with fittings.

 

It's not real hard if you can keep the fraying to a minimum.

We use a giant hose cutter to cut it straight. It does smash it a little, but it hasn't done anything to it that I can't get the braided line into the fitting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R THIS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weld it... the way i see it is, if that fitting comes off, you can say goodbye to your engine, and turbo within about 30 seconds if it isnt noticed</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually, you can't weld some aluminium to a stainless steel braided line, even if you can, that would have to be a hard line in Aluminium...

kranked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kranked91dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually, you can't weld some aluminium to a stainless steel braided line, even if you can, that would have to be a hard line in Aluminium...

kranked.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he was talking about the bung....

FYI earls fittings are really hard to get on....
Stan (Flamenco-T) hose ends are really easy to use!

 

How do you test the line to make sure you've assembled it properly and there are no leaks?

I was thinking of hooking it up to a air compressor and seeing if it will hold 80 psi or so.