ok the fan on my 90 hatch isnt working,shop said i needed a coolant temp. switch...ok so im gonna order one,but
1. how can i test the old one before i take it out ..
2.how do u take it out.
3. how do u hard wire the fan to a switch in the cabin for the fan...

much appreciation for any informative replies...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2.how do u take it out...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I removed the dizzy cause I didnt have a deep socket, threw a 17mm wrench on it and it came out really easy.

 

It would be much easier to test if the fan works. Attach an ohm meter and check for any grounds. If there is a ground in the motor then you need to replace the motor. If not it is your switch. You are better off replacing the switch than installing a switch in the cabin area. It will cost you the same amount of money and certainly less of a hassle.

Good luck,
Dave

 

well the sensor is on the back of the block..... not under the dizzy.... the one under the dizzy only goes to the temp guage inside... the one on the back of the block goes to the ECU and relays to the fan......... you could go either way.... i personally like to be in control of everydamn thing i can on my car.... you could simply hard-wire it ..... look at the fan.... see the green plug?.... un plug and cut the side on the harness end... not the fan side!.... run a simple relay..... and the switch inside.... very easy...... also can test fan by hooking up the battery for a sec to the two wires on the plug.... jump it.... well, if it comes on it works ... right?!!! good luck

 

i heard if u put the two wires on the cts connector together and the fan comes on the switch is no good but if the fan doesnt come on the switch is good..or vice versa...

the priblem im having is the car is overheating when in traffic...radiator and thermostat is brand new,i took it to a shop and they said i was the cts...

so is it hard to get at it behind the block..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so is it hard to get at it behind the block..</TD></TR></TABLE>

not really, just gotta go ahead and perform an oil change to make it easier. take off the old oil fiter and right there it is, easy to change that way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard if u put the two wires on the cts connector together and the fan comes on the switch is no good </TD></TR></TABLE>

the CTS provides ground to the cooling fan relay which then provides a complete circuit for the fan. if you jump the two connectors at the CTS switch (with the ignition turned to start) and the fan comes on, you have a bad CTS.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18b-se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but if the fan doesnt come on the switch is good..</TD></TR></TABLE>

that could be true but its possible the cooling fan relay is dead too.
14 year old relays have been known to die (from my own experience)

hth,
J

 

Touch the 2 wires together that go to the switch.. If the fan comes on then its the switch..

 

thanks fellas...helped me out the hole..