got an '89 EF with a ZC swap...everything is mostly running good except for the fact that it bogs between 3700 rpm and 4000 rpm...why? check engine light goes on after 5 minutes. what could this be? let me know

 

Count the blinks on the ecu.
what ecu did you use?

 

it throws a code: 1 wich is o2 sensor...but it comes on only after driving for 3-5minutes. it bogs at around 3700 rpm and 4000 rpm...if i gas it pass that, its fine...but if i stay around the 3700-4000 range it hesitates...maybe fuel or timing? im using a PG7 ECU

 

I think you answeared your own question when you said o2 sensor.
Replace it and your problems will be gone

 

just replaced TODAY. didnt work...and it still bogs, without the check engine light on

 

i know you said that it is a o2 sensor problem, but have you tried checking everything else?? like sensors, wires, cables??? if you have then you may want to invest in a new wireharness...

 

Check your distributor. Does the Tach get jumpy at that speed. The ZC distributer can exibit this just before the bearings go south.

 

If it was the dizzy, I don't think it would be bogging, check your hose's for leaks that could very well be a problem. Also, I am not saying it could not be your dizzy, I am just trying to save you money you don't need to spend, if it something very small. Go have the timing corrected well your at it .

 

I had a similar sounding problem. It threw the O2 code and only the O2 code. I replaced the map sensor and it went away. Go figure!?!?

I wouldn't say that is your problem without feeling the actual problem, but keep that in mind if all else fails. It took me quite a while before I tried the MAP for the hell of it.

 

Make sure you ground wire on to the block is there and tight.. I bet you forgot to hook it up..

 

He isn't throwing any other code's though. So why would it be electrical? That would make no since. Maybe his grounds are bad, but not off.

 

If the ignition is not firing properly it will indicate a rich condition on the O2 sensor. Remember it does not show the code right away but after he has driven it for a while. Find a friend who has the same distributer and swap it out for verfication before buying a new one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tpr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the ignition is not firing properly it will indicate a rich condition on the O2 sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. That was the problem when my MAP sensor died. It was bogging because the car was dumping more fuel than needed.

I don't think this is a distributor problem though. I'm going with MAP, TPS, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxirex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He isn't throwing any other code's though. So why would it be electrical? That would make no since. Maybe his grounds are bad, but not off. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually it would make sense because it had happend to me before.. When I swapped a new motor into my crx I forgot to hookup the ground strap to the tranny which made the car start but didnt have a good connection because the current was finding another path(shifter, throttle cable, clutch cable, ect).. Also I was throwing an o2 sensor code while I was driving and the car would bogg alot..

Current would find the path of least resistance and could mess with 1 sensor and not all of them.. Im my case none of the sensors were bad and I didnt get any other codes except o2 sensor..

 

i have the same problem with my sohc zc and same code1. replaced the 02 sensor, still same code. checked in the manual. try changing your fuel pressure regulator. here's the trouble shooting steps for code 1.

LED Code 1 - o2 sensor code.
Turn the ignition switch OFF
Remove HAZARD fuse in the main fuse box for 10 secs. to reset ECU.
Inspect fuel pressure regulator.

Is it normal?
NO: Replace the pressure regulator.

YES: Warm up engine to normal operating temp. (fan comes on)
Hold engine at 1500 rpm for 15 minutes. NOTEDo not close throttle completely during this time.)

Is Check Engine warning light on? Does it indicate Code 1?
NO: Intermittent failure (test drive may be necessary)

YES: Disconnect engine wire harness from O2 sensor.
Warm up engine to normal operating temperature again, then open the throttle wide open then close it.

Measure voltage between the connector terminal and body ground.

Is voltage above 0.6 during wide open acceleration? Is voltage below 0.4 during closed throttle deceleration from 5000 rpm?

NO: Replace O2 sensor.

YES: Stop engine.
Connect the PGM-FI test harness between the ECU and connector.

Restart and warm up engine to normal operating temperature, then open the throttle wide open then close it.

Measure voltage between C16[+] and A18[-] terminals.

Is voltage above 0.6V during wide open acceleration? Is voltage below 0.4V during closed throttle deceleration from 5000 rpm?

NO: Repair short or open in WHT wire between ECU (C16) and O2 sensor.

YES: Subsitute a known-good ECU and recheck. If symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECU.

*whew* yeah i know, i could've just scanned it but i just felt like typing.