I have in my hatch a b18c.

The block says b18c not b18c1...so that would mean it is a JDM block, weather or not the piston are from the b18c (SIR-G) and not the USDM b18c1 i do not know. My tranny is a s80 fom a USMD non LSD. I do not want contriversy when i start kicking *** this year in my class.

1) What class in solo does this place me? SM or SM1?
2) anyone know how i can see this without taking the head off.
3) Yes i can test the compression, what would be the differnce in compression from a 10.0 to a 10.8 compression.

 

Don't worry about it too much, I doubt you will kick all that much *** in SM(no offence, just there are a lot faster cars than a swapped hatch in SM). As for your question, I don't have an answer, there is a thread around with the email addy of someone at the SCCA who could probably answer your question.

 

As long as you have a full interior (except for rear seat) then you should be in Street Modified regardless of whether you have a JDM engine or a USDM engine.

Don't worry about kicking *** for now if you are a novice. Worry about getting seat time and driving experience. I would suggest attending an Evolution autocross school after you've been to a few autocross events.

 

My concern is that this year i expect FTD and definatly place in top 3 in SM.

There may be faster cars, but they are all in Street Prep in my area or Sm1 (silly CRX's).. my area SM is not as bad as stock, Street Prep, and SM1.

 

In SM you are allowed to change blocks, pistons, cams... so I don't se why anyone would protest you for your block or pistons.

Your car is in SM. I have never heard of SM1 (some local class?) but I assume you mean SM2 which is SM for 2 seaters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My concern is that this year i expect FTD and definatly place in top 3 in SM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not gonna happen if there is any sort of competition in your region (FTD at least).

http://www.topachievement.com/smart.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I doubt you will kick all that much *** in SM(no offence, just there are a lot faster cars than a swapped hatch in SM).</TD></TR></TABLE>

umm, i beg to differ. the only other car to worry about in SM in a m3, and even those will crumble and fall eventually.


Modified by rodney at 8:52 PM 3/31/2004

 

Come on, a well sorted E36....well this debate is for another thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Come on, a well sorted E36....well this debate is for another thread </TD></TR></TABLE>

no need to debate it. if anything is going to dethrone a e36, it will be a n/a swapped hatch.

b hatch, stick with your swapped hatchie, as many people underrate them.

 

yea, chris is right. a hatch with a built motor and serious lsd will dethrone the e36's. maybe even a red one with pimp front fenders

but on the topic, u can run a built b series in a hatch in sm. so why not a stock jdm engine?

-spenc
ps-eg's will do ok till the red ef comes to sts with the black roof. then all your base are belong to us.

 

Cool stuff Rodney. How high above minimum weight is your Civic? How much lighter do you think you'd be starting with a non-sunroof car?

 

i corner weight my car Sunday, we will see what the weight is then.

Last time was 1040kg with driver... 800 kg is the limit without driver for SM i belive.

 

1800lbs. is the limit for 3.0 NA FWD. Our '89 Civic Si for STS is down to about 2000lbs., but I don't think I could make 1800 with SM allowances, even without gaining weight in the motor. Maybe with a non-sunroof car...

 

Where can i find this information on Import engine swaps from the SCCA?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jzr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool stuff Rodney. How high above minimum weight is your Civic? How much lighter do you think you'd be starting with a non-sunroof car?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

sunroof can now be plugged

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can i find this information on Import engine swaps from the SCCA?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jzr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool stuff Rodney. How high above minimum weight is your Civic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol.... min weight is 1800 lbs. my car currently (sunroof plug, fiberglass fenders/hood etc) weighs in at 2216. i could cut some things like the big brakes, swaybars etc but the car works so damn good as is, i would be afraid to mess something up. i do however have a almost stock b series, so it is all dependent on the mighty buck. anyone motor builders out there want to sponsor one of the fastest Scca SM cars in the country?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.... min weight is 1800 lbs. my car currently (sunroof plug, fiberglass fenders/hood etc) weighs in at 2216. i could cut some things like the big brakes, swaybars etc </TD></TR></TABLE> heh heh, thats where my '92 CX/GSR hybrid SM car comes into play, I will be running stock front CX brakes, a fiberglass hoodskin, and probably no swaybars. I'll also be trying out my diy-ITB's and I removed the rollbar to save some weight (55 pounds)

wish I could get some lightweight shock assemblies like ZEAL superfunctions but those are too much $$$
*Hey rodney if you can think of any simple replacement parts that I could make for us out of aluminun here at work to save weight, lemme know and I'll make some for us both

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol.... min weight is 1800 lbs. my car currently (sunroof plug, fiberglass fenders/hood etc) weighs in at 2216. i could cut some things like the big brakes, swaybars etc but the car works so damn good as is, i would be afraid to mess something up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm looking at my brakes. I was surprised how much less the Wilwood brake kit weighed that they tested in Grassroots last month. I think they saved around 6 lbs per corner, and that was compared to the Si brakes (smaller than itr's). But I dunno if they'll fit under 15" wheels. Anyway, I thought it was an interesting way to remove nearly 24 lbs of unsprung weight. Too bad there isn't a pint sized version to fit over my 13" beer kegs...

 

I have a FastBrakes Wilwood front brake setup on my EF. The calipers are the forged (I think, definitely not billet) Superlites, and the rotors are 11.75" 2 piece with aluminum hats. I had to swap over to 90-91 EX front knuckles.

I weighed the stock knuckles/calipers/rotors/pads/etc... and the FastBrakes calipers/rotors/pads/knuckles, and they were within 1/2 pound of each other.

There are only 2 disadvantages to these brakes that I can see; They have the mass a little further out (larger diameter rotors), and I can't fit anything smaller than a 15" wheel.

However, the brakes never fade, and the pedal is really light and pretty short travel, which makes it super easy to modulate at the limit.

My EF with D15 motor, and tons of mods weighs 1,950 lbs in SM trim.

 

Ehh, even though the topic of the thread has shifted, I just wanted to give the original poster a straight answer.

You can run any motor in your car as long as it's produced by the original manufacturer. With your motor, you are good to go in SM. I won my region last year in SM with a type r motor and some other motor work. it's not that tough to win if you can carry your speed, and utilize the little power that your motor will have on the straights.

I say good luck to you my friend!

 

Looks like there are more SM Civics in this forum that I previously thought...

If I ever learn to drive, I may be competitive, perhaps.

NWR/SCCA has about 10-20 SM entries in every event and most everyone is pretty damn fast.

 

I answered you already. Our P1/P2 classes DO NOT use the same rules as the SCCA SM/SM2. Only the Stock and SP classes use the SCCA rules.

Translated section 7.2.2 of the FAQ rules: Swapping of parts between different vehicles of the same manufactuer NOT AVAILABLE in North America is permitted in P1 only.

Which bumps any car so equipped into P1.

If you need any help with translating any sections that are unclear to you, let me know, I will gladly help.

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by owen_the_soyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*Hey rodney if you can think of any simple replacement parts that I could make for us out of aluminun here at work to save weight, lemme know and I'll make some for us both </TD></TR></TABLE>

you are going to regret that my friend.... first off, front lower control arms. a cumpsteer kit would also be nice. hmm... those are just off the top of my head. gimme a few minutes and i could prob come up with a billion more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I answered you already. Our P1/P2 classes DO NOT use the same rules as the SCCA SM/SM2. Only the Stock and SP classes use the SCCA rules.

Translated section 7.2.2 of the FAQ rules: Swapping of parts between different vehicles of the same manufactuer NOT AVAILABLE in North America is permitted in P1 only.

Which bumps any car so equipped into P1.

If you need any help with translating any sections that are unclear to you, let me know, I will gladly help.

Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes and thanks John for clearning that up for me afterwards.