Whats a good price for skunk cams?
Somebody correct me if i am wrong and i have a feeling that i am but i thought the skunks were supposed to be very comparible to stock!!
Not skunk2 stage 2s..... or stage 3
Skunk2 stage 1 = similar to Toda A, mild.
2 and 3 are a different story.
You need to consider compression ratio, tuning, injectors, stuff like that.
Cams are NOT a drop in type solution to making power. The whole head/block package needs to be considered.
Skunk2 stage 1 = similar to Toda A, mild.
2 and 3 are a different story.
You need to consider compression ratio, tuning, injectors, stuff like that.
Cams are NOT a drop in type solution to making power. The whole head/block package needs to be considered.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR #1202 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was quoted $950.00 for a set of new skunk 2 stage 2 cams, skunk retainers and skunk valve springs. does that sound like a good price?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that seems like a fairly good price. i think i bought my skunk cams for like 680.
that seems like a fairly good price. i think i bought my skunk cams for like 680.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not skunk2 stage 2s..... or stage 3
Skunk2 stage 1 = similar to Toda A, mild.
2 and 3 are a different story.
You need to consider compression ratio, tuning, injectors, stuff like that.
Cams are NOT a drop in type solution to making power. The whole head/block package needs to be considered.</TD></TR></TABLE>
To further elaborate on what Chris said, not only that, but you cant just bolt that stuff on and expect it to work right. You will need to get some kind of tuning done, and it would be good to have some adjustable cam gears as well.
Skunk2 stage 1 = similar to Toda A, mild.
2 and 3 are a different story.
You need to consider compression ratio, tuning, injectors, stuff like that.
Cams are NOT a drop in type solution to making power. The whole head/block package needs to be considered.</TD></TR></TABLE>
To further elaborate on what Chris said, not only that, but you cant just bolt that stuff on and expect it to work right. You will need to get some kind of tuning done, and it would be good to have some adjustable cam gears as well.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To further elaborate on what Chris said, not only that, but you cant just bolt that stuff on and expect it to work right. You will need to get some kind of tuning done, and it would be good to have some adjustable cam gears as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Totally correct, sorry for the ommission.
Also... A VAFC or 'chipped ECU' really isn't going to do the trick.
I'm preplexed by Toda B's with stock compression and VAFCs as an example - what a waste.
It's a lot of thinking, research, time, preparation, etc. IMO, for me, its a very daunting task to do right - and to do it wrong can be a very expensive mistake.
To further elaborate on what Chris said, not only that, but you cant just bolt that stuff on and expect it to work right. You will need to get some kind of tuning done, and it would be good to have some adjustable cam gears as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Totally correct, sorry for the ommission.
Also... A VAFC or 'chipped ECU' really isn't going to do the trick.
I'm preplexed by Toda B's with stock compression and VAFCs as an example - what a waste.
It's a lot of thinking, research, time, preparation, etc. IMO, for me, its a very daunting task to do right - and to do it wrong can be a very expensive mistake.
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