what springs to buy
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: allison park, pa, united states
what springs to buy
i have a 94 gsr integra i just got a set of koni yellow struts from a friend. ill break it down for ya i like to beat the **** out of my car on the road and on the track. i autocross on weekends and road race. im throwing comfort out the door i just want the best handleing spring i can get. like my gf says the stiffer the better. give me some suggestions. thanks
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From: Standing on the corner selling cocaine, rippin shows live on stage for hoes yellin my name
Re: what springs to buy (crx-r1)
Ones with very stiff spring rates, for track racing use something 500-700 lb in the front 900-1200 lb in the rear. World Challenge Integras use that type of spring rate. I am sure there is some companies that could make you custom spring rates for whatever you choose. I only reccomend these spring rates because you said forget about comfort. If you would still like to retain some of the comfort but remain stiff, just divide those rates in half and go with that.
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Richmond, Va
Re: (Kendall)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call up Ground Control and order a set. The GC/Koni combination is a favorite of Integra autocrossers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is the setup i will eventually have!
this is the setup i will eventually have!
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From: BeaveRun, PA, USA
Re: (Kendall)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call up Ground Control and order a set. The GC/Koni combination is a favorite of Integra autocrossers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll 3rd that. If a stiff race suspension is what you're after, I don't think you can steer wrong with that.
I'll 3rd that. If a stiff race suspension is what you're after, I don't think you can steer wrong with that.
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From: BeaveRun, PA, USA
Re: (crx-r1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx-r1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any spacific spring rate</TD></TR></TABLE>
A few posts above are a good recommendation.
I'd say 700-1000 for the front and 1200-1400 for the rear.
Depending on what else is modified in the suspension really. you don't want understeer, but you don't want too tight and have oversteer.
Some racers will tell you that 1400 is too soft!
A few posts above are a good recommendation.
I'd say 700-1000 for the front and 1200-1400 for the rear.
Depending on what else is modified in the suspension really. you don't want understeer, but you don't want too tight and have oversteer.
Some racers will tell you that 1400 is too soft!
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From: BeaveRun, PA, USA
Re: (Hanisbb21)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanisbb21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have two questions... is the higher the number, the stiffer the strut? and if so, why would the front struts have a lower number (the engine weight is in the front so i figured you would need it stiffer)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The higher the number the stiffer the spinrg. Not the shock. And it is a shock, not a strut. The springs are in charge of multiple things when it comes to racing. When you change the spring rates, different things will happen. If the front springs are stiffer than the rear, you may cause severe oversteer, and the rear end wil come out and you will spin. read this, and see if it helps:
Besides supporting the weight of the cabin, springs also affect how the weight in the car is distributed. For those of you with upgraded springs, you might have noticed the car doesn’t rock back as far when launching. Springs push against whatever force is applied to it, so when your car leans in a direction, the springs counteract that. The stiffer the spring, the more it prevents weight transfer. This is why racecars use stiff spring rates. On uneven terrain, though, the spring might not react quickly enough to keep the wheel in contact with the ground.
The higher the number the stiffer the spinrg. Not the shock. And it is a shock, not a strut. The springs are in charge of multiple things when it comes to racing. When you change the spring rates, different things will happen. If the front springs are stiffer than the rear, you may cause severe oversteer, and the rear end wil come out and you will spin. read this, and see if it helps:
Besides supporting the weight of the cabin, springs also affect how the weight in the car is distributed. For those of you with upgraded springs, you might have noticed the car doesn’t rock back as far when launching. Springs push against whatever force is applied to it, so when your car leans in a direction, the springs counteract that. The stiffer the spring, the more it prevents weight transfer. This is why racecars use stiff spring rates. On uneven terrain, though, the spring might not react quickly enough to keep the wheel in contact with the ground.
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From: BeaveRun, PA, USA
Re: (crx-r1)
trust me, you'll live and learn. I've made mistakes with my Teg. I've had it almost 4 years now, and everything has been coming together for me and I have understood more in the past year than I ever have.
This kind of stuff is a huge learning process. But, once you get the hang of asking questions, reading up on why things work, it will all make sense to you and you will be able to make you own conclusions when the time comes too.
This kind of stuff is a huge learning process. But, once you get the hang of asking questions, reading up on why things work, it will all make sense to you and you will be able to make you own conclusions when the time comes too.
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From: BeaveRun, PA, USA
Re: (aznstyler119)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznstyler119 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">APEXI N1 FULL COILOVER....never tried it...but assumin...it's good...hehe...any thing exspensive if u say u want the best..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to make you the center of attention or anything, but it is comments and assumptions like this which lead no where.
Obviously you know nothing about the product, because you are assuming that they are good because they are expensive and made by a reputable company.
But if you don't know how the N1 coilover functions and what it was designed for, it will do you no good.
Not to make you the center of attention or anything, but it is comments and assumptions like this which lead no where.
Obviously you know nothing about the product, because you are assuming that they are good because they are expensive and made by a reputable company.
But if you don't know how the N1 coilover functions and what it was designed for, it will do you no good.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: allison park, pa, united states
Re: (ScreaminTeg)
i ordered a jdm type r 23mm rear sway bar, i custom made a rear lower tie bar along with c piller bar and trunk braces, megan racing lca's, and pollyurathane bushings. but i was stuck on the springs
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From: Hendersonville, NC
There are two basic spring rate setups for performance oriented Integra's.
Option number one is the "very stiff up from and more so in the back" setup that utilizes a spring rate stiff enough to eliminate as much body roll as possible both in the front and the back. Being that the car is driven by the front wheels, the back end gets flung around a bit more and is more prone to excessive body roll, thus justifying the stiffer rear springs.
Option number two is the "stiff as hell up front and soft as a pillow in the rear" setup. This setup isn't widely used as it's extremely tricky to setup properly and even more difficult to get used to. It uses a stiff front setting to elminate would-be body roll up front, however the rear is set soft in order to induce body roll. When the car's weight rolls past a certain point, the rear tires begin to lose their ideal contact patch thus causing the rear to break loose resulting in oversteer. This oversteer can be easily corrected due to the easy power transfer of a stiff front end. The major benefit of this setup is it allows you to enter a corner at higher speeds while knowing that your car will oversteer thus causing the driver to make a slight increase in throttle input to correct, resulting in more speed through the corner and a higher exit speed. The downside of this is that you will have to learn how to drive pretty damn good, and your rear tires will wear out faster.
I'm running an Ohlins PCV coilover setup, tuned for the option number two.
Option number one is the "very stiff up from and more so in the back" setup that utilizes a spring rate stiff enough to eliminate as much body roll as possible both in the front and the back. Being that the car is driven by the front wheels, the back end gets flung around a bit more and is more prone to excessive body roll, thus justifying the stiffer rear springs.
Option number two is the "stiff as hell up front and soft as a pillow in the rear" setup. This setup isn't widely used as it's extremely tricky to setup properly and even more difficult to get used to. It uses a stiff front setting to elminate would-be body roll up front, however the rear is set soft in order to induce body roll. When the car's weight rolls past a certain point, the rear tires begin to lose their ideal contact patch thus causing the rear to break loose resulting in oversteer. This oversteer can be easily corrected due to the easy power transfer of a stiff front end. The major benefit of this setup is it allows you to enter a corner at higher speeds while knowing that your car will oversteer thus causing the driver to make a slight increase in throttle input to correct, resulting in more speed through the corner and a higher exit speed. The downside of this is that you will have to learn how to drive pretty damn good, and your rear tires will wear out faster.
I'm running an Ohlins PCV coilover setup, tuned for the option number two.
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