I though my ignitor was out so I spent $125 on a OEM ingitor.
I put the new one in and it didn't work.
I put the old one in and replaced the rotor cap and it worked....

With honda parts there are no returns if the package is open. However there is a one year warentee on it if I can prove that it is bad.

So..... how do i test if the ignitor is good or bad?

 

anyone know?

 

I know that NAPA tests ignitors...well at least the one here does. Not sure how much it costs though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline130 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know that NAPA tests ignitors...well at least the one here does. Not sure how much it costs though. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i already called them.... nope...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do i test if the ignitor is good or bad?[/B]</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's some tests to tell if it's working:

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL
(malfunction indicator lamp).
•If the MIL doesn’t come on, or it comes on and
stays on, refer to MIL Basics on this page.
•If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then goes
off, go to step 2.

2. Check for battery voltage at the positive wire going
to the coil, and at the positive wire going to the ICM.
•If you have battery voltage, go to step 3.
•If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and the
coil.

3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
•If you get about 8 V with the wire connected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
•If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconnected, install a new ICM, and retest.